Gorges · Kyoto
Hozu Gorge
保津峡ほづきょうHozukyōRapids and forest on the doorstep of Kyoto
Hozu Gorge (Hozukyō) is the forested gorge of the Hozu River between the Kameoka basin and Arashiyama on the western edge of Kyoto. Traditional wooden boats shoot its rapids on a 16-kilometre run, and the Sagano scenic railway follows the old line along its bank.
Overview
The Hozu River is the name given to the Katsura River where it breaks through the hills between the Kameoka basin and the Kyoto basin. For about 16 kilometres it winds through a steep, wooded gorge with rapids, pools and rock walls before emerging at Arashiyama, where it becomes the Ōi River below the Togetsukyō bridge.
The gorge has been a transport route since 1606, when the merchant Suminokura Ryōi cleared rocks from the riverbed to float timber, rice and firewood from the Tamba region to Kyoto. Cargo boats gave way to sightseeing boats in the 20th century, and the boat ride, steered by three boatmen with poles and oars, is one of the classic excursions from Kyoto.
The old San'in Main Line once followed the river closely. When a new line with long tunnels opened in 1989, the old track was turned into the Sagano Scenic Railway, whose open carriages run slowly along the gorge.
Landscape and formation
The river has cut its gorge through hard chert and sandstone of the Tamba Belt, rocks formed from ocean-floor sediments scraped onto the edge of Asia in the Jurassic. As the Kyoto region was uplifted, the river kept its meandering course, entrenching its bends deep into the hills. Large boulders and rock ledges create a series of rapids along the route.
Highlights
Hozugawa boat ride
保津川下りHozugawa-kudariTraditional wooden boats that carry passengers down the gorge from Kameoka to Arashiyama in about two hours.
Sagano Scenic Railway
嵯峨野トロッコ列車Sagano Torokko ResshaOpen-carriage train on the former San'in line between Saga-Arashiyama and Kameoka.
Hozukyō Station
保津峡駅Hozukyō-ekiJR station on a bridge between two tunnels high above the gorge.
- 渡月橋Togetsukyō
The famous bridge where the gorge opens out into the Kyoto basin.
Ecology
Mixed forest of pine, cedar and maples covers the slopes, with cherry blossom in spring and colour in autumn. Grey herons and cormorants fish in the pools, and wild monkeys live in the hills above Arashiyama.
Flora
Maples and mountain cherries
Scattered through the forest, flowering in April and colouring in November.
Fauna
Kajika frog
カジカガエルkajika-gaeruStream frog whose clear call has been admired in Japanese poetry since ancient times.
Grey heron
Common on rocks along the river.
Culture
Suminokura Ryōi's opening of the river in the early 17th century was a milestone of Japanese civil engineering, and he went on to open the Takase River canal in Kyoto. Arashiyama at the gorge's mouth has been a place of aristocratic leisure since the Heian period, famed for cherry blossom, autumn leaves and cormorant fishing.
Suminokura Ryōi
角倉了以Suminokura RyōiKyoto merchant and engineer who made the Hozu River navigable in 1606.
Arashiyama cormorant fishing
嵐山の鵜飼Arashiyama no ukaiSummer-evening fishing with trained cormorants, watched from boats below the gorge.
History
1606
Suminokura Ryōi opens the Hozu River to navigation.
1899
The railway along the gorge opens, later part of the San'in Main Line.
1989
The San'in Line moves to a new tunnel route; the old riverside track is abandoned.
1991
The Sagano Scenic Railway begins running on the old line.
Through the seasons
Spring
Mountain cherries in the gorge and Arashiyama's cherry blossom in early April.
Summer
High water brings livelier rapids; cormorant fishing at Arashiyama.
Autumn
Maples colour the gorge in mid- to late November, the busiest season.
Winter
Boats with heating run in the cold months; the gorge is quiet.
Routes and trails
Boat ride from Kameoka
Two-hour descent of about 16 km through rapids to Arashiyama; boats are suspended in high water.
Sagano Scenic Railway
About 25 minutes along the gorge between Saga-Arashiyama and Kameoka; many combine the train up with the boat down.
Hozukyō riverside walk
Trails from Hozukyō Station follow parts of the river and lead to the village of Mizuo.
Practical notes
- Kameoka is about 20 minutes by JR Sagano Line from Kyoto Station; the boat landing is a short walk or bus ride from Kameoka Station.
- Boats and scenic trains are very popular in autumn and cherry-blossom season; reservations may be needed.
- The boat ride can be wet at the rapids; waterproof bags help.
Frequently asked questions
How long is the Hozu River boat ride?
About two hours for the 16 km from Kameoka to Arashiyama, depending on water level.
How do you get to Hozu Gorge from Kyoto?
Take the JR Sagano Line to Kameoka for the boat, or the Sagano Scenic Railway from Saga-Arashiyama.
Is the Hozu River boat ride dangerous?
It is run by experienced boatmen and suspended in high water; the rapids are exciting but modest.
When is the best time for Hozu Gorge?
Mid- to late November for autumn colour, or early April for cherry blossom.