Iki

壱岐いきIki

A small island of ancient kingdoms, shrines and shōchū

Iki is a low-lying island in the Genkai Sea between Kyushu and Tsushima, part of Nagasaki Prefecture. Once the seat of a kingdom recorded in 3rd-century Chinese chronicles, it is known today for its many shrines, white beaches, Iki beef and as the birthplace of barley shōchū.

Elevation: 213 mQuasi-national park · 1968

Overview

Iki lies about 20 kilometres off the north coast of Kyushu, roughly halfway between Fukuoka and Tsushima. Unlike rugged Tsushima, it is a gently rolling island of rice fields, pastures and small harbours, with the second-largest plain in Nagasaki Prefecture.

The Chinese Wei Zhi describes the 'country of Iki' (Ikikoku) on the route from Korea to Japan in the 3rd century, and the moated settlement of Harunotsuji is identified as its capital. The island's position also made it a victim of the Mongol invasions of 1274 and 1281.

Iki claims more than a hundred shrines for its small area, including twenty-four listed in the 10th-century Engishiki. It is also the home of barley shōchū, protected as a geographical indication, and of high-quality wagyu raised on its pastures.

Landscape and formation

The island is a lava plateau built by basaltic volcanism several million years ago, eroded into low hills with a highest point of only 213 metres. The coast alternates between white-sand beaches, such as Tsutsukihama, and basalt cliffs and sea stacks like Saruiwa, the 'monkey rock'.

Highlights

Harunotsuji site
原の辻遺跡Harunotsuji iseki
Moated Yayoi-period settlement identified as the capital of the kingdom of Iki, a Special Historic Site.
Saruiwa
猿岩Saruiwa
Basalt sea stack about 45 m high shaped like a monkey in profile.
Kojima Shrine
小島神社Kojima Jinja
Shrine on an islet in Uchiumi Bay reached on foot only at low tide.
Tatsunoshima
辰の島Tatsunoshima
Uninhabited island off the north coast with cliffs and a clear-water beach, reached by boat in summer.

Ecology

Most of Iki is farmland and secondary woodland. The surrounding sea, fed by the Tsushima Current, is rich in fish, squid and sea urchin, and the coastal cliffs host seabirds.

Flora

Coastal vegetation
Pine and evergreen broadleaf trees on headlands and around shrines.

Fauna

Sea urchin
ウニuni
Harvested by divers in summer, a local speciality.

Culture

Iki kagura, a shrine dance tradition, is an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property. Barley shōchū has been distilled here since around the 16th century and received geographical-indication protection in 1995. Local food includes Iki beef and sea urchin.

Iki shōchū
壱岐焼酎Iki shōchū
Barley shōchū made with rice kōji, regarded as the origin of barley shōchū.
Iki kagura
壱岐神楽Iki kagura
Ritual shrine dances performed by the island's priests.

History

3rd century
The Wei Zhi records the 'country of Iki' on the sea route to Wa.
1274
Mongol forces overrun Iki during the first invasion.
1281
Iki is attacked again in the second invasion.
1968
Iki-Tsushima Quasi-National Park is designated.
1995
Iki shōchū receives geographical-indication status.
2000
Harunotsuji is designated a Special Historic Site.

Through the seasons

Spring

Rapeseed and cherry blossom; mild weather for cycling.

Summer

Beach season at Tsutsukihama and boat trips to Tatsunoshima.

Autumn

Harvest season and clear sea for kayaking.

Winter

Strong north-westerly winds; seafood and hot shōchū.

Routes and trails

Island cycling
Quiet lanes link beaches, shrines and Harunotsuji; the island can be circled in a day.
Kojima Shrine at low tide
Short walk across the tidal flat, timed with the tide table.
Tatsunoshima boat trip
Summer excursion boats from Katsumoto circle the island's cliffs.

Practical notes

Jetfoils from Hakata port reach Iki in about an hour; car ferries run from Hakata and Karatsu, and there are flights from Nagasaki.
Rental cars or bicycles are the practical way to get around.
Kojima Shrine is sacred; visitors are asked not to remove stones or branches.

Frequently asked questions

How do you get to Iki?

By jetfoil from Hakata port in Fukuoka in about an hour, by ferry from Hakata or Karatsu, or by air from Nagasaki.

What is Iki known for?

Its many shrines, the ancient Harunotsuji site, beaches, Iki beef and as the birthplace of barley shōchū.

Can Iki and Tsushima be visited together?

Yes. Ferries and jetfoils from Hakata to Tsushima often call at Iki.

Which prefecture does Iki belong to?

Nagasaki, though it is closer to Fukuoka and Saga.