Mount Hiei
比叡山ひえいざんHiei-zanThe mountain monastery north-east of Kyoto, cradle of Japanese Buddhism.
Mount Hiei (比叡山), 848 m, rises between Kyoto and Lake Biwa on the border of Kyoto and Shiga prefectures. Its temple complex Enryaku-ji, founded by the monk Saichō in 788 and head temple of Tendai Buddhism, trained the founders of most later Japanese Buddhist schools and is part of the Kyoto World Heritage site.
Overview
Mount Hiei stands north-east of Kyoto, the direction from which, in Chinese and Japanese geomancy, evil influences were thought to come. When the capital moved to Heian-kyō in 794, the monastery on the mountain, founded by Saichō in 788, became its spiritual guardian. Enryaku-ji grew into a vast complex of several thousand monks with hundreds of buildings, and a political and military power in its own right.
Most of the founders of later Japanese Buddhist schools – Hōnen, Shinran, Eisai, Dōgen and Nichiren – studied on Hiei, which is why it is called the "mother mountain" of Japanese Buddhism. Today its halls stand among cedar forest on the ridge, with views over Lake Biwa on one side and Kyoto on the other.
Landscape and formation
Mount Hiei is part of the Hira and Higashiyama hills, formed of Mesozoic sedimentary rocks with a granite body on the Kyoto side. The mountain rises steeply from the Kyoto basin and the shore of Lake Biwa along active faults. Its highest point, Ōhiei (848 m), lies on the Shiga side; Shimeigatake (838 m) is the viewpoint above Kyoto.
Highlights
Konpon Chūdō
根本中堂Konpon ChūdōThe main hall of Enryaku-ji, a national treasure rebuilt in 1642, where the "eternal flame" lit by Saichō is said to have burned for over 1,200 years.
Saitō
西塔SaitōThe western area with the Shaka-dō, the oldest building on the mountain, moved here from Mii-dera.
Yokawa
横川YokawaThe quiet northern area associated with Ennin and with Genshin, author of the Ōjōyōshū.
Shimeigatake
四明ヶ岳Shimeigatake838 m, the peak above Kyoto with views over the city.
Ecology
Centuries of temple protection have preserved forests of Japanese cedar, cypress and broadleaf trees. They form a green belt between Kyoto and Ōtsu and are home to Japanese macaques and sika deer.
Flora
Japanese cedar
スギsugiTall temple cedars line the paths between the halls.
Momiji
モミジmomijiMaples colour the approaches in November.
Fauna
Japanese macaque
ニホンザルnihonzaruTroops live in the forests and are regarded as messengers of Hiyoshi Taisha's deity.
Sika deer
ニホンジカnihonjikaCommon in the mountain forests.
Culture
Saichō (Dengyō Daishi) built a small hall on Hiei in 788 and, after studying in Tang China, founded the Tendai school. His successors Ennin and Enchin brought esoteric Buddhism, and the mountain became the leading centre of learning in Japan. Its warrior monks (sōhei) repeatedly marched on the capital. In 1571 Oda Nobunaga burned the complex; it was rebuilt under the Tokugawa. At the eastern foot, Hiyoshi Taisha in Sakamoto is the guardian shrine of the mountain, and Sakamoto's stone walls were built by the Anō masons.
- 延暦寺Enryaku-ji
Head temple of the Tendai school, a component of the Kyoto World Heritage site.
Hiyoshi Taisha
日吉大社Hiyoshi TaishaThe guardian shrine at the Shiga foot, head of the Sannō shrines across Japan.
Sakamoto
坂本SakamotoThe temple town at the eastern foot, known for its Anō-zumi stone walls and the monks' residences (satobō).
History
788
Saichō founds the Ichijō Shikan-in, the origin of Enryaku-ji.
794
The capital moves to Heian-kyō; Hiei becomes its north-eastern guardian.
806
The Tendai school is officially recognised.
1571
Oda Nobunaga burns Enryaku-ji.
1642
The Konpon Chūdō is rebuilt under the third Tokugawa shogun, Iemitsu.
1994
Enryaku-ji is inscribed as part of the Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto.
Through the seasons
Spring
Cherry blossoms in April, later than in the city below.
Summer
Cooler than Kyoto; the forest paths are shaded.
Autumn
Maples colour the temple precincts in early to mid-November.
Winter
Snow often covers the summit while the city stays clear; the cable cars run with reduced service or close in the depth of winter.
Routes and trails
Kirara-zaka from Shūgakuin
The old monks' path from north-east Kyoto up to the ropeway station and Enryaku-ji, about 2–2.5 hours; moderate.
Hon-zaka from Sakamoto
The main historic approach from Sakamoto on the Shiga side to the Tōdō area, about 1.5 hours; steady climb on stone steps.
Tōdō – Saitō – Yokawa
A forest walk linking the three temple areas, about 2–3 hours in total.
Practical notes
- Enryaku-ji is an active monastery; respect ceremonies and photography restrictions inside halls.
- Cable car and ropeway services are seasonal in winter; check operators before visiting.
- Monkeys are present; do not feed them or carry food openly.
Frequently asked questions
How is Mount Hiei reached?
From Kyoto by the Eizan Railway to Yase, then the Eizan Cable Car and ropeway; from Shiga by the Sakamoto Cable Car, the longest cable railway in Japan, from Sakamoto near Ōtsu. Buses also run over the Hieizan Driveway.
What are the three areas of Enryaku-ji?
Tōdō (the eastern pagoda area with the Konpon Chūdō main hall), Saitō (the western area with the Shaka-dō) and Yokawa in the north. They are linked by walking paths and a shuttle bus.
What is the kaihōgyō?
The "circling the mountain" practice in which Tendai monks walk long daily circuits over the mountain for up to a thousand days spread over seven years. Only a small number have completed it in the modern era.
Why did Oda Nobunaga burn Mount Hiei?
In 1571 Nobunaga destroyed Enryaku-ji and killed thousands because its warrior monks had sided with his enemies; the buildings seen today were largely rebuilt in the Edo period.
Related
Sources
- 1.日本の主な山岳標高 (opens in a new tab) — 国土地理院 (Geospatial Information Authority of Japan)
- 2.Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto (Kyoto, Uji and Otsu Cities) (opens in a new tab) — UNESCO World Heritage Centre
- 3.滋賀県ホームページ (opens in a new tab) — 滋賀県 (Shiga Prefecture)
- 4.京都府ホームページ (opens in a new tab) — 京都府 (Kyoto Prefecture)