Okuhotaka-dake
奥穂高岳おくほたかだけOkuhotaka-dakeHighest peak of the Northern Alps, above the Karasawa cirque and Kamikōchi.
Okuhotaka-dake (奥穂高岳) is the highest peak of the Hotaka range and of the Northern Alps at 3,190 m, joint third-highest in Japan, on the border of Nagano and Gifu prefectures. Its granite ridges enclose the Karasawa cirque above Kamikōchi, the heart of Japanese alpinism.
Overview
The Hotaka range forms a jagged horseshoe of peaks above the upper Azusa river: Okuhotaka-dake, Karasawa-dake, Kitahotaka-dake, Maehotaka-dake and Nishihotaka-dake. Okuhotaka-dake, at 3,190 m, is the highest, and from its summit the whole Northern Alps unfold, with Yari-ga-take's spire to the north and Fuji on the horizon.
For Japanese mountaineers the Hotaka range is the classic alpine arena: the Karasawa cirque with its hut and tent village, the rock walls of Takidani on the Gifu side, and the Daikiretto gap towards Yari-ga-take. Most visitors, however, see the peaks from below, from the Kappa-bashi bridge in Kamikōchi, where the range is reflected in the Azusa river.
Landscape and formation
The Hotaka peaks are formed largely of welded tuff and granite porphyry from an enormous caldera eruption about 1.75 million years ago, later uplifted and deeply eroded; the neighbouring Takidani granite is among the youngest exposed granites in the world. Glaciers of the last ice age sculpted the Karasawa cirque, whose moraines are still clearly visible.
Below, the Azusa river valley was dammed in prehistoric times by eruptions of nearby Yake-dake, creating the flat basin of Kamikōchi and later the pond of Taishō-ike, formed by a mudflow in 1915.
Highlights
Karasawa cirque
涸沢カールKarasawa kāruA glacial cirque at about 2,300 m, with two huts and a large tent site; famous for autumn colours framed by the Hotaka walls.
Jandarumu
ジャンダルムJandarumuA rock tower on the ridge to Nishihotaka-dake, crossed on one of the most exposed routes in Japan.
- 大キレットDaikiretto
The deep notch between Kitahotaka-dake and Minamidake on the way to Yari-ga-take, a demanding scramble.
Kamikōchi
上高地KamikōchiThe valley basin at about 1,500 m from which almost all ascents begin, a special place of scenic beauty and special natural monument.
Ecology
The walk from Kamikōchi passes riverine forest of willow, larch and Japanese elm, then fir and birch, before the dwarf-pine and rock zone of the upper cirque. Snowfields persist in Karasawa into summer and support late-flowering meadows.
Flora
Katsura and elm forest
ハルニレharunireOld Japanese elms and willows line the Azusa river in Kamikōchi.
Siberian dwarf pine
ハイマツhaimatsuCarpets the ridges and moraines above the treeline.
Rowan and maples
ナナカマドnanakamadoTheir red autumn leaves create Karasawa's celebrated colours.
Fauna
Rock ptarmigan
ライチョウraichōA special natural monument, seen on the high ridges, especially in poor weather.
Japanese macaque
ニホンザルnihonzaruTroops forage in the Kamikōchi valley year-round.
Stoat
オコジョokojoLives among the boulders of the cirque.
Culture
The name Hotaka is linked to the Azumi clan and the deity Hotakami-no-kami, venerated at Hotaka Jinja in Azumino, whose inner shrine stands at Myōjin-ike in Kamikōchi and whose summit shrine sits on Okuhotaka-dake. Modern mountaineering in Japan grew up in these valleys: the English missionary Walter Weston explored the Northern Alps in the 1890s, and local guides such as Kamijō Kamonji led early parties. Japanese climbers opened the great routes on Takidani and the Byōbu-iwa walls in the twentieth century.
Hotaka Jinja Okumiya
穂高神社奥宮Hotaka Jinja OkumiyaThe inner shrine beside Myōjin-ike pond in Kamikōchi; a boat festival is held on the pond each October.
Hotakadake-sansō
穂高岳山荘Hotakadake-sansōThe hut in the Shirodashi col below the summit, base for Okuhotaka and the surrounding ridges.
Weston relief
A memorial relief to Walter Weston beside the Azusa river in Kamikōchi, focus of the Weston Festival that opens the summer season.
History
1890s
Walter Weston climbs in the Northern Alps and later introduces them to the West as the "Japanese Alps".
1915
An eruption of Yake-dake dams the Azusa river and forms Taishō-ike in Kamikōchi.
1934
Chūbu-Sangaku National Park is designated, one of the first national parks in Japan.
1952
Kamikōchi is designated a special place of scenic beauty and special natural monument.
Through the seasons
Spring
Kamikōchi opens to buses in late April; the peaks remain under deep snow and are for experienced alpinists only.
Summer
July and August are the main climbing season; snowfields linger in Karasawa and thunderstorms are common in the afternoon.
Autumn
Karasawa's autumn colours peak around late September to early October; snow can fall on the ridges from October.
Winter
Kamikōchi closes to traffic from mid-November; winter ascents are serious alpine expeditions with high avalanche risk.
Routes and trails
Kamikōchi – Karasawa – Okuhotaka-dake
The standard route: about 6 hours along the Azusa river and up to Karasawa, then 3 hours via the Zaitengoya slope to the Hotakadake-sansō and the summit. Usually two days; steep rock with ladders and chains near the top.
Dake-sawa route
A direct, steep ascent from Kamikōchi via Maehotaka-dake, about 7–8 hours; strenuous and rocky.
Nishihotaka ridge
From Nishihotaka-sansō (reached from Shinhotaka ropeway) over the Jandarumu to Okuhotaka: one of the most difficult general routes in Japan, for experienced scramblers only.
Daikiretto traverse
From Yari-ga-take south via the Daikiretto and Kitahotaka-dake, a multi-day exposed ridge route demanding sure footing.
Practical notes
- Kamikōchi is closed to private cars; buses and taxis run from Sawando (Nagano side) and Hirayu (Gifu side). It is reached from Matsumoto or Takayama in about one and a half hours.
- Helmets are strongly recommended on the Hotaka ridges; rockfall and falls cause accidents every season.
- Huts are crowded at weekends in summer and during the autumn-colour season; reserve in advance.
- Kamikōchi is open roughly from late April to mid-November; check the official Kamikōchi and Nagano Prefecture sites for current dates and access rules.
Frequently asked questions
How high is Okuhotaka-dake?
It rises to 3,190 m, the highest point of the Northern Alps and third in Japan jointly with Aino-dake in the Southern Alps, after Fuji and Kita-dake.
Can a beginner climb Okuhotaka-dake?
The ordinary route from Kamikōchi via Karasawa is a long, strenuous two-day trip ending in steep rock with ladders and chains. It suits fit hikers with some mountain experience; the ridges to Nishihotaka and Maehotaka are for experienced scramblers only.
What is Hotaka-dake in the 100 Famous Mountains?
Fukada Kyūya listed the whole Hotaka range as Hotaka-dake; Okuhotaka-dake is its highest summit.
When is the best time to visit Karasawa?
Autumn colours in the cirque peak around late September to early October, when the huts are very busy; July brings snowfields and flowers.
Related
Sources
- 1.日本の主な山岳標高 (opens in a new tab) — 国土地理院 (Geospatial Information Authority of Japan)
- 2.中部山岳国立公園 (opens in a new tab) — 環境省 (Ministry of the Environment)
- 3.長野県公式ホームページ (opens in a new tab) — 長野県 (Nagano Prefecture)
- 4.岐阜県公式ホームページ (opens in a new tab) — 岐阜県 (Gifu Prefecture)