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National Parks · Nagasaki, Kumamoto, Kagoshima

Unzen-Amakusa National Park

雲仙天草国立公園うんぜんあまくさこくりつこうえんUnzen-Amakusa Kokuritsu Kōen

A living volcano, hot-spring hells and the islands of Amakusa

Unzen-Amakusa National Park combines the volcanic massif of Unzen on the Shimabara Peninsula with the islands of Amakusa across the water. Unzen was designated on 16 March 1934 as one of Japan's first three national parks, and Amakusa was added in 1956.

Elevation: 1,483 mArea: 283.55 km²Active volcanoNational park · 1934Japanese Geopark · 2008UNESCO Global Geopark · 2009

Overview

Unzen-Amakusa National Park has two faces. On the Shimabara Peninsula east of Nagasaki rises Unzen, a cluster of volcanic peaks with fuming vents, hot springs and the Heisei Shinzan lava dome, born in the eruption of 1990–1995. To the south, across the Hayasaki Strait, lie the islands of Amakusa, a coastal landscape of islets, cliffs and bays in Kumamoto Prefecture, with a small part in northern Kagoshima.

On 16 March 1934 Unzen became, together with Setonaikai and Kirishima, one of Japan's first three national parks; it is traditionally listed first. Its hot-spring resort had already attracted Westerners from Shanghai and Hong Kong in the late 19th century, and it became Japan's first prefectural park in 1911. Amakusa was added in 1956, and the park took its present name.

The region is also marked by history: both Unzen and Amakusa were centres of early Christianity in Japan and of the persecution and rebellion that followed, and the Shimabara Peninsula was among the first UNESCO Global Geoparks in Japan.

Landscape and formation

Unzen is a composite volcano built on a graben, a sinking block between faults that cuts across the Shimabara Peninsula. Its main peak, Fugendake (1,359 m), was overtopped by Heisei Shinzan (1,483 m), a lava dome that grew between 1990 and 1995 and repeatedly collapsed into pyroclastic flows. In 1792 an earthquake triggered the collapse of Mayuyama above Shimabara; the landslide and the tsunami it caused across the Ariake Sea killed some 15,000 people, remembered as 'Shimabara taihen, Higo meiwaku'.

Unzen Jigoku, the 'hells' above the hot-spring village, are fields of steam vents, boiling pools and sulphur deposits. Amakusa, by contrast, is built of sedimentary rocks, including Cretaceous and Palaeogene strata rich in fossils, cut by the sea into a drowned coastline with some 120 islands; the western coast of Amakusa-shimoshima faces the East China Sea with high cliffs.

Highlights

  • Unzen and Heisei Shinzan

    雲仙岳Unzen-dake

    The volcanic massif with Fugendake and the lava dome Heisei Shinzan, the highest point of Nagasaki Prefecture.

  • Unzen Jigoku

    雲仙地獄Unzen Jigoku

    Steaming fumaroles and boiling pools in the heart of Unzen Onsen, laid out with walking paths.

  • Nita Pass

    仁田峠Nita-tōge

    A pass reached by road and the start of the ropeway towards Myōkendake, with views of Heisei Shinzan.

  • Amakusa Matsushima

    天草松島Amakusa Matsushima

    Pine-clad islets between Kamiamakusa and the Amakusa Five Bridges, seen from the viewpoint of Senkan-yama.

  • Myōkenura

    妙見浦Myōkenura

    Sea cliffs, caves and arches on the western coast of Amakusa-shimoshima.

Nature

Ecology

Unzen's slopes carry a sequence from evergreen forest to deciduous woodland and scrub, famous for mountain azaleas in late spring and for rime ice in winter. The bare surfaces left by the 1990s eruption are being recolonised, offering a natural laboratory of plant succession. Around Amakusa, rich coastal waters support a resident population of dolphins.

Flora

  • Miyama kirishima azalea

    ミヤマキリシマmiyama kirishima

    A dwarf mountain azalea of Kyushu's volcanoes that colours Unzen pink in late May; known locally as Unzen tsutsuji.

  • Rime ice

    霧氷muhyō

    Frost crystals coat the trees of the upper slopes on cold winter days, locally called kōri no hana, 'ice flowers'.

  • Japanese black pine

    クロマツkuromatsu

    The tree of the Amakusa islets and coast.

Fauna

  • Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphin

    ミナミハンドウイルカminami handō iruka

    A resident group lives off Itsuwa in northern Amakusa and is watched from boats.

  • Finless porpoise

    スナメリsunameri

    Lives in the shallow Ariake Sea and Tachibana Bay around the Shimabara Peninsula.

Culture

In the 16th century the Shimabara Peninsula and Amakusa were among the most Christian regions of Japan, with a Jesuit college at Amakusa. After Christianity was banned, believers were tortured and executed in the boiling springs of Unzen Jigoku in the late 1620s and early 1630s. Heavy taxation and persecution led to the Shimabara-Amakusa Rebellion of 1637–1638, led by the young Amakusa Shirō, which ended in the massacre at Hara Castle.

In the Meiji era, Unzen Onsen became an international summer resort for foreigners from treaty ports and colonial cities in East Asia. The 1990s eruption, which killed 43 people on 3 June 1991, including the volcanologists Katia and Maurice Krafft and Harry Glicken, made Unzen a centre of volcanic disaster education.

  • Sakitsu village

    﨑津集落Sakitsu Shūraku

    A fishing village of Amakusa where Hidden Christians kept their faith; a component of the World Heritage property.

  • Unzen Disaster Memorial Hall

    雲仙岳災害記念館Unzen-dake Saigai Kinenkan

    A museum in Shimabara on the eruption of 1990–1995 and on living with a volcano.

  • Amakusa Five Bridges

    天草五橋Amakusa Gokyō

    Five bridges opened in 1966 linking the Uto Peninsula with the Amakusa islands.

  • Unzen martyrs' memorial

    雲仙殉教記念碑Unzen Junkyō Kinenhi

    A monument at Unzen Jigoku to the Christians executed in its springs.

History

  1. 1627–1632

    Christians are tortured and executed in the hot springs of Unzen Jigoku.

  2. 1637–1638

    The Shimabara-Amakusa Rebellion under Amakusa Shirō is crushed at Hara Castle.

  3. 1792

    The collapse of Mayuyama and the resulting tsunami kill some 15,000 people around the Ariake Sea.

  4. 1911

    Unzen becomes Japan's first prefectural park.

  5. 1934

    Unzen is designated one of the first three national parks on 16 March.

  6. 1956

    Amakusa is added and the park is renamed Unzen-Amakusa.

  7. 1990–1995

    Eruption of Unzen; pyroclastic flows on 3 June 1991 kill 43 people; the lava dome Heisei Shinzan forms.

  8. 2009

    The Shimabara Peninsula joins the Global Geoparks Network, later a UNESCO Global Geopark.

Through the seasons

Spring

Miyama kirishima azaleas bloom pink on Nita Pass and the upper slopes in late May.

Summer

A cool retreat above the heat of the plains, as it was for early foreign visitors; beaches and dolphin-watching in Amakusa.

Autumn

Maple and oak colour on Unzen from late October to early November.

Winter

Rime ice decorates the trees near the summits; hot springs are at their most appealing.

Routes and trails

  • Fugendake loop from Nita Pass

    A half-day circuit by ropeway or on foot via Myōkendake to Fugendake, with close views of Heisei Shinzan; the dome itself is off-limits.

  • Unzen Jigoku walk

    Paths lead through the steaming vents above the hot-spring village.

  • Amakusa coastal drive

    The road from the Amakusa Five Bridges along the islands to Sakitsu and the western cliffs.

  • Dolphin watching off Itsuwa

    Boat trips from Itsuwa to the resident dolphin group, generally year-round.

Practical notes

  • Unzen Onsen is reached by bus from Isahaya or Shimabara; ferries cross from Shimabara to Kumamoto and from Kuchinotsu to Amakusa.
  • Heisei Shinzan and the area around it are closed to entry; volcanic warnings are issued by the Japan Meteorological Agency.
  • Volcanic gases occur at Unzen Jigoku; keep to the paths.
  • Amakusa is spread over many islands; a car is the most practical way to explore.

Frequently asked questions

Which was Japan's first national park?

Unzen, Setonaikai and Kirishima were designated on the same day, 16 March 1934. Unzen is traditionally listed first.

Is Unzen still active?

Yes. Unzen is an active volcano monitored by the Japan Meteorological Agency; its last eruption, from 1990 to 1995, formed Heisei Shinzan.

What happened at Unzen on 3 June 1991?

A pyroclastic flow from the growing lava dome swept down the Mizunashi valley and killed 43 people, including journalists, firefighters and three volcanologists.

What is Unzen Jigoku?

A field of steam vents and boiling pools above Unzen Onsen, named 'hell' for its sulphurous heat; Christians were martyred there in the 17th century.

Is Amakusa part of the park?

Yes, Amakusa's coasts and islands were added in 1956, when the park was renamed Unzen-Amakusa.

Sources

  1. 1.環境省_雲仙天草国立公園 (opens in a new tab) — 環境省 (Ministry of the Environment)
  2. 2.環境省_国立公園_国立公園一覧 (opens in a new tab) — 環境省 (Ministry of the Environment)
  3. 3.全国の活火山 (opens in a new tab) — 気象庁 (Japan Meteorological Agency)
  4. 4.日本ジオパークネットワーク (opens in a new tab) — 日本ジオパークネットワーク (Japanese Geoparks Network)

Editorial team · Published: