Noboribetsu

登別市のぼりべつしNoboribetsu-shi

Hell Valley, sulphur springs and the demons of Hokkaido's great onsen

Noboribetsu is a city on Hokkaido's Pacific coast whose hot-spring resort, Noboribetsu Onsen, is the best known on the island; its springs rise from Jigokudani ('Hell Valley'), a steaming volcanic crater inside Shikotsu-Tōya National Park, and supply waters of many different chemical types.

Overview

Noboribetsu stretches from the Pacific shore of Iburi, between Muroran and Shiraoi, into the volcanic hills of the Kuttara volcano. The coastal part is a residential and industrial town; the fame lies inland, where Noboribetsu Onsen occupies a narrow valley below Jigokudani, an explosion crater about 450 metres across whose fumaroles, boiling pools and yellow-grey sulphur deposits give it its name, Hell Valley. The crater and the surrounding forests belong to Shikotsu-Tōya National Park.

The springs are unusually varied: around nine types of water – sulphur, salt, iron, alum and others – are drawn from the valley and piped to the hotels, and large amounts of hot water flow each day. Above the crater lies Ōyunuma, a steaming lake of grey hot water whose outflow forms a warm stream where visitors bathe their feet in the forest. Further up, the round caldera lake Kuttara is noted for the clarity of its water.

The name comes from the Ainu nupur-pet, 'turbid river', after the milky water of the springs. The resort has embraced its infernal theme: statues of oni (demons) greet visitors, a figure of Enma, the king of hell, changes his face at set times in the main street, and the summer Jigoku Matsuri brings a parade of demons.

Landmarks

Jigokudani
地獄谷Jigokudani
Explosion crater of fumaroles and boiling springs, crossed by boardwalks; the source of the resort's water and its emblem.
Ōyunuma
大湯沼Ōyunuma
Lake of grey, steaming hot water on the flank of the Hiyoriyama lava dome.
Ōyunuma River natural footbath
大湯沼川天然足湯Ōyunumagawa Tennen Ashiyu
A warm stream in the forest below Ōyunuma where visitors can sit on the bank and soak their feet.
Lake Kuttara
倶多楽湖Kuttara-ko
Almost circular caldera lake with no inflowing or outflowing river, noted for its clear water.
Hiyoriyama
日和山Hiyoriyama
Lava dome with a constantly steaming summit, overlooking Ōyunuma.
Enma-dō
閻魔堂Enma-dō
Shrine-like hall on the main street whose figure of Enma, king of hell, turns from calm to furious at set times of day.
Date Jidaimura
登別伊達時代村Noboribetsu Date Jidaimura
Theme park recreating an Edo-period town with ninja and samurai shows.

Districts

Noboribetsu Onsen
登別温泉Noboribetsu Onsen
The hot-spring resort in the valley below Jigokudani, with large hotels and the Gokuraku-dōri main street.
Karurusu Onsen
カルルス温泉Karurusu Onsen
A small, quiet spa further up the valley, named after Karlsbad (Karlovy Vary) in Bohemia.
Noboribetsu town (coast)
登別駅周辺Noboribetsu Eki Shūhen
Coastal area around JR Noboribetsu Station with the Noboribetsu Marine Park Nixe aquarium.
Horobetsu
幌別Horobetsu
The administrative and residential centre of the city on the coast.

History

The hot springs were known to the Ainu, and Japanese travellers mentioned them in the Edo period. In 1858 Takimoto Kinzō, whose wife was treated at the springs, built an inn after a road had been improved, the start of the resort. In the Meiji era the spring was used to treat soldiers during the Russo-Japanese War, and a light railway was built from the coast.

The resort grew with rail and road access, and was selected among Japan's leading scenic places in 1927. The municipality became a city in 1970. The Date Jidaimura theme park, reconstructing an Edo-period town, opened in 1992.

1858
Takimoto Kinzō builds an inn at the springs, founding the resort.
1904–1905
Soldiers of the Russo-Japanese War are sent to Noboribetsu for recuperation.
1927
Noboribetsu Onsen is selected among Japan's leading scenic places.
1949
The Noboribetsu area is included in Shikotsu-Tōya National Park.
1970
Noboribetsu becomes a city.
1992
The Date Jidaimura Edo-period theme park opens.

Culture

Noboribetsu is a classic Japanese onsen resort: guests stay in ryokan and large hot-spring hotels, walk the streets in yukata and move between indoor and outdoor baths of different waters. Onsen etiquette applies – washing before entering the bath, no swimwear, and tattoo rules that vary between establishments. The demon theme, from the Enma statue to the oni mascots, is a playful local identity drawn from the Hell Valley.

Festivals

Noboribetsu Jigoku Matsuri
登別地獄まつりNoboribetsu Jigoku Matsuri
In late August, the gate of hell opens: a giant float of Enma and parades of demons and taiko drummers fill the onsen street.
Yu Matsuri
湯まつりYu Matsuri
In early February, men in loincloths douse each other with hot spring water to pray for the resort's prosperity, followed by fireworks.

Food

Onsen tamago
温泉卵onsen tamago
Eggs slow-cooked in hot spring water to a soft, silky texture.
Pacific seafood
海の幸umi no sachi
Crab, salmon, scallops and other catches from the Iburi coast served in ryokan dinners.
Local beer
地ビールji-bīru
Craft beers brewed in the onsen town with local spring water, named after its demon legends.
Kaiseki dinners
会席料理kaiseki ryōri
Multi-course ryokan meals with Hokkaido produce, a central part of an onsen stay.

Getting around

JR Noboribetsu Station on the Muroran Main Line is served by limited expresses between Sapporo and Hakodate; Sapporo is about an hour and a quarter away.
Buses run from Noboribetsu Station to Noboribetsu Onsen in about fifteen minutes, and direct buses link the onsen with New Chitose Airport in about an hour.
Jigokudani, Ōyunuma and the footbath are reached on foot from the onsen town by marked forest trails.

Day trips

Lake Tōya
Caldera lake and the active volcano Usu, about an hour by road to the west.
Lake Shikotsu
Deep caldera lake in the same national park, towards New Chitose Airport.
Sapporo
Hokkaido's capital, about an hour and a quarter by limited express.
Hakodate
Port city at the southern tip of Hokkaido, by limited express along the coast.

Other cities in the prefecture

CapitalSapporoSapporo-shiHokkaido's planned capital on the Ishikari Plain Core cityAsahikawaAsahikawa-shiRiver city of the Kamikawa Basin and gateway to Daisetsuzan CityFuranoFurano-shiLavender, patchwork hills and powder snow at the heart of Hokkaido Core cityHakodateHakodate-shiTreaty port between two bays at the foot of Mount Hakodate CityKushiroKushiro-shiFog, cranes and fish: the Pacific gateway to eastern Hokkaido TownNisekoNiseko-chōPowder snow, Mount Yotei and hot springs in south-western Hokkaido CityOtaruOtaru-shiHerring, coal and banks: the port that built Hokkaido's economy

Frequently asked questions

How long is needed for Noboribetsu?

One night is the classic stay: an afternoon walk through Jigokudani to Ōyunuma and the footbath, an evening and morning in the baths.

Can visitors bathe in Jigokudani itself?

No. The crater is too hot and acidic; its water is piped to the hotels and some day-use baths. The warm stream below Ōyunuma is the only place for a natural footbath.

Why are there demons everywhere in Noboribetsu?

The resort plays on the name of Jigokudani, 'Hell Valley'; oni are the guardians of hell in Japanese Buddhism, and Enma is its king.

Is Noboribetsu part of a national park?

Yes. The onsen area, Jigokudani and Lake Kuttara lie within Shikotsu-Tōya National Park.

Sources

1.登別市 (opens in a new tab) — 登別市 (Noboribetsu City)
2.令和2年国勢調査 (opens in a new tab) — 総務省統計局 (Statistics Bureau of Japan)
3.登別観光協会 (opens in a new tab) — 登別国際観光コンベンション協会
4.支笏洞爺国立公園 (opens in a new tab) — 環境省 (Ministry of the Environment)