Iwate · Capital · Core city
Morioka
盛岡市もりおかしMorioka-shiThe Nanbu castle town where three rivers meet below Mount Iwate
Morioka is the capital of Iwate Prefecture and the former castle town of the Nanbu clan, set where the Kitakami, Nakatsu and Shizukuishi rivers meet within sight of Mount Iwate. It is known for its compact historic centre, cast-iron Nanbu ironware and three local noodle dishes.
Overview
Morioka lies in the northern Kitakami basin at the confluence of the Kitakami, Nakatsu and Shizukuishi rivers, with the cone of Mount Iwate rising to the north-west. For almost three centuries it was the seat of the Nanbu clan, and the granite walls of their castle still stand in the middle of the city. Today it is the administrative, educational and commercial centre of Iwate and a Shinkansen junction where the Akita Shinkansen leaves the main Tohoku line.
The city is small enough to explore on foot. Merchant houses survive in the Kon'yacho area, the Nakatsu River runs clear enough through the centre for salmon to spawn in autumn, and Meiji and Taisho-era brick and stone buildings stand beside old sake breweries and ironware workshops. Morioka is closely tied to two writers who studied here, Ishikawa Takuboku and Miyazawa Kenji.
Landmarks
Morioka Castle Site Park (Iwate Park)
盛岡城跡公園Morioka-jō ato kōenThe high granite walls of the Nanbu castle survive in a park in the city centre, noted for cherry blossom and autumn colour.
Ishiwari-zakura
石割桜Ishiwari-zakuraA cherry tree several centuries old growing out of a split granite boulder in front of the district court, a national natural monument.
Former Iwate Bank Head Office
岩手銀行赤レンガ館Iwate Ginkō Aka-renga-kanA red-brick bank building of 1911 with a green dome by Tatsuno Kingo and Kasai Manji, an Important Cultural Property.
Morioka Hachimangu
盛岡八幡宮Morioka HachimangūThe main shrine of the city and destination of the Chagu Chagu Umakko horse procession and the autumn festival floats.
Hoon-ji
報恩寺Hōon-jiA Zen temple of the Nanbu clan with a hall of five hundred lacquered arhat statues carved in Kyoto in the 1730s.
Mitsuishi Shrine
三ツ石神社Mitsuishi-jinjaA small shrine around three large rocks linked to the legend of the demon's handprint behind the name Iwate.
Morioka Tezukuri Village
盛岡手づくり村Morioka Tezukuri-muraA crafts centre on the western edge of the city with workshops for ironware, dyeing, lacquer and Nanbu senbei, and preserved magariya farmhouses.
Districts
Kon'yacho
紺屋町Kon'yachōAn old merchant quarter on the Nakatsu River with a nineteenth-century fire watchtower, a basketware shop and ironware and textile stores.
Zaimokucho
材木町ZaimokuchōA shopping street near the Kitakami River associated with Miyazawa Kenji, home to the Kogensha publishing house that issued his first book of stories, and to a Saturday street market in the warmer months.
Odori and Saien
大通・菜園Ōdōri, SaienThe main shopping and dining district between the station and the castle park.
Nakanohashi-dori
中ノ橋通Nakanohashi-dōriThe historic centre east of the castle with the brick bank building, old storehouses and the bridges over the Nakatsu.
History
The area was known in early times as Kozukata. At the end of the sixteenth century Nanbu Nobunao, confirmed by Toyotomi Hideyoshi as lord of the region, moved his seat south from Sannohe and began a new castle on a hill between the rivers. Construction took several decades; the town grew around it with merchant and craft quarters, and the name was eventually written with characters meaning 'prosperous hill'.
In the Boshin War of 1868 the Morioka domain joined the northern alliance against the new government and was punished with a reduction in rank. After the abolition of the domains the castle buildings were dismantled, and the site became Iwate Park. Morioka received city status in 1889 and grew as a rail junction and school town. It became a core city in 2008.
1597
Nanbu Nobunao begins building Morioka Castle between the Kitakami and Nakatsu rivers.
1633
Nanbu Shigenao takes up permanent residence in the completed castle.
1680
Morioka Hachimangu is founded as the guardian shrine of the castle town.
1868
Morioka fights on the side of the northern alliance in the Boshin War.
1889
Morioka is incorporated as a city.
1906
The castle site opens as Iwate Park.
1911
Completion of the red-brick head office of the Morioka Bank, designed by Tatsuno Kingo and Kasai Manji.
2008
Morioka becomes a core city.
Culture
Morioka combines the calm of a regional capital with a strong sense of craft. Ironware foundries, dyers and basket makers still work in the centre, and the city's coffee houses, bookshops and small galleries reflect its long role as a school town. The literary legacy of Ishikawa Takuboku and Miyazawa Kenji, both pupils of Morioka schools, is marked by statues, memorial rooms and poems carved in stone around the city.
Festivals
Morioka Sansa Odori
盛岡さんさ踊りMorioka Sansa OdoriFrom 1 to 4 August thousands of dancers, flute players and taiko drummers parade along Chuo-dori; spectators may join the closing wa-odori circle dance.
Chagu Chagu Umakko
チャグチャグ馬コChagu Chagu UmakkoIn June decorated horses with jingling bells walk about 14 km from Takizawa to Morioka Hachimangu.
Morioka Autumn Festival
盛岡秋まつりMorioka Aki MatsuriThe September festival of Morioka Hachimangu with tall festival floats (dashi) and horseback archery.
Food
Wanko soba
わんこそばwanko sobaBite-sized servings of soba flicked into the bowl until the diner puts the lid on; counting bowls is part of the fun.
Morioka reimen
盛岡冷麺Morioka reimenCold, springy noodles in a clear beef broth with kimchi and a slice of fruit, served in many yakiniku restaurants.
Jajamen
じゃじゃ麺jajamenFlat noodles with meat miso, cucumber and ginger, finished with an egg soup made in the same bowl.
Nanbu senbei
南部せんべいNanbu senbeiRound wheat crackers with sesame or peanuts, baked in iron moulds.
Iwate sake
南部杜氏Nanbu tōjiMorioka breweries work in the tradition of the Nanbu toji, one of Japan's largest guilds of master brewers.
Getting around
- Morioka Station is served by the Tohoku Shinkansen from Tokyo (a little over two hours on the fastest trains) and by the Akita Shinkansen towards Lake Tazawa, Kakunodate and Akita.
- The IGR Iwate Galaxy Railway runs north towards Aomori Prefecture, and the Yamada Line crosses the Kitakami Mountains to Miyako on the coast.
- The historic centre is compact; the loop buses Den-Den-Mushi circle between the station and the city centre, and rental bicycles are widely used.
- Iwate Hanamaki Airport lies about 40 minutes south by bus.
Day trips
The World Heritage temples of the Oshu Fujiwara, about an hour south by train via Ichinoseki.
The 2,038-metre volcano north-west of the city, climbed in a long day from trailheads such as Yakushi-dake or Umagaeshi.
Koiwai Farm
A large dairy farm founded in 1891 at the foot of Mount Iwate, with historic barns and pastures.
Hanamaki
Hometown of Miyazawa Kenji with his memorial museum and the nearby Hanamaki hot springs.
Volcanic plateau with marshes, the Aspite Line mountain road and hot springs such as Matsukawa and Fujishichi.
Japan's deepest lake and the samurai town of Kakunodate, both reached quickly on the Akita Shinkansen.
Other cities in the prefecture
Frequently asked questions
What is Morioka known for?
It is the former castle town of the Nanbu clan and the capital of Iwate, known for Nanbu ironware, wanko soba, reimen and jajamen noodles, and the Sansa Odori festival.
How long does it take to get from Tokyo to Morioka?
The fastest Tohoku Shinkansen services take a little over two hours.
Is anything left of Morioka Castle?
The buildings were removed after 1871, but the massive granite walls remain in Morioka Castle Site Park in the city centre.
Can Morioka be used as a base for Hiraizumi?
Yes. Hiraizumi is about an hour away by Shinkansen to Ichinoseki and a local train, or by local trains along the Tohoku Main Line.
Related
Sources
- 1.令和2年国勢調査 (opens in a new tab) — Statistics Bureau of Japan
- 2.盛岡市公式ホームページ (opens in a new tab) — 盛岡市
- 3.岩手県公式ホームページ (opens in a new tab) — 岩手県