Tokushima · City
Naruto
鳴門市なるとしNaruto-shiWhirlpools, masterpieces and the first step of the pilgrimage
Naruto is a city in north-eastern Tokushima Prefecture on the Naruto Strait, where tidal whirlpools form beneath the Ōnaruto Bridge to Awaji Island. It is the traditional starting point of the Shikoku pilgrimage at Ryōzen-ji, Temple 1, and home of the Ōtsuka Museum of Art.
Overview
Naruto faces the Naruto Strait, a channel about 1.3 kilometres wide between Shikoku and Awaji Island through which the tides of the Seto Inland Sea and the Pacific rush in and out. Where the fast current meets slower water, whirlpools form that can reach some 20 metres across at spring tides. The Ōnaruto Bridge spans the strait, and a walkway beneath its deck lets visitors look straight down on the eddies.
The city is also the gateway to Shikoku for travellers from Kansai and the starting point of the henro: pilgrims buy their white robes, staffs and stamp books at Ryōzen-ji, Temple 1, before setting off west. On the headland near the bridge, the Ōtsuka Museum of Art displays full-size ceramic reproductions of more than a thousand Western paintings, from Byzantine murals to Picasso.
In the early twentieth century Naruto hosted the Bandō prisoner-of-war camp, where German soldiers captured at Qingdao lived from 1917 to 1920 in unusually humane conditions; their orchestra gave the first Japanese performance of Beethoven's Ninth Symphony in 1918. The Naruto German House commemorates the camp, and the city keeps a sister-city link with Lüneburg.
Landmarks
- 鳴門の渦潮Naruto no uzushio
Tidal whirlpools in the strait, viewed from sightseeing boats or from above; part of the Setonaikai National Park.
Uzu no Michi
渦の道Uzu no michiA walkway about 450 metres long beneath the Ōnaruto Bridge, with glass floor panels 45 metres above the water.
Ōtsuka Museum of Art
大塚国際美術館Ōtsuka Kokusai BijutsukanFull-scale ceramic reproductions of Western masterpieces, including a recreation of the Sistine Chapel.
Ryōzen-ji
霊山寺Ryōzen-jiTemple 1 of the Shikoku pilgrimage, where most pilgrims receive their first stamp and equipment.
Naruto German House
鳴門市ドイツ館Naruto-shi DoitsukanA museum of the Bandō camp and its prisoners, next to the camp site.
Ōasahiko Shrine
大麻比古神社Ōasahiko JinjaThe ichinomiya of Awa, with a small stone bridge built by the German prisoners in its grounds.
Naruto Park
鳴門公園Naruto KōenThe headland park at the bridge with viewpoints over the strait and Awaji.
Districts
Naruto headland
鳴門公園周辺Naruto Kōen shūhenThe Ōge island area with the bridge, walkway and museum.
Bandō
板東BandōThe inland district with Ryōzen-ji, the German House and Ōasahiko Shrine.
Muya
撫養MuyaThe historic port and commercial centre near Naruto Station.
Ōasa
大麻ŌasaArea known for Ōtani-yaki pottery kilns.
History
The shores of Naruto were long known for salt fields, and the strait's whirlpools were painted by Utagawa Hiroshige. The area around Bandō has been a pilgrimage gateway since the Edo period.
From 1917 to 1920 the Bandō camp held about a thousand German prisoners, who under the camp commander Matsue Toyohisa ran workshops, published a newspaper, built bridges and gave concerts. The city of Naruto was formed in 1947. The Ōnaruto Bridge opened in 1985, followed in 1998 by the Akashi Kaikyō Bridge and the Ōtsuka Museum of Art.
1857
Hiroshige's triptych of the Naruto whirlpools is published.
1917
The Bandō prisoner-of-war camp opens for German soldiers from Qingdao.
1918
On 1 June the camp orchestra and choir perform Beethoven's Ninth Symphony, a first in Japan.
1920
The camp closes and the prisoners are repatriated.
1947
The city of Naruto is formed.
1985
The Ōnaruto Bridge opens across the strait.
1998
The Ōtsuka Museum of Art opens.
2018
The Bandō camp site is designated a National Historic Site.
Culture
Naruto's cultural memory is unusually international. Each June a citizens' choir performs Beethoven's Ninth in memory of the Bandō camp, and the friendship between townspeople and prisoners is remembered through the German House and the city's partnership with Lüneburg. As the start of the henro, the city also sees pilgrims set out every day of the year.
Festivals
Naruto Ninth Symphony Concert
鳴門「第九」演奏会Naruto Daiku ensōkaiAn annual June concert with a large choir of citizens and visitors.
Naruto Awa Odori
鳴門市阿波おどりNaruto-shi Awa OdoriNaruto's own Awa Odori, held in August just before the Tokushima city festival.
Food
Naruto sea bream
鳴門鯛Naruto-daiSea bream from the fast currents of the strait, prized for firm flesh.
Naruto wakame
鳴門わかめNaruto wakameSeaweed farmed in the strait, harvested in late winter and spring.
Naruto kintoki
なると金時Naruto kintokiSweet potatoes from sandy coastal fields, eaten roasted or in sweets.
Naruto udon
鳴ちゅるうどんNaru-churu udonSoft, uneven noodles in a light broth, unlike firm Sanuki udon.
Getting around
- The JR Naruto Line runs from Tokushima to Naruto Station in about 40 minutes; buses continue to Naruto Park and the museum.
- Highway buses between Kansai and Tokushima stop at Kōsoku Naruto, from which local buses serve the headland.
- Sightseeing boats leave from Kameura port near the bridge for close views of the whirlpools.
- Tokushima Awaodori Airport lies just south of the city.
Day trips
- 徳島Tokushima
The capital, with Bizan and the Awa Odori, about 40 minutes away.
- 淡路島Awajishima
The island across the bridge, with flower parks and onion fields.
Henro temples 2–10
第二番〜十番札所Dai-ni-ban – jū-ban fudashoThe first day of the pilgrimage, walking west from Ryōzen-ji to Kirihata-ji.
- 神戸Kōbe
About an hour and a half by highway bus across Awaji.
Other cities in the prefecture
Frequently asked questions
When are the Naruto whirlpools biggest?
At spring tides around the new and full moon, when the tidal current is strongest, and especially in spring and autumn. Viewing times depend on the tide and are published daily by the operators.
Is the Ōtsuka Museum of Art worth the visit?
It is one of Japan's largest exhibition spaces, and its full-size ceramic reproductions allow visitors to see works from many museums in one place; allow at least half a day.
Do you need special clothing to start the henro at Ryōzen-ji?
No, but most pilgrims buy the white vest, staff, stamp book and other items at the temple shop, where staff explain the rituals.
What is the connection between Naruto and Germany?
German prisoners of war were held at the Bandō camp from 1917 to 1920; their friendly relations with local people and their concerts, including Japan's first Ninth Symphony, are commemorated at the German House.
Related
Sources
- 1.鳴門市ホームページ (opens in a new tab) — 鳴門市
- 2.令和2年国勢調査 (opens in a new tab) — Statistics Bureau of Japan
- 3.四国八十八ヶ所霊場会 (opens in a new tab) — 四国八十八ヶ所霊場会
- 4.瀬戸内海国立公園 (opens in a new tab) — 環境省