Festivals · July
Hakata Gion Yamakasa
博多祇園山笠はかたぎおんやまかさHakata Gion YamakasaA tonne on the shoulders, at a run, at dawn
Hakata Gion Yamakasa is the summer festival of Kushida Shrine in the Hakata district of Fukuoka, held from 1 to 15 July. Teams from seven traditional districts carry floats weighing about a tonne at a run through the streets, culminating in the timed Oiyama race that starts at 4:59 a.m. on 15 July.
Hakata, the old merchant town on the east bank of the Naka river, has been part of the city of Fukuoka since 1889 but keeps its own identity, and nothing expresses it more than the Yamakasa. For the first half of July the district's men train, run and carry floats, and the streets fill with the sound of the chant 'Ossa, ossa' and with the sight of water thrown over the running teams.
The festival has two kinds of float. The kazariyama are tall display floats, decorated with figures from history and legend, which stand in fixed places around the city. The kakiyama are the carrying floats, lower and lighter but still around a tonne in weight, which are raced through the streets on the shoulders of a rotating team.
Origins
Tradition dates the festival to 1241, when the priest Enni (Shōichi Kokushi), founder of Jōtenji temple in Hakata, was carried through the town on a platform sprinkling blessed water to drive out an epidemic. The festival became attached to Kushida Shrine, whose Gion cult, like that of Kyoto's Yasaka Shrine, was devoted to protection from pestilence.
The racing element is said to date from the late seventeenth century, when two rival floats turned a procession into a contest; it has defined the festival ever since.
The seven nagare
The participating teams are organised by nagare, groupings of neighbourhoods that go back to the reconstruction of Hakata by Toyotomi Hideyoshi after the wars of the sixteenth century. Seven nagare each field a kakiyama, and every float is carried by teams from its constituent neighbourhoods who take turns under the carrying poles while running.
Membership is hereditary in practice and demanding: teams train in the evenings, observe rules of conduct during the festival period and wear the festival dress of happi coat and shimekomi loincloth.
Nagare
流nagareA traditional district grouping of Hakata; the seven are Ebisu, Doi, Ōkuramon, Higashi, Nakasu, Nishi and Chiyo.
Kakiyama
舁き山kakiyamaThe carrying float of about a tonne, raced on the shoulders of a team of around twenty-six at a time.
Kazariyama
飾り山kazariyamaTall decorative floats displayed at fixed points in the city from 1 July, with scenes on both front and back.
Kioimizu
勢い水kioimizu'Spirit water' thrown over the carriers from buckets by spectators and supporters along the route.
The festival programme
The kazariyama go on display on 1 July. In the following days the teams make practice runs and ceremonial runs through Hakata, and on the afternoon of 12 July a timed rehearsal of the full course is held. On 13 July the floats are carried to the Fukuoka side of the river and presented to the city in the Shūdan Yamamise.
The festival ends with the Oiyama at dawn on 15 July. The first float enters the grounds of Kushida Shrine at 4:59 a.m., circles the pole in front of the shrine and then races a course of about five kilometres through Hakata; the others follow at intervals. Each float is timed, and the fastest times are followed closely by the city.
The Kushida-iri
The most intense moment is the Kushida-iri, the entry of each float into the shrine grounds at the start of the Oiyama, before a packed stand of spectators. The team sings the Hakata iwai-uta, a celebratory song, before the first float departs, and the whole run is over in around half an hour. After the race the kakiyama are dismantled the same morning, in keeping with the idea that the floats serve the deity for the festival alone.
Seeing the festival
The kazariyama can be viewed throughout the first half of July, including a permanent one on display at Kushida Shrine outside festival time. For the dawn Oiyama, spectators line the route through Hakata from the early hours; the stands within Kushida Shrine are allocated in advance. Hakata Station, the terminus of the Sanyō Shinkansen, lies close to the course.
Timeline
1241
Traditional origin: the priest Enni blesses Hakata with water to drive out an epidemic.
1587
Toyotomi Hideyoshi reorganises the war-damaged town; the nagare districts take shape.
Late 17th c.
A race between rival floats establishes the running tradition.
1979
Designated an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property.
2016
Inscribed by UNESCO as part of Yama, Hoko, Yatai, float festivals in Japan.
Frequently asked questions
When is the Hakata Gion Yamakasa?
From 1 to 15 July every year. The climax, the Oiyama race, starts at 4:59 a.m. on 15 July.
Why does the race start at 4:59?
Starting a minute before five is a long-standing custom of the festival; the first float enters Kushida Shrine to the drum at that moment and the others follow at set intervals.
What is the difference between kazariyama and kakiyama?
Kazariyama are tall decorated display floats that stand in the city, while kakiyama are the lower carrying floats of about a tonne that are raced through the streets.
Can visitors take part?
Carrying is done by members of the neighbourhood teams, who train and commit to the festival rules. Visitors watch from the streets and can view the kazariyama throughout early July.
Related
Sources
- 1.博多祇園山笠 公式サイト (opens in a new tab) — 博多祇園山笠振興会
- 2.Yama, Hoko, Yatai, float festivals in Japan (opens in a new tab) — UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage
- 3.福岡市ホームページ (opens in a new tab) — 福岡市