Sake

Sake rice (shuzō kōteki mai) has large grains with a starchy core (shinpaku) and relatively little protein and fat, which cause off-flavours. The outer layers are polished away before brewing; the remaining percentage is the polishing ratio (seimai buai). Water makes up most of the finished sake, and famous brewing areas grew up around good springs: the hard miyamizu of Nada produces robust sake, the softer water of Fushimi a gentler style.

Traditional brewing takes place in the cold months. The polished rice is washed, soaked and steamed. Part of it is used to grow kōji in a warm room; another part goes into a yeast starter (shubo or moto). The main mash is built up in three additions over four days, then ferments for several weeks. The mash is pressed, and the sake is usually filtered, pasteurised twice and matured for some months before bottling.

Brewing was long led by a tōji, a master brewer, with a team of seasonal workers from farming and fishing villages. Guilds such as the Nanbu tōji of Iwate, the Echigo tōji of Niigata and the Tajima tōji of Hyogo passed on their methods. Today many breweries are run by owner-brewers with year-round staff.

Japanese law defines 'special designation sake' (tokutei meishōshu) by polishing ratio and whether a small amount of distilled alcohol is added. Junmai sake uses only rice, kōji and water. Honjōzō and the non-junmai ginjō grades contain a limited addition of brewer's alcohol, which lightens the body and lifts the aroma. Ginjō grades are brewed slowly at low temperatures to develop fruity, floral aromas. Most sake sold is ordinary sake (futsūshu) outside these categories.

Sake is brewed in every prefecture. Some areas are historically famous for their volume or style, and many prefectures promote their own yeasts and rice varieties.

Sake is served at a wide range of temperatures, from chilled (reishu) through room temperature (hiya) to warmed (kan). Aromatic ginjō is usually served cool; fuller junmai and honjōzō often benefit from warming. It is poured from a small flask (tokkuri) into small cups (ochoko or guinomi), or served in a wooden box (masu), sometimes with a glass inside that is filled to overflowing as a gesture of generosity.

At a shared table, people pour for each other rather than for themselves, holding the flask with both hands for a senior person; the receiver lifts their cup. Sake is traditionally paired with food, and a glass of water (yawaragi-mizu) alongside is recommended.