Food & Drink
Izakaya
居酒屋いざかやizakayaSmall plates, cold beer and the evening after work
An izakaya is a casual Japanese drinking establishment that serves a wide range of small dishes meant for sharing. Somewhere between a pub and a restaurant, it is where colleagues and friends meet after work, ordering food and drinks in rounds over the evening.
The name izakaya combines i (to stay) and sakaya (sake shop). In the Edo period some sake retailers let customers drink on the premises and began to serve simple snacks, and these shops developed into dedicated drinking places. After the Second World War, cheap drinking stalls and bars flourished around railway stations, and from the 1970s large izakaya chains spread across the country.
The izakaya is central to Japanese social life. It hosts office parties, reunions and informal evenings, and in its relaxed atmosphere the formality of work can loosen. Food is as important as drink: menus are long and varied, and dishes arrive one by one to be shared by the table.
Types of izakaya
Izakaya range from tiny counters run by a single owner to multi-storey chain restaurants with private rooms and tablet ordering. The red paper lantern (akachōchin) hanging outside has become a symbol of the modest neighbourhood drinking place.
Akachochin
赤提灯akachōchinA red lantern marking a casual, inexpensive drinking place; also a name for such places.
Tachinomi
立ち飲みtachinomiA standing bar, often near stations, for a quick drink and a few small dishes.
Robatayaki
炉端焼きrobatayakiIzakaya where fish and vegetables are grilled over a hearth in front of guests.
- 焼き鳥屋yakitori-ya
Izakaya specialising in grilled skewers of chicken.
- 横丁yokochō
Narrow alleys lined with tiny bars and eateries, such as the postwar alleys near Shinjuku and Shibuya stations.
Arriving and ordering
On arrival, guests are greeted with a loud 'irasshaimase' and shown to a table, counter or tatami room. A hot or cold wet towel (oshibori) is handed out for cleaning hands. Soon after, a small appetiser, the otōshi (in Kansai called tsukidashi), arrives unasked; it is charged per person as a kind of table charge and cannot usually be declined.
The first order is typically drinks for everyone, often with the phrase 'toriaezu biru', 'a beer for now'. Nobody drinks until all glasses have arrived and the group has toasted together with 'kanpai'. Food is then ordered a few dishes at a time over the evening, rather than all at once. Many izakaya offer nomihōdai, all-you-can-drink for a set time, especially for group bookings.
Oshibori
おしぼりoshiboriWet towel for the hands, not for wiping the face or the table.
Otoshi
お通しotōshiSmall appetiser served automatically and charged as a cover.
Kanpai
乾杯kanpaiThe shared toast that starts the evening.
Nomihodai
飲み放題nomihōdaiAll-you-can-drink plan for a fixed period, often paired with a set course of food.
Shime
締めshimeThe closing dish, such as rice balls, ochazuke or noodles, that rounds off the evening.
Typical dishes
Izakaya menus mix Japanese classics with dishes adapted from Western and Chinese cooking, all designed to go with drinks. Many places also post handwritten daily specials of seasonal fish and vegetables.
Edamame
枝豆edamameBoiled, salted young soybeans in the pod.
Karaage
唐揚げkaraageMarinated, deep-fried chicken pieces.
Sashimi moriawase
刺身盛り合わせsashimi moriawaseA platter of assorted raw fish.
Hiyayakko
冷奴hiyayakkoChilled tofu with ginger, spring onion and soy sauce.
Agedashi dofu
揚げ出し豆腐agedashi dōfuLightly fried tofu in a warm dashi broth.
Tamagoyaki
玉子焼きtamagoyakiRolled omelette, sweet or savoury depending on region.
Ochazuke
お茶漬けochazukeRice with tea or dashi poured over it, a classic end to an evening.
Drinks
Draught beer is the standard first drink. Whisky highballs and chūhai (shōchū mixed with soda and fruit flavours, often called 'sour') are popular with a younger crowd. Traditional izakaya have lists of sake and shōchū from different regions, and many have umeshu (plum liqueur). Soft drinks and oolong tea are always available for non-drinkers.
Nama biru
生ビールnama bīruDraught beer, served in mugs (jokki).
Chuhai
酎ハイchūhaiShōchū with soda and flavouring such as lemon or grapefruit.
- 焼酎shōchū
Distilled spirit from sweet potato, barley, rice or brown sugar, especially associated with Kyushu; drunk on the rocks, with water or hot water.
- 日本酒nihonshu
Rice-based brewed drink, served cold, at room temperature or warm.
Customs and paying
In a group, people pour drinks for one another and keep an eye on empty glasses; juniors traditionally pour for seniors. It is fine to decline another drink by leaving the glass full. Smoking rules vary by establishment and local regulation, so it is worth checking at the entrance.
The bill (okaikei) is paid at the end, usually at the register, and in groups it is common to split it evenly (warikan). Tipping is not practised. Many izakaya limit table time on busy evenings, particularly with all-you-can-drink plans.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between an izakaya and a bar?
An izakaya serves a large menu of food as well as drinks, and meals are an essential part of the visit. A Japanese bar focuses on drinks, with only light snacks, if any.
What is the otoshi charge?
The otōshi is a small appetiser served automatically at most izakaya and charged per person, functioning as a table charge. It is a normal custom, not a scam.
Can I go to an izakaya if I do not drink alcohol?
Yes. Izakaya serve soft drinks, oolong tea and increasingly non-alcoholic beer and cocktails, and the food alone makes a good meal.
Should I tip at an izakaya?
No. Tipping is not customary in Japan and staff may return the money. Some places add a service charge for private rooms or group courses.
How do I call the staff?
In most izakaya it is normal to raise a hand and call 'sumimasen' (excuse me). Some tables have a call button or ordering tablet.
Related
Sources
- 1.Japan National Tourism Organization – Official travel guide (opens in a new tab) — JNTO
- 2.日本酒造組合中央会 (opens in a new tab) — Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association