Sushi

In narezushi the rice served only to ferment the fish and was discarded. From the Muromachi period, people began to eat fish and rice together after a shorter fermentation (namanare). In the Edo period vinegar was added to imitate the sour taste without waiting, and pressed and boxed sushi became common, especially in the Kansai region.

In Edo, cooks began to press fresh fish onto vinegared rice by hand and serve it at once. The technique is traditionally credited to Hanaya Yohei in the 1820s. Fish from Edo Bay was marinated, cured or simmered because there was no refrigeration, which is why Edomae sushi still uses techniques such as curing mackerel in vinegar or marinating tuna in soy sauce.

Sushi comes in many forms, from the precise nigiri of the specialist counter to rolls and scattered sushi made at home. The quality of the rice, its temperature and the balance of vinegar, salt and sugar are regarded by chefs as just as important as the fish.

Older forms of sushi survive across Japan. Funazushi from Lake Biwa in Shiga Prefecture, crucian carp fermented in rice for a year or more, is one of the closest relatives of ancient narezushi. Many regions have pressed or wrapped sushi that once allowed fish to travel inland.

At a sushi counter, the chef (itamae) prepares each piece and places it in front of the guest, who ideally eats it straight away. Omakase, 'leaving it to the chef', means accepting a sequence of the chef's choice, often moving from lighter white fish to richer items. Counter sushi has its own vocabulary, much of it traditional shop slang.

Conveyor-belt sushi (kaitenzushi), first opened in Osaka Prefecture in 1958, made sushi everyday food. Plates circulate past the seats and customers can also order by touchscreen; green tea powder and hot water are usually available at the seat.

Nigiri may be eaten with chopsticks or with the fingers; both are correct. It is turned slightly so that the fish, not the rice, touches the soy sauce, since rice soaks it up and falls apart. Pieces are eaten in one bite where possible. At a good counter, pieces that already carry a glaze (nitsume) or salt are eaten without soy sauce.

Mixing wasabi into the soy sauce is common in casual restaurants but frowned upon at traditional counters, where the chef has already added the right amount. Ginger is a palate cleanser rather than a topping.