Islands · Hiroshima
Itsukushima (Miyajima)
厳島いつくしまItsukushimaThe island where the shrine stands in the sea
Itsukushima, popularly called Miyajima ('shrine island'), is a sacred island in Hiroshima Bay, famous for Itsukushima Shrine, built over the tidal flats, and its great torii standing in the sea. The shrine and the forested slopes of Mount Misen behind it are a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Overview
Itsukushima lies in the western part of Hiroshima Bay, less than a kilometre off the mainland at Miyajimaguchi. The whole island has long been considered a deity in itself, and for centuries births, deaths and burials were not permitted on it. Its common name, Miyajima, simply means 'shrine island'.
Itsukushima Shrine was, according to tradition, founded in 593 and took its present form in the 12th century under the patronage of Taira no Kiyomori. Its vermilion halls and corridors stand on piles over a tidal bay, so that at high tide the shrine appears to float; the great torii stands some 200 metres offshore. Together with the forested mountain behind, the shrine was inscribed as a World Heritage site in 1996, and the island is one of the Three Views of Japan (Nihon Sankei).
The small town by the ferry pier combines temples, a shopping street and ryokan with a population of semi-tame sika deer. Above it, Mount Misen rises to 535 metres through a primeval forest that has been protected as sacred ground.
Landscape and formation
The island is formed of granite, weathered into rounded boulders and tors on the upper slopes of Misen. Steep, forested ridges run the length of the island, while the shrine and town occupy a small bay on the north-west coast. The tidal range of the Seto Inland Sea here exceeds three metres, so the shore around the torii is dry at low tide and flooded at high tide.
Highlights
- 厳島神社Itsukushima Jinja
Shrine complex built over the water, with main halls designated National Treasures.
Great Torii
大鳥居ŌtoriiCamphor-wood gate about 16 m high standing in the sea; the present torii dates from 1875 and rests on its own weight.
Mount Misen
弥山MisenThe island's 535 m summit, sacred to Shingon Buddhism, with the 'eternal flame' hall and views across the Inland Sea.
Daishō-in
大聖院Daishō-inLeading Shingon temple of the island at the foot of Misen.
Senjōkaku and Five-storey Pagoda
千畳閣・五重塔Senjōkaku, Gojū-no-tōGreat hall commissioned by Toyotomi Hideyoshi in 1587 and a pagoda of 1407 on the hill above the shrine.
Ecology
Because the island was sacred, the forests of Misen were spared from logging, leaving one of the best-preserved warm-temperate forests of the Inland Sea region; the Misen primeval forest is a Natural Monument. Sika deer have lived on the island since ancient times and are regarded as messengers of the gods.
Flora
Misen primeval forest
弥山原始林Misen genshirinForest of fir, Japanese red pine and evergreen oaks on the upper slopes.
Maples of Momijidani
紅葉谷MomijidaniValley park behind the shrine, known for autumn colour and the origin of the momiji manjū cake.
Fauna
Sika deer
Several hundred deer roam the town and forest; feeding them is prohibited.
Culture
The island is dedicated to the three Munakata goddesses, protectors of seafarers. Kūkai is said to have practised on Misen in 806, lighting a fire that has burned since. Local food is built on the sea: oysters from Hiroshima Bay and grilled conger eel on rice (anago-meshi) are specialities, together with maple-leaf-shaped momiji manjū.
Kangensai
管絃祭KangensaiSummer festival held on the 17th day of the sixth lunar month, when boats carry the deity across the bay to court music.
Kiezu no Hi
消えずの火Kiezu no HiThe 'undying flame' on Misen, said to have burned since Kūkai's time; it also lit the Flame of Peace in Hiroshima.
History
593
Itsukushima Shrine is founded, according to tradition.
1168
Taira no Kiyomori rebuilds the shrine in its present layout.
1407
The five-storey pagoda is built.
1555
Mōri Motonari defeats Sue Harukata in the Battle of Itsukushima.
1587
Toyotomi Hideyoshi commissions the Senjōkaku hall.
1875
The present (eighth) great torii is erected.
1952
The island is designated a Special Historic Site and Special Place of Scenic Beauty.
1996
Itsukushima Shinto Shrine is inscribed on the World Heritage List.
Through the seasons
Spring
Cherry blossom around the shrine and pagoda in early April.
Summer
The Kangensai boat festival; hot, humid days are best spent on the shaded Misen trails early or late.
Autumn
Maple colour in Momijidani from mid- to late November.
Winter
Oyster season, with grilled oysters sold throughout the town.
Routes and trails
Misen by ropeway and trail
The Miyajima Ropeway climbs most of the way; the last section to the summit is on foot.
Daishō-in route
Stone-stepped trail of about 1.5 to 2 hours from Daishō-in to the summit of Misen.
Torii at low tide
At low tide the sand flats can be walked to the foot of the great torii.
Practical notes
- Ferries cross from Miyajimaguchi (JR and Hiroden tram) in about ten minutes; boats also run from Hiroshima's Peace Park area.
- A visitor tax is collected from visitors to the island; details are on the Hatsukaichi city site.
- Check tide tables to see the torii at both high and low tide.
- Do not feed the deer; they may snatch food and paper.
Frequently asked questions
Is Miyajima the same as Itsukushima?
Yes. Itsukushima is the official name; Miyajima, 'shrine island', is the everyday name.
When can you walk to the torii?
At low tide, when the sea withdraws from the flats in front of the shrine. At high tide the torii and shrine appear to float.
How do you get to Miyajima from Hiroshima?
By JR or tram to Miyajimaguchi, then a ten-minute ferry; direct boats also run from central Hiroshima.
Can you stay overnight on Miyajima?
Yes, there are ryokan and hotels; evenings and early mornings are much quieter than the daytime.
How long does it take to climb Mount Misen?
About 1.5 to 2 hours on foot from the town, or a short walk from the upper ropeway station.
Related
Sources
- 1.Itsukushima Shinto Shrine (opens in a new tab) — UNESCO World Heritage Centre
- 2.瀬戸内海国立公園 (opens in a new tab) — 環境省
- 3.廿日市市 (opens in a new tab) — 廿日市市
- 4.文化遺産オンライン (opens in a new tab) — 文化庁