Hiroshima · City
Hatsukaichi
廿日市市はつかいちしHatsukaichi-shiMainland port town and the sacred island of Miyajima
Hatsukaichi is a city on Hiroshima Bay west of Hiroshima whose territory includes the island of Miyajima (Itsukushima). The island's Itsukushima Shrine, built over the sea with its great torii, is a World Heritage site and one of the Three Views of Japan.
Overview
Hatsukaichi stretches from the shore of Hiroshima Bay deep into the forested mountains on the border with Shimane and Yamaguchi. Its name, "twentieth-day market", recalls a market town on the San'yō road, and today much of the mainland is residential suburb of Hiroshima. Since 2005, the city has also included Miyajima, the island that makes it one of Japan's most visited places.
Miyajima, officially Itsukushima, has been worshipped as a sacred island since antiquity. Itsukushima Shrine was built over the tidal flats so that the island itself would not be disturbed, and in 1168 Taira no Kiyomori gave it its present form of vermilion halls linked by corridors. At high tide the shrine and its great torii appear to float; at low tide visitors can walk out to the gate.
Behind the shrine, the island rises to Mount Misen, covered in primeval forest and crowned by granite boulders, with the temple of Daishō-in on its slope and a ropeway towards the summit. Tame sika deer wander the streets of the shrine town, and the ferry pier at Miyajimaguchi on the mainland is famous for grilled conger eel on rice.
Landmarks
- 嚴島神社Itsukushima Jinja
Vermilion halls and corridors standing on piles over the tidal flats, with main buildings designated National Treasures.
Great Torii
大鳥居ŌtoriiA camphor-wood gate about 16 metres high standing in the sea, held in place by its own weight.
- 弥山Misen
The island's 535-metre summit, with primeval forest, giant boulders, the Eternal Flame hall and views over the Inland Sea.
Daishō-in
大聖院Daishō-inThe island's leading Shingon temple, with rows of Buddhist statues and prayer wheels on its stairway.
Senjōkaku
豊国神社（千畳閣）Hōkoku Jinja (Senjōkaku)A vast, unfinished hall of about 857 tatami mats begun for Hideyoshi, beside the five-storey pagoda.
Momijidani Park
紅葉谷公園Momijidani KōenA valley of maples behind the shrine, known for its autumn colours and the start of the ropeway.
Omotesandō
表参道商店街Omotesandō shōtengaiThe shopping street from the pier to the shrine, lined with momiji manjū bakers and the world's largest rice scoop.
Districts
Miyajima
宮島MiyajimaThe shrine island, with the old town of Machiya-dōri and the shrine precinct.
Miyajimaguchi
宮島口MiyajimaguchiThe mainland ferry port with JR and tram stations and anago-meshi restaurants.
Hatsukaichi centre
廿日市HatsukaichiThe old market town on the San'yō road, now the city's administrative centre.
Yoshiwa and Saiki
吉和・佐伯Yoshiwa, SaikiMountain districts inland with forests, a ski area and the source of the Ōta River's tributaries.
History
Tradition dates the founding of Itsukushima Shrine to 593. The shrine rose to national prominence when Taira no Kiyomori, governor of Aki, adopted it as his clan's tutelary shrine and rebuilt it lavishly in 1168; the Taira also dedicated the Heike Nōkyō, sutra scrolls now a National Treasure. After fires in the thirteenth century the halls were rebuilt in the same layout.
In 1555 Mōri Motonari defeated Sue Harukata on the island in the battle of Itsukushima, and the Mōri and later the Asano lords of Hiroshima continued to patronise the shrine. Toyotomi Hideyoshi began the great hall Senjōkaku in 1587. The present great torii dates from 1875. The shrine was inscribed as a World Heritage site in 1996, and mergers in 2003 and 2005 brought Miyajima and the mountain districts into Hatsukaichi.
593
Itsukushima Shrine is founded, according to tradition, by Saeki no Kuramoto.
1168
Taira no Kiyomori rebuilds the shrine in its present layout over the sea.
1241
The main halls are rebuilt after fires, following Kiyomori's plan.
1407
The five-storey pagoda is erected on the hill beside the shrine.
1555
Mōri Motonari wins the battle of Itsukushima.
1587
Toyotomi Hideyoshi orders the building of Senjōkaku, left unfinished at his death.
1875
The present great torii, the eighth since the Heian period, is erected.
1996
Itsukushima Shinto Shrine is inscribed on the World Heritage List.
2005
The towns of Miyajima and Ōno merge into Hatsukaichi.
Culture
Miyajima's culture is shaped by its sanctity: for centuries births and burials were kept off the island, and there is still no cemetery on it. The shrine preserves court music and bugaku dance, performed at festivals and on its Nō stage, which stands on the sea. The rice scoop (shamoji), said to have been invented here by a monk, is the island's classic craft and souvenir.
Festivals
Kangensai
管絃祭KangensaiOn the 17th day of the sixth lunar month, court music is performed on boats that cross the bay by night.
Chinkasai
鎮火祭ChinkasaiA fire festival on 31 December in which young men carry huge burning torches along the shore.
Tōkasai
桃花祭TōkasaiA spring festival of Itsukushima Shrine with bugaku dance and a dedicatory Nō performance on the sea stage.
Food
Anago-meshi
あなごめしAnago-meshiGrilled conger eel over rice cooked in eel broth, served at Miyajimaguchi since the early twentieth century.
Grilled oysters
焼き牡蠣Yaki-gakiOysters from the waters around the island, grilled at stalls on Omotesandō.
Momiji manjū
もみじ饅頭Momiji manjūMaple-leaf cakes first made on Miyajima in the Meiji era, also sold deep-fried as age-momiji.
Getting around
- JR Miyajimaguchi Station is about 25 minutes from Hiroshima on the San'yō Line; the Hiroden tram line from central Hiroshima takes about an hour.
- Two ferry companies cross from Miyajimaguchi to the island in about 10 minutes; boats also run from Hiroshima's Peace Park and Ujina.
- A visitor levy is charged for trips to Miyajima; see the city's official site for current details.
- On the island, the shrine and town are walkable; the Miyajima Ropeway climbs from Momijidani Park towards the summit of Mount Misen.
Day trips
- 広島Hiroshima
The Peace Memorial Park and Atomic Bomb Dome, under an hour away.
- 岩国Iwakuni
The Kintai Bridge in Yamaguchi, about 30 minutes west by train.
- 原爆ドームGenbaku Dōmu
The World Heritage ruin, linked to Miyajima by direct boat.
Sandankyō
三段峡SandankyōThe deep gorge of the western mountains, reached by car or bus via Hiroshima.
Other cities in the prefecture
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to see the floating torii?
At high tide, when the torii and shrine appear to float; at low tide you can walk out to the gate. Tide tables are published by the shrine and the city.
Is Miyajima part of Hiroshima city?
No. Miyajima belongs to the city of Hatsukaichi, which borders Hiroshima to the west; it merged into Hatsukaichi in 2005.
How long does it take to climb Mount Misen?
About one and a half to two hours on foot from the shrine town; the ropeway shortens the ascent, leaving a walk of about 30 minutes to the summit.
Can you stay overnight on Miyajima?
Yes. There are ryokan and hotels on the island, and staying allows visiting the shrine in the quiet of the evening and early morning.
Related
Sources
- 1.廿日市市ホームページ (opens in a new tab) — 廿日市市
- 2.令和2年国勢調査 (opens in a new tab) — Statistics Bureau of Japan
- 3.Itsukushima Shinto Shrine (opens in a new tab) — UNESCO World Heritage Centre
- 4.嚴島神社 (opens in a new tab) — 嚴島神社
- 5.瀬戸内海国立公園 (opens in a new tab) — 環境省