Hiroshima · City
Onomichi
尾道市おのみちしOnomichi-shiTemples, slopes and a channel of the Inland Sea
Onomichi is a port city in eastern Hiroshima Prefecture, built on steep hillsides above a narrow channel of the Seto Inland Sea. Known for its many temples, literary and film associations and its island districts, it is the Honshu end of the Shimanami Kaido to Shikoku.
Overview
Onomichi is squeezed between steep hills and the Onomichi Channel, a strait only a few hundred metres wide separating the mainland from the island of Mukaishima. Lanes and stairways climb from the waterfront through a dense layer of old houses, temples and gardens to Senkō-ji park, from which the view takes in the channel, the shipyards and the islands beyond.
The town grew as a port from the twelfth century, and wealthy merchants endowed the temples that give it its character; Jōdo-ji holds two National Treasure buildings. In the twentieth century the writers Shiga Naoya and Hayashi Fumiko lived here, Ozu Yasujirō opened Tokyo Story in its streets, and Ōbayashi Nobuhiko set a series of films in his home town.
Since mergers in 2005 and 2006, Onomichi also includes Mukaishima, Innoshima and Setoda on Ikuchijima, three of the islands crossed by the Shimanami Kaido. Cyclists begin the route to Imabari here, and the island districts add citrus groves, shipyards and the extravagant temple of Kōsan-ji.
Landmarks
Senkō-ji
千光寺Senkō-jiA vermilion hillside temple among huge boulders, reached by ropeway or stairs, with the classic view over the channel.
Senkōji Park and the Path of Literature
千光寺公園・文学のこみちSenkōji Kōen, Bungaku no KomichiA cherry-blossom park and a trail of stones inscribed with passages by writers associated with the town.
Jōdo-ji
浄土寺Jōdo-jiIts main hall and Tahōtō pagoda of the fourteenth century are National Treasures.
Saikoku-ji
西國寺Saikoku-jiA large Shingon temple with a gate hung with a giant straw sandal and a three-storey pagoda.
Temple Walk
古寺めぐりKodera meguriA signposted route linking some 25 temples along the hillside.
Cat Alley
猫の細道Neko no hosomichiA narrow lane below Senkō-ji decorated with painted stones and frequented by cats.
Kōsan-ji
耕三寺Kōsan-jiA temple on Ikuchijima built from 1936 with replicas of famous buildings, and a marble garden, the Hill of Hope.
Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art
平山郁夫美術館Hirayama Ikuo BijutsukanWorks by the painter in his birthplace, Setoda.
Districts
Hillside (Yamate)
山手YamateThe slopes of temples, stairways and old villas above the station.
Shopping arcade
尾道本通り商店街Onomichi Hondōri shōtengaiA long arcade parallel to the waterfront, with ramen shops and cafés.
Mukaishima
向島MukaishimaThe island across the channel, reached by small ferries in a few minutes.
Innoshima
因島InnoshimaIsland of shipyards and flower gardens, once a base of the Murakami pirates.
Setoda (Ikuchijima)
瀬戸田SetodaCitrus island with Kōsan-ji and the Hirayama Ikuo museum.
History
In 1169 Onomichi was designated the shipping port for the Ōta estate of Mount Kōya, and it developed into one of the main ports of the Inland Sea, trading rice and later salt and cotton. The Ashikaga shoguns and the Murakami pirate clans of the islands both had ties to it, and in the Edo period, under the Asano of Hiroshima, it was a port of call for the Kitamae-bune trading ships.
Onomichi became a city in 1898. Shipbuilding flourished on both sides of the channel and on the islands. The completion of the Shimanami Kaido in 1999 and the mergers of 2005–2006 made it the gateway between Honshu and Shikoku, and in 2015 it was recognised as Japan Heritage for its medieval harbour townscape.
1169
Onomichi becomes the official port of the Ōta estate, a holding of Kōyasan.
1327
The main hall of Jōdo-ji is rebuilt; it is now a National Treasure.
1336
Ashikaga Takauji stays at Jōdo-ji and dedicates prayers for victory.
1860
The hassaku citrus is discovered at a temple on Innoshima.
1898
Onomichi is incorporated as a city.
1953
Ozu Yasujirō films the opening scenes of Tokyo Story in Onomichi.
1999
The Shimanami Kaido bridges to Imabari are completed.
2006
Innoshima and Setoda merge into Onomichi, following Mitsugi and Mukaishima in 2005.
2015
Onomichi's medieval harbour townscape is recognised as Japan Heritage.
Culture
Onomichi has long attracted writers and artists: Shiga Naoya wrote part of A Dark Night's Passing here, Hayashi Fumiko spent her youth in the town, and painters were drawn to its slopes. Ōbayashi Nobuhiko's films made its stairways familiar across Japan. The Betcha Festival in November, in which masked demons chase children, and the pirate festival of Innoshima keep older traditions alive.
Festivals
Betcha Festival
ベッチャー祭Betchā MatsuriFrom 1 to 3 November, figures in grotesque masks roam the streets striking children with sticks for good health.
Onomichi Minato Festival
尾道みなと祭Onomichi Minato MatsuriA spring port festival with parades and traditional dances.
Innoshima Suigun Festival
因島水軍まつりInnoshima Suigun MatsuriA summer festival recalling the Murakami sea clans, with boat races and fire events.
Onomichi Akari Festival
尾道灯りまつりOnomichi Akari MatsuriAn autumn evening when candles and lanterns light the temples and hillside lanes.
Food
Onomichi ramen
尾道ラーメンOnomichi rāmenSoy-sauce broth with small-fish stock and pork back-fat, with flat noodles.
Setoda lemons
瀬戸田レモンSetoda remonLemons from Ikuchijima, used in cakes, drinks and seasonings.
Hassaku
はっさくHassakuA tart winter citrus that originated on Innoshima, used in the local sweet hassaku daifuku.
Debera
でべらDeberaSmall dried flounder, grilled and eaten as a snack with sake.
Getting around
- JR Onomichi Station on the San'yō Line is about 20 minutes from Fukuyama, a Nozomi stop; Shin-Onomichi Station, served by some Shinkansen trains, lies inland with buses to the centre.
- A ropeway climbs from the foot of the hill to Senkōji Park; the temple walk descends on foot.
- Small ferries cross the Onomichi Channel to Mukaishima, the usual start for cyclists on the Shimanami Kaido.
- Rental bicycles can be hired in Onomichi and returned at terminals along the route; highway buses run across the bridges to Imabari and Matsuyama.
Day trips
- しまなみ海道Shimanami Kaidō
About 70 km of bridges and island roads to Imabari on Shikoku, by bicycle or bus.
Tomonoura
鞆の浦Tomo-no-uraAn Edo-period harbour with a stone lantern lighthouse in Fukuyama, about an hour away.
- 瀬戸内海国立公園Setonaikai Kokuritsu Kōen
The island landscape around Onomichi, with viewpoints on Innoshima and Ikuchijima.
Takehara
竹原TakeharaA salt-merchant town of the Edo period to the west.
- 倉敷Kurashiki
The canal quarter in Okayama, about an hour by train.
Other cities in the prefecture
Frequently asked questions
Where does the Shimanami Kaido cycling route start?
In Onomichi. Cyclists take a short ferry to Mukaishima and follow the blue line across six islands to Imabari, about 70 km.
How do you get to Senkō-ji?
By ropeway from near the arcade or by climbing the stairways; many visitors ride up and walk down along the temple route.
Is Onomichi on the Shinkansen?
Shin-Onomichi is served by some slower Shinkansen trains; more convenient is to change at Fukuyama for the 20-minute local train to Onomichi Station.
Which films were made in Onomichi?
Ozu's Tokyo Story opens in Onomichi, and Ōbayashi Nobuhiko shot several films here, including his Onomichi trilogy of the 1980s.
Related
Sources
- 1.尾道市ホームページ (opens in a new tab) — 尾道市
- 2.令和2年国勢調査 (opens in a new tab) — Statistics Bureau of Japan
- 3.日本遺産ポータルサイト (opens in a new tab) — 文化庁
- 4.瀬戸内海国立公園 (opens in a new tab) — 環境省