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Ehime · City

Imabari

今治市いまばりしImabari-shi

Bridges, shipyards and the islands of the sea clans

Imabari is a port city in northern Ehime at the Shikoku end of the Shimanami Kaido, the bridge route across the islands to Onomichi. It is Japan's leading towel-making centre and shipbuilding hub, and its islands were the home of the Murakami sea clans.

Overview

Imabari faces the Kurushima Strait, one of the three great tidal races of the Seto Inland Sea, where currents between the islands can exceed ten knots. Across it the Kurushima Kaikyō Bridge, the world's first triple suspension bridge, carries the Shimanami Kaido towards Ōshima, Hakatajima and Ōmishima, all part of the city since 2005, and on to Onomichi in Hiroshima.

The city is an industrial powerhouse for its size. Its shipyards form the core of Japan's largest shipbuilding and shipping cluster, and its looms produce the soft Imabari towels known throughout Japan. At the centre stands Imabari Castle, built by the castle architect Tōdō Takatora on the shore with moats fed by seawater.

The islands carry an older history: the Murakami sea clans, often called pirates, controlled the strait from island fortresses such as Noshima in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. On Ōmishima, the Ōyamazumi Shrine, guardian of the sea and of warriors, holds one of Japan's great collections of historic armour and swords.

Landmarks

  • Imabari Castle

    今治城Imabari-jō

    A sea castle by Tōdō Takatora with seawater moats and a reconstructed keep, counted among Japan's three great water castles.

  • Kurushima Kaikyō Bridge

    来島海峡大橋Kurushima Kaikyō Ōhashi

    Three linked suspension bridges about 4 km long over the tidal race, with a cycle path.

  • Murakami Kaizoku Museum

    今治市村上海賊ミュージアムImabari-shi Murakami Kaizoku Myūjiamu

    A museum on Ōshima facing the island fortress of Noshima, telling the story of the Murakami sea clans.

  • Ōyamazumi Shrine

    大山祇神社Ōyamazumi Jinja

    The ichinomiya of Iyo on Ōmishima, whose treasure hall holds many armours and swords designated National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties.

  • Kirosan Observatory

    亀老山展望公園Kirōsan Tenbō Kōen

    A viewpoint designed by Kuma Kengo on Ōshima overlooking the Kurushima Kaikyō Bridge.

  • Toyo Ito Museum of Architecture

    今治市伊東豊雄建築ミュージアムImabari-shi Itō Toyoo Kenchiku Myūjiamu

    A museum on Ōmishima devoted to the architect's work.

  • Imabari Towel Museum

    タオル美術館Taoru Bijutsukan

    A towel-themed museum and factory showroom in the inland district of Asakura.

Districts

  • City centre and port

    今治港周辺Imabari-kō shūhen

    The castle, station and ferry port for the islands.

  • Ōshima

    大島Ōshima

    The first island across the Kurushima bridge, with the pirate museum and granite quarries.

  • Hakatajima

    伯方島Hakatajima

    An island of shipyards, known for its sea salt.

  • Ōmishima

    大三島Ōmishima

    The sacred island of Ōyamazumi Shrine, with citrus groves and architecture museums.

  • Hashihama and Namikata

    波止浜・波方Hashihama, Namikata

    Shipbuilding coast facing the Kurushima Strait.

History

In the medieval period the Noshima, Kurushima and Innoshima branches of the Murakami clan controlled the Geiyo islands, levying tolls and escorting ships. After their power was curbed by Hideyoshi, Tōdō Takatora built Imabari Castle from 1602 on the coast. From 1635 a branch of the Hisamatsu-Matsudaira ruled Imabari until 1871.

Towel manufacturing began in 1894 and, together with shipbuilding, made Imabari one of Shikoku's main industrial cities. It became a city in 1920 and was heavily bombed in 1945. The Shimanami Kaido opened in 1999, and the 2005 merger with eleven towns and villages, many on the islands, created the present city.

  1. 15th–16th c.

    The Noshima Murakami clan rules the Kurushima Strait from its island fortress.

  2. 1602

    Tōdō Takatora begins building Imabari Castle on the shore.

  3. 1635

    Matsudaira Sadafusa becomes lord of Imabari.

  4. 1894

    Towel weaving begins in Imabari.

  5. 1920

    Imabari is incorporated as a city.

  6. 1945

    Air raids destroy most of the city.

  7. 1980

    A keep is reconstructed at Imabari Castle.

  8. 1999

    The Kurushima Kaikyō Bridge completes the Shimanami Kaido.

  9. 2005

    Imabari merges with eleven towns and villages, including the islands of the Shimanami Kaido.

  10. 2016

    The heritage of the Murakami sea clans is recognised as Japan Heritage.

Culture

Imabari's culture combines the pride of a working port with the memory of the sea clans. The Onmaku summer festival fills the centre with dance and fireworks, while on Ōmishima the Ōyamazumi Shrine keeps ancient rites such as hitori-zumō, a sumo bout between a wrestler and the invisible spirit of the rice. The Shimanami Kaido has made the city a hub for cycling, with rental bicycles and cyclist-friendly facilities across the islands.

Festivals

  • Onmaku Festival

    おんまくOnmaku

    Imabari's summer festival in August, with dance, parades and fireworks over the port.

  • Hitori-zumō

    一人角力Hitori-zumō

    At Ōyamazumi Shrine's rice-planting and harvest festivals, a wrestler grapples with the invisible rice spirit, who wins two bouts out of three.

Food

  • Imabari yakitori

    今治焼き鳥Imabari yakitori

    Chicken pressed flat on an iron griddle, especially crisp chicken skin.

  • Yakibuta tamago-meshi

    焼豚玉子飯Yakibuta tamago-meshi

    Rice topped with roast pork, fried eggs and a sweet sauce, a local fast-food classic.

  • Hakata salt

    伯方の塩Hakata no shio

    Sea salt associated with Hakatajima, used across Japan.

  • Island citrus

    島の柑橘Shima no kankitsu

    Mikan, lemons and other citrus from Ōmishima and the Shimanami islands.

  • Sea bream

    鯛Tai

    Sea bream from the strong currents of the strait, served as sashimi and tai-meshi.

Getting around

  • JR Imabari Station on the Yosan Line is about 40 minutes by limited express from Matsuyama.
  • Highway buses run across the Shimanami Kaido to Onomichi, Fukuyama and Hiroshima, stopping on the islands.
  • Rental bicycles can be hired in Imabari and returned at terminals along the route to Onomichi.
  • Ferries from Imabari Port serve the islands and cross to Hiroshima Prefecture.

Day trips

  • Onomichi

    尾道Onomichi

    The hillside temple town at the Honshu end of the Shimanami Kaido.

  • Matsuyama

    松山Matsuyama

    Dōgo Onsen and the hilltop castle, about 40 minutes by train.

  • Ikuchijima

    生口島Ikuchijima

    Kōsan-ji and lemon groves, on the Hiroshima side of the route.

  • Saijō and Ishizuchi-san

    西条・石鎚山Saijō, Ishizuchi-san

    Spring water town and the ropeway to western Japan's highest peak.

Other cities in the prefecture

CapitalMatsuyamaMatsuyama-shiCastle, hot spring and haiku in Shikoku's largest cityTownUchikoUchiko-chōThe town that grew rich on candle wax

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take to cycle the Shimanami Kaido?

The route of about 70 km takes most cyclists one day, or two with stops on the islands; the bridges have gentle ramps and dedicated lanes.

Can you see the Kurushima Strait currents up close?

Yes. Sightseeing boats from Ōshima and Hashihama run into the tidal race, where whirlpools and fast currents form at peak flow.

Were the Murakami really pirates?

They are often called pirates, but they functioned more as a sea militia, collecting tolls, guiding ships and fighting for regional lords.

Where can you buy Imabari towels?

At shops in the city and at the Imabari towel showrooms, as well as in department stores across Japan.

Related

Sources

  1. 1.今治市ホームページ (opens in a new tab) — 今治市
  2. 2.令和2年国勢調査 (opens in a new tab) — Statistics Bureau of Japan
  3. 3.日本遺産ポータルサイト (opens in a new tab) — 文化庁
  4. 4.瀬戸内海国立公園 (opens in a new tab) — 環境省

Editorial team · Published: