Ehime · Town
Uchiko
内子町うちこちょうUchiko-chōThe town that grew rich on candle wax
Uchiko is a small town in the mountains south-west of Matsuyama that grew rich on Japanese vegetable wax in the late Edo and Meiji periods. Its merchant street of Yōkaichi-Gokoku and the Uchiko-za theatre of 1916 are among the best-preserved historic townscapes in Shikoku.
Overview
Uchiko lies in the valley of the Oda River, a tributary of the Hiji, about half an hour by train from Matsuyama. In the Edo period it was a market town of the Ōzu domain on the road to the coast and the henro route, trading paper and wax. From the late eighteenth century its merchants refined mokurō, a vegetable wax pressed from the berries of the wax tree, and by the Meiji era Uchiko's bleached wax was exported as far as Europe and America.
The wealth of the wax trade built the street of Yōkaichi-Gokoku, some 600 metres of merchant houses with cream-coloured plaster walls, latticed windows and decorative plaster reliefs. The houses of the Hon-Haga and Kami-Haga families, the leading wax producers, show the scale of the business; the latter is an Important Cultural Property with a museum of wax making.
In 1916 the townspeople built the Uchiko-za, a two-storey wooden kabuki theatre with a revolving stage, which was restored in the 1980s and is still used for performances. Since the 2005 merger with Oda and Ikazaki, the town also includes terraced farmland, the spring kite battles of Ikazaki and the valley where the novelist Ōe Kenzaburō was born.
Landmarks
Yōkaichi-Gokoku
八日市護国Yōkaichi GokokuA street of merchant houses with plaster walls, namako tiles and lattice windows, an Important Preservation District.
Kami-Haga Residence
上芳我家住宅Kami-Haga-ke jūtakuThe home and workshops of a leading wax producer, an Important Cultural Property with a wax museum.
Hon-Haga Residence
本芳我家住宅Hon-Haga-ke jūtakuThe head family's house, with an elaborate plaster façade, an Important Cultural Property.
Uchiko-za
内子座Uchiko-zaA wooden kabuki theatre of 1916 with a revolving stage and box seating, still used for bunraku, kabuki and concerts.
Ōmori Japanese Candles
大森和蝋燭屋Ōmori warōsokuyaA workshop where craftsmen still hand-build candles from vegetable wax around paper wicks.
Museum of Commercial and Domestic Life
商いと暮らし博物館Akinai to Kurashi HakubutsukanA former pharmacy recreating the life of an early twentieth-century merchant household.
Izumidani terraced fields
泉谷の棚田Izumidani no tanadaRice terraces in the hills, counted among Japan's 100 finest terraced paddies.
Districts
Yōkaichi-Gokoku
八日市護国Yōkaichi GokokuThe preserved wax-merchant street in the north of the town.
Honmachi and the station area
本町HonmachiThe older commercial street linking the station, the Uchiko-za and the historic district.
Ikazaki
五十崎IkazakiRiverside district known for washi paper and kite fighting.
Oda
小田OdaThe mountainous upper valley with forests and hot springs.
History
Uchiko prospered under the Ōzu domain as a centre for paper and wax. Wax production began in the eighteenth century, and the invention of a bleaching technique in the nineteenth century allowed Uchiko to produce high-quality white wax for candles and cosmetics. Its peak came in the Meiji era, when wax was an export commodity.
The spread of electric light and petroleum-based paraffin ended the boom by the early twentieth century, which left the townscape largely untouched. Local residents began preserving the old street in the 1970s, and in 1982 it became an Important Preservation District. The Uchiko-za was restored in 1985. In 2005 Uchiko merged with Oda and Ikazaki.
18th c.
Wax production from the berries of the wax tree begins in Uchiko.
19th c.
Local merchants develop the bleaching of wax, making Uchiko white wax famous.
Meiji era
Uchiko wax is exported and the merchant houses of Yōkaichi-Gokoku are built.
1916
The Uchiko-za theatre opens to celebrate the enthronement of Emperor Taishō.
1982
Yōkaichi-Gokoku is designated an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings.
1985
The restored Uchiko-za reopens as a working theatre.
2005
Uchiko merges with the towns of Oda and Ikazaki.
2015
The Uchiko-za is designated an Important Cultural Property.
Culture
Uchiko has become a model for community-led preservation in Japan: residents restored houses and the theatre rather than rebuilding, and townscape protection extends into the surrounding villages. Traditional crafts continue in handmade candles and Ōzu washi from Ikazaki. In May the riverbank at Ikazaki fills for kite battles in which teams try to cut each other's lines.
Festivals
Ikazaki Kite Battle
五十崎凧合戦Ikazaki tako gassenOn 5 May, teams fly kites over the Oda River and try to cut rivals' lines with blades, a custom celebrating boys' growth.
Uchiko-za performances
内子座公演Uchiko-za kōenBunraku, kabuki and concerts staged in the 1916 theatre through the year.
Uchiko autumn festival
内子秋祭りUchiko aki matsuriShrine processions with portable shrines and lion dances in autumn.
Food
Imotaki
いもたきImotakiA taro and chicken stew cooked outdoors by the river at autumn moon-viewing gatherings.
Local produce
内子の農産物Uchiko no nōsanbutsuFruit, vegetables and processed foods sold at the farmers' roadside station on the river.
Uchiko wine
内子ワインUchiko wainWine made from grapes grown in the town's hills.
Getting around
- JR Uchiko Station on the Yosan Line is about 25 minutes from Matsuyama by limited express.
- The Uchiko-za is about 10 minutes' walk from the station, and Yōkaichi-Gokoku about 20 minutes.
- The historic district is compact and easy to explore on foot; rental bicycles are available.
- Henro pilgrims pass through Uchiko on the route between temples 43 and 44.
Day trips
Ōzu
大洲ŌzuA castle town on the Hiji River with a wooden reconstructed keep and the riverside villa Garyū Sansō, about 10 minutes by limited express.
- 松山Matsuyama
Dōgo Onsen and Matsuyama Castle, about 25 minutes by limited express.
- 宇和島Uwajima
The Date castle town and the Uwa Sea coast, further south.
Shikoku Karst
四国カルストShikoku karusutoA high limestone plateau on the Kōchi border, reached by car.
Other cities in the prefecture
Frequently asked questions
How long does it take to see Uchiko?
Half a day covers the Uchiko-za, Yōkaichi-Gokoku and the wax museum; combining it with Ōzu makes a full day.
Can you watch a performance at the Uchiko-za?
When no event is scheduled the theatre is open for viewing, including the backstage and the space under the revolving stage; performances are held on selected dates.
What is mokurō?
A vegetable wax pressed from the berries of the wax tree, used for traditional candles, hair oil and polish; Uchiko was one of its main production centres.
Is Uchiko on the Shikoku pilgrimage?
Yes. Walking pilgrims pass through the town on the long stretch between Temple 43, Meiseki-ji, and Temple 44, Daihō-ji.
Related
Sources
- 1.内子町ホームページ (opens in a new tab) — 内子町
- 2.令和2年国勢調査 (opens in a new tab) — Statistics Bureau of Japan
- 3.重要伝統的建造物群保存地区一覧 (opens in a new tab) — 文化庁
- 4.国指定文化財等データベース (opens in a new tab) — 文化庁