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Japan

Lakes · Nagano

Lake Suwa

諏訪湖すわこSuwa-ko

A shallow highland lake where the gods cross the ice

Lake Suwa (Suwa-ko) is the largest lake in Nagano Prefecture, a shallow lake at 759 metres in a tectonic basin at the heart of Japan. It is known for the omiwatari, ice ridges read as the passage of a god, and for the four shrines of Suwa Taisha around its shores.

Elevation: 759 mArea: 13.3 km²Maximum depth: 7.2 m

Overview

Lake Suwa lies in the Suwa basin in central Nagano Prefecture, shared by the cities of Suwa and Okaya and the town of Shimosuwa. It is small by area but important: the lake is the source of the Tenryū River, which flows some 200 kilometres south to the Pacific, and it has been the focus of the Suwa region's religion, fishing and industry for centuries.

The lake is very shallow – nowhere deeper than about seven metres – and freezes in cold winters. When the ice cracks and heaves into a ridge running across the lake, it is called omiwatari, 'the god's crossing', and is interpreted by the priests of Yatsurugi Shrine; records of the phenomenon go back to the 15th century and are now valued as one of the world's longest climate series.

Around the lake stand the four shrines of Suwa Taisha, one of Japan's oldest shrine complexes, and the hot-spring town of Kamisuwa. The lake's fireworks festival on 15 August is among the largest in Japan.

Landscape and formation

The Suwa basin lies where two of Japan's great fault systems meet: the Itoigawa-Shizuoka Tectonic Line, which marks the western edge of the Fossa Magna, and the Median Tectonic Line. Movement along the faults opened a pull-apart basin, which filled with water to form the lake. Sediment from inflowing rivers has made it shallow, and land reclamation has reduced its area over the past century.

Highlights

  • Suwa Taisha

    諏訪大社Suwa Taisha

    Grand shrine of four sites – Kamisha Honmiya and Maemiya south of the lake, Shimosha Harumiya and Akimiya to the north.

  • Takashima Castle

    高島城Takashima-jō

    Castle of the Suwa domain, once surrounded by the lake and called the 'floating castle'; the keep is a reconstruction.

  • Kamisuwa Onsen

    上諏訪温泉Kamisuwa Onsen

    Hot-spring town on the east shore, with ryokan along the lakeside.

  • Kamaguchi sluice

    釜口水門Kamaguchi Suimon

    Sluice gate at Okaya where the Tenryū River leaves the lake.

Ecology

Shallow and fed by a densely populated basin, Lake Suwa suffered severe algal blooms from the 1960s to the 1980s. Sewerage and conservation measures have improved the water considerably. The lake is known for wakasagi (pond smelt), once exported as eggs to lakes across Japan, and in winter it attracts ducks and swans.

Flora

  • Water chestnut and waterweeds

    Floating and submerged plants that spread widely in summer in the shallow lake.

Fauna

  • Pond smelt

    ワカサギwakasagi

    The lake's signature fish, traditionally caught through holes in the ice.

  • Wintering waterfowl

    Ducks and a small number of swans winter on open water near the river mouths.

Culture

Suwa Taisha is dedicated to Takeminakata, the deity who in legend crosses the frozen lake from the upper shrine to visit his consort Yasakatome at the lower shrine – the omiwatari. The Onbashira festival, held every six years in the years of the tiger and the monkey, sees giant fir trunks dragged down the mountains and raised at the corners of each shrine.

  • Omiwatari

    御神渡りomiwatari

    Ice ridge across the frozen lake, declared and interpreted by Yatsurugi Shrine; it has become rarer as winters have warmed.

  • Onbashira Festival

    御柱祭Onbashira-sai

    Festival every six years in which huge logs are ridden down slopes and erected at Suwa Taisha.

  • Suwa-ko Fireworks

    諏訪湖祭湖上花火大会Suwa-ko Matsuri Kojō Hanabi Taikai

    Fireworks over the lake on 15 August, amplified by the surrounding mountains.

History

  1. 1443

    The earliest surviving records of the omiwatari begin.

  2. 1598

    Takashima Castle is built on the lake shore.

  3. 1908

    The Sone site, a prehistoric settlement on the lake bed, is discovered.

  4. 1936

    Kamaguchi sluice is built to regulate the outflow into the Tenryū River.

Through the seasons

Spring

Cherry blossom at Takashima Castle and along the lakeside park.

Summer

The lakeside promenade and cycling; the fireworks festival on 15 August.

Autumn

Clear views to the Yatsugatake and the Japanese Alps.

Winter

In cold winters the lake freezes, and an omiwatari may be declared; ice fishing is only permitted when conditions allow.

Routes and trails

  • Lakeside cycling and walking path

    A flat path of about 16 km around the lake.

  • Suwa Taisha shrine circuit

    Visiting all four shrines takes most of a day by bus, bicycle or car.

Practical notes

  • Kamisuwa Station on the JR Chūō Line is about two and a half hours from Tokyo (Shinjuku) by limited express.
  • Lake ice is often unsafe; do not walk on it unless local authorities permit.
  • The Onbashira festival draws very large crowds.

Frequently asked questions

What is the omiwatari?

A ridge of pushed-up ice that forms across frozen Lake Suwa, believed to be the path of the Suwa deity crossing the lake. It has formed less often as winters have become milder.

When is the Onbashira festival?

Every six years, in the years of the tiger and the monkey in the Chinese zodiac, in spring (with further events later in the year).

How deep is Lake Suwa?

Only about seven metres at its deepest point.

When is the Lake Suwa fireworks festival?

On 15 August each year.

Sources

  1. 1.諏訪湖の概要(湖沼水質保全計画資料) (opens in a new tab) — 環境省
  2. 2.諏訪湖の特徴編 (opens in a new tab) — 長野県諏訪湖環境研究センター
  3. 3.諏訪大社 (opens in a new tab) — 諏訪大社

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