Fukui · City
Tsuruga
敦賀市つるがしTsuruga-shiKyoto's harbour on the Sea of Japan
Tsuruga is a port city on a deep bay in southern Fukui Prefecture, for centuries the nearest Sea of Japan harbour to Kyoto and Lake Biwa. It is known for the shrine Kehi Jingū, the pine grove of Kehi no Matsubara, its role as a gateway to Europe in the early twentieth century and as the terminus of the Hokuriku Shinkansen since 2024.
Overview
Tsuruga sits at the head of Tsuruga Bay, where the Sea of Japan comes closest to Lake Biwa and the Kyoto basin; only a low pass separates the bay from the lake. From ancient times this made it the main port through which goods, envoys and travellers from the mainland and the northern coast reached the capital, and rice, kombu and herring from Hokkaido were unloaded here for the overland journey south.
In the modern era Tsuruga became one of the first railway towns in Japan, linked to Lake Biwa in the 1880s, and in the early twentieth century a gateway to Europe: passengers travelled from Tokyo by train to Tsuruga, by ship to Vladivostok and on by the Trans-Siberian Railway. In 1920 the port received Polish orphans from Siberia, and in 1940 Jewish refugees who had been issued transit visas by the diplomat Sugihara Chiune landed here. These episodes are remembered in the Port of Humanity museum.
The city's economy today rests on its port, on the nuclear power stations of the Tsuruga peninsula and on its role as a transport hub; since 2024 it is the western terminus of the Hokuriku Shinkansen, where travellers change to limited expresses for Kyoto, Osaka and Nagoya.
Landmarks
Kehi Jingū
氣比神宮Kehi JingūThe chief shrine of Echizen, whose vermilion wooden torii is counted among Japan's three great torii.
Kehi no Matsubara
気比の松原Kehi no MatsubaraPine grove along the beach of Tsuruga Bay, one of Japan's three great pine groves and a Place of Scenic Beauty.
Port of Humanity Tsuruga Museum
人道の港 敦賀ムゼウムJindō no Minato Tsuruga MuzeumuMuseum on the Polish orphans of 1920 and the Jewish refugees of 1940.
Tsuruga Red Brick Warehouse
敦賀赤レンガ倉庫Tsuruga Aka-renga SōkoBrick warehouses of 1905 by the port, with a railway diorama of the old harbour.
Kanegasaki-gū
金崎宮Kanegasaki-gūShrine on the hill of Kanegasaki Castle, scene of battles in the fourteenth and sixteenth centuries.
Nihonkai Sakana-machi
日本海さかな街Nihonkai Sakana-machiLarge seafood market hall with fish shops and restaurants.
Districts
Station and Kehi avenue
敦賀駅周辺Tsuruga-eki shūhenThe avenue from the station to Kehi Jingū, lined with bronze statues from the anime Galaxy Express 999 and Space Battleship Yamato.
Kanegasaki and the port
金ヶ崎KanegasakiHarbour area with the Red Brick Warehouse, the museum and the castle hill.
Tsuruga Peninsula
敦賀半島Tsuruga hantōMountainous peninsula with fishing villages, beaches and power stations.
History
Kehi Jingū, the chief shrine of Echizen, is among the oldest in the region, and ancient chronicles record envoys from the Korean kingdoms and the Bohai state arriving at Tsuruga. In 1570 Oda Nobunaga's army, attacking the Asakura, was forced into a famous retreat from Kanegasaki Castle above the harbour. The poet Bashō visited Kehi Jingū in 1689 near the end of his Oku no Hosomichi journey.
The railway reached Tsuruga from Nagahama on Lake Biwa in 1882, and the port was opened to foreign trade in 1899. Through trains connecting with ships to Vladivostok began in 1912. Much of the city was destroyed in an air raid in July 1945. Japan's first commercial light-water reactor started operation at Tsuruga in 1970.
1570
Nobunaga's army retreats from Kanegasaki after the defection of Azai Nagamasa.
1689
Bashō visits Kehi Jingū on his Oku no Hosomichi journey.
1882
The railway from Nagahama reaches Tsuruga, among the first lines in Japan.
1899
Tsuruga is opened as a port for foreign trade.
1912
Boat trains from Tokyo connect with ships to Vladivostok and the Trans-Siberian Railway.
1920
Polish orphans rescued from Siberia arrive at Tsuruga.
1937
Tsuruga is incorporated as a city.
1940
Jewish refugees with Sugihara visas land at Tsuruga.
1970
The Tsuruga nuclear power station begins commercial operation.
2024
The Hokuriku Shinkansen is extended to Tsuruga.
Culture
As a port and railway town Tsuruga has a cosmopolitan past, which it commemorates through its links with Poland and Lithuania and the Sugihara story. Its kombu processors, who shave dried kelp by hand, are a legacy of the kitamaebune trade. The station avenue's statues from the manga of Matsumoto Leiji celebrate the city's connection with trains and ships. The long Kehi festival in September is the main civic celebration.
Festivals
Kehi no Nagamatsuri
氣比の長祭りKehi no NagamatsuriThe festival of Kehi Jingū, running for about two weeks in early September.
Tsuruga Festival
敦賀まつりTsuruga MatsuriCivic festival held with the Kehi festival, with parades of floats bearing warrior figures.
Tōrō nagashi
とうろう流しと大花火大会tōrō nagashi to ōhanabi taikaiSummer lantern floating and fireworks at Kehi no Matsubara on 16 August.
Food
Tsuruga ramen
敦賀ラーメンTsuruga rāmenPork-bone and soy ramen, a tradition of the city's night-time street stalls.
Oboro kombu
おぼろ昆布oboro konbuKombu shaved by hand into thin sheets, a craft of Tsuruga's kelp processors.
Sauce katsudon
ソースカツ丼sōsu katsudonFukui's sauce-dipped cutlet bowl, served widely in Tsuruga.
Echizen crab
越前がにEchizen-ganiWinter snow crab sold at the seafood market.
Getting around
- Tsuruga Station is the terminus of the Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo and Kanazawa; Thunderbird trains continue to Kyoto and Osaka (about an hour and a quarter to Osaka), and Shirasagi trains to Nagoya via Maibara.
- The JR Obama Line runs west along the Wakasa coast to Obama and Higashi-Maizuru; local trains run to Nagahama and Lake Biwa.
- Loop buses link the station with Kehi Jingū, the port area and Kehi no Matsubara.
- Shin Nihonkai ferries sail from Tsuruga to Tomakomai in Hokkaido.
Day trips
Mikata Five Lakes
三方五湖Mikata-gokoFive lakes of different colours and a ridge-top viewpoint on the Wakasa coast.
- 琵琶湖Biwa-ko
Japan's largest lake, reached over a low pass to the south.
Obama
小浜ObamaTemple town and start of the Saba Kaidō, with lacquered chopsticks and grilled mackerel.
- 福井市Fukui-shi
Prefectural capital with Ichijōdani, 20 minutes by Shinkansen.
Other cities in the prefecture
Frequently asked questions
Why do I have to change trains at Tsuruga?
Since 2024 the Hokuriku Shinkansen ends at Tsuruga; passengers to and from Kyoto, Osaka and Nagoya change there between the Shinkansen and limited express trains.
What is the Port of Humanity?
A name for Tsuruga recalling its reception of Polish orphans from Siberia in 1920 and of Jewish refugees with Sugihara Chiune's visas in 1940; the Port of Humanity Tsuruga Museum tells their stories.
What is Kehi Jingū known for?
It is the ichinomiya, or chief shrine, of Echizen province, and its great wooden torii is one of the three largest in Japan.
Is there anything to do near the station while changing trains?
Kehi Jingū is about 15 minutes' walk along the statue-lined avenue, and the seafood market and port area are a short bus ride away.
Related
Sources
- 1.令和2年国勢調査 (opens in a new tab) — Statistics Bureau of Japan
- 2.敦賀市ホームページ (opens in a new tab) — 敦賀市
- 3.Japan National Tourism Organization (opens in a new tab) — Japan National Tourism Organization