Fukushima · City
Aizu-Wakamatsu
会津若松市あいづわかまつしAizu-Wakamatsu-shiSamurai loyalty, red-tiled Tsuruga-jo and the sake of the Aizu basin
Aizu-Wakamatsu is the historic centre of the Aizu region in western Fukushima Prefecture, the castle town of the Aizu domain whose resistance in the Boshin War of 1868 made Tsuruga-jo and the Byakkotai youths famous throughout Japan.
Overview
Aizu-Wakamatsu lies in the south-east of the Aizu basin, a broad rice plain surrounded by mountains, with Mount Bandai and Lake Inawashiro just to the north-east. For almost three centuries it was the seat of the Aizu domain, one of the most important fiefs of northern Japan and a bastion of loyalty to the Tokugawa shogunate.
That loyalty defines the city's image. In 1868 the forces of the new Meiji government besieged the castle for a month; the tragedy of the Byakkotai, teenage soldiers who died on Iimori-yama, and the defence of the castle by men and women alike became part of Japan's national memory. The rebuilt keep of Tsuruga-jo, the samurai school Nisshinkan and the graves on Iimori-yama keep this history present.
The city is also a craft and brewing town. Aizu lacquerware, candles painted with flowers, the red ox akabeko and a cluster of sake breweries along its old streets continue traditions fostered by the domain, and Higashiyama Onsen in the eastern hills has served as the city's hot-spring retreat for centuries.
Landmarks
Tsuruga-jo
鶴ヶ城Tsuruga-jōCastle of the Aizu domain, officially Wakamatsu-jo; the reconstructed five-storey keep houses a museum and is the only one in Japan roofed with red glazed tiles. The grounds are a national historic site with some 1,000 cherry trees.
Rinkaku tea house
茶室麟閣Chashitsu RinkakuTea house in the castle grounds associated with Sen Shoan, son of Sen no Rikyu, who found refuge in Aizu under Gamo Ujisato.
Iimori-yama
飯盛山Iimori-yamaHill east of the centre with the graves of the Byakkotai, the viewpoint from which they saw the town in flames, and monuments to their memory.
Sazae-do
さざえ堂Sazae-dōHexagonal wooden hall of 1796 on Iimori-yama whose double-helix ramp lets visitors go up and down without crossing paths; an Important Cultural Property.
Nisshinkan
會津藩校日新館Aizu Hankō NisshinkanReconstruction of the domain school where samurai sons studied Confucian classics, martial arts and even swimming in armour.
Oyakuen
御薬園OyakuenLandscape garden of the Aizu lords with a pond, a villa and a medicinal herb garden; a nationally designated Place of Scenic Beauty.
Aizu Bukeyashiki
会津武家屋敷Aizu BukeyashikiOpen-air museum centred on a reconstruction of the residence of the domain's chief retainer Saigo Tanomo, whose family took their lives during the siege.
Nanokamachi-dori
七日町通りNanokamachi-dōriStreet of restored Meiji- and Taisho-era shops, storehouses and Western-style facades with lacquer, candle and sake shops.
Districts
Castle area
Tsuruga-jo, its moats and park, and the former samurai quarter to the south with the Oyakuen garden nearby.
Nanokamachi and Noguchi Hideyo Seishun-dori
七日町・野口英世青春通りNanokamachi, Noguchi Hideyo Seishun-dōriOld merchant streets west of the centre, including the street where Noguchi Hideyo underwent surgery on his hand and began his medical training.
Iimori-yama and Higashiyama
飯盛山・東山Iimori-yama, HigashiyamaEastern hills with the Byakkotai graves, Sazae-do, Aizu Bukeyashiki and the valley of Higashiyama Onsen.
Station area
Aizu-Wakamatsu Station in the north, starting point of the loop buses and of the Ban'etsu West and Tadami lines.
History
The Ashina clan ruled Aizu from the Middle Ages and built a fortress at Kurokawa, the forerunner of the castle. In 1589 Date Masamune conquered the region, but Toyotomi Hideyoshi soon transferred it to Gamo Ujisato, who rebuilt the castle with a seven-storey keep, named it Tsuruga-jo, laid out the castle town and renamed it Wakamatsu. After the brief rule of Uesugi Kagekatsu and the Kato family, Hoshina Masayuki took over in 1643, founding the line that ruled until the Meiji Restoration.
After the defeat of 1868 the domain's samurai were largely exiled to Tonami in the far north, and the castle keep was pulled down in 1874. Wakamatsu became a city in 1899, merged with neighbouring villages and took the name Aizu-Wakamatsu in 1955. The keep was reconstructed in 1965 and its roof restored with red glazed tiles in 2011.
1384
According to tradition, Ashina Naomori builds the Kurokawa fortress, forerunner of Tsuruga-jo.
1589
Date Masamune defeats the Ashina and occupies Kurokawa.
1592–1593
Gamo Ujisato renames the town Wakamatsu and completes a seven-storey keep, naming the castle Tsuruga-jo.
1643
Hoshina Masayuki becomes lord of Aizu.
1796
Construction of Sazae-do, a wooden hall with a double-helix ramp, on Iimori-yama.
1803
Completion of the domain school Nisshinkan.
1868
Siege of Tsuruga-jo during the Boshin War; members of the Byakkotai die on Iimori-yama; the castle surrenders after about a month.
1874
The damaged keep is demolished.
1899
Wakamatsu is incorporated as a city; renamed Aizu-Wakamatsu in 1955.
1965
The keep of Tsuruga-jo is reconstructed; its red-tiled roof is restored in 2011.
Culture
Aizu-Wakamatsu cultivates the ideals of the old domain: children still learn the Nisshinkan rules, and the Byakkotai are commemorated each spring and autumn on Iimori-yama. Crafts remain part of daily life – Aizu lacquerware, painted Aizu candles, akabeko and the round okiagari-koboshi tumbler dolls sold at the New Year market. Residents speak a Tohoku dialect with its own gentle intonation, and the local sake culture is lively, with brewery visits and tastings part of everyday hospitality.
Festivals
Aizu Festival
会津まつりAizu MatsuriHeld in late September; its centrepiece is the Aizu Hanko Gyoretsu, a procession of the successive lords of Aizu, the Byakkotai and the women's corps.
Toka-ichi
十日市Tōka-ichiNew Year market on 10 January in the centre, where people buy okiagari-koboshi tumbler dolls – one more than the members of the household.
Aizu Painted Candle Festival
会津絵ろうそくまつりAizu Erōsoku MatsuriWinter festival in February when thousands of candles light the snow at Tsuruga-jo and the Oyakuen garden.
Higan-jishi
彼岸獅子Higan-jishiLion dances performed through the city around the spring equinox to announce the end of winter.
Food
Kozuyu
こづゆkozuyuClear soup of dried scallop stock with taro, konjac, shiitake and wheat-gluten balls, served at weddings and New Year in shallow Aizu lacquer bowls.
Sauce katsudon
ソースカツ丼sōsu katsudonThick pork cutlet in sweet sauce on cabbage and rice, often so large that the lid will not close.
Wappa-meshi
わっぱ飯wappa-meshiRice steamed with salmon, mushrooms or mountain vegetables in round bentwood boxes.
Aizu dengaku
会津田楽Aizu dengakuTofu, rice cakes, taro and herring on skewers, coated with sweet miso and grilled over charcoal.
Basashi
馬刺しbasashiRaw horse meat, in Aizu usually lean red meat eaten with a garlic-and-chilli miso.
Aizu sake
会津の地酒Aizu no jizakeSake from breweries in the old town, several with tasting rooms, using basin rice and soft mountain water.
Getting around
- From Tokyo, the usual route is the Tohoku Shinkansen to Koriyama, then the JR Ban'etsu West Line to Aizu-Wakamatsu in a little over an hour; the whole journey takes around three hours.
- From the south, Tobu trains from Asakusa run via Kinugawa onto the Aizu Railway, which reaches Aizu-Wakamatsu via Ashinomaki Onsen.
- Two loop buses, Haikara-san and Akabe, connect the station with Nanokamachi, Tsuruga-jo, Iimori-yama and Higashiyama Onsen.
- The JR Tadami Line runs west through Oku-Aizu towards Niigata Prefecture; the Ban'etsu West Line continues north-west to Kitakata and Niigata.
Day trips
Ouchi-juku
大内宿Ōuchi-jukuEdo-period post town in Shimogo with a street of thatched houses, a nationally protected townscape famous for negi soba.
Kitakata
喜多方KitakataTown of earthen storehouses and ramen shops, about 20 minutes north by train.
Lake Inawashiro and Noguchi Hideyo Memorial Museum
猪苗代湖Inawashiro-koLarge lake at the foot of Mount Bandai, with the birthplace of Noguchi Hideyo on its northern shore.
- 磐梯山・裏磐梯Bandai-san, Urabandai
Volcano and the lake plateau its 1888 eruption created, with the Goshiki-numa ponds.
To-no-hetsuri
塔のへつりTō-no-hetsuriRiver cliffs eroded into tower-like forms on the Okawa, near a station of the Aizu Railway.
Other cities in the prefecture
Frequently asked questions
Who were the Byakkotai?
The Byakkotai were units of Aizu samurai aged around 16 and 17. In 1868 a group of them, seeing smoke over the town from Iimori-yama, believed the castle had fallen and took their own lives; their graves are on the hill.
Is Tsuruga-jo an original castle?
No. The original keep was demolished in 1874; the present keep is a 1965 reconstruction that houses a museum, while the stone walls and moats are original.
How many days are needed for Aizu-Wakamatsu?
One full day covers the castle, Iimori-yama and the old streets; a second day allows a trip to Ouchi-juku, Kitakata or Mount Bandai.
How do you get from Tokyo to Aizu-Wakamatsu?
Most travellers take the Tohoku Shinkansen to Koriyama and change to the Ban'etsu West Line; alternatively, Tobu and Aizu Railway trains run from Asakusa via Kinugawa.
Related
Sources
- 1.令和2年国勢調査 (opens in a new tab) — Statistics Bureau of Japan
- 2.会津若松市ホームページ (opens in a new tab) — 会津若松市
- 3.福島県ホームページ (opens in a new tab) — 福島県
- 4.Aizu-Wakamatsu (opens in a new tab) — Japan National Tourism Organization