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Ishikawa · Capital · Core city

Kanazawa

金沢市かなざわしKanazawa-shi

The Maeda family's city of gardens, tea houses and crafts

Kanazawa is the capital of Ishikawa Prefecture and the former seat of the Maeda lords of Kaga, the richest domain of Edo-period Japan. Spared from wartime bombing, it preserves geisha and samurai districts around its castle and Kenroku-en, one of Japan's three most celebrated gardens, and remains a centre of crafts such as gold leaf.

Overview

Kanazawa lies between two rivers, the Sai and the Asano, on the plain below the Hakusan mountains, a few kilometres from the Sea of Japan. At its centre stand the grounds of Kanazawa Castle and, beside them, the garden of Kenroku-en; around them spread the old castle town's samurai quarter of Nagamachi, the temple district of Teramachi and three chaya districts where geisha still entertain.

From 1583 to 1871 the city was the capital of the Maeda family, whose domain was assessed at over a million koku of rice. The Maeda channelled their wealth into culture, and Kanazawa became a city of tea, Noh and crafts. It avoided air raids in the Second World War, so its street pattern, winding lanes and many wooden buildings survive, making it one of the best-preserved Edo-period castle towns in Japan.

The modern city pairs this heritage with contemporary architecture and design, from the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art to the Tsuzumi Gate at the station. UNESCO designated Kanazawa a Creative City of Crafts and Folk Art in 2009, and since the arrival of the Hokuriku Shinkansen in 2015 it has been one of the most visited cities on the Sea of Japan coast.

Landmarks

  • Kenroku-en

    兼六園Kenroku-en

    Strolling garden of the Maeda lords, a Special Place of Scenic Beauty counted among Japan's three great gardens.

  • Kanazawa Castle Park

    金沢城公園Kanazawa-jō Kōen

    Castle grounds with the original Ishikawa Gate and reconstructed turrets and long storehouse.

  • Higashi Chaya District

    ひがし茶屋街Higashi Chaya-gai

    Street of latticed two-storey tea houses, a preserved historic district.

  • Nagamachi

    長町武家屋敷跡Nagamachi buke yashiki ato

    Samurai quarter of earthen walls and canals, with the Nomura family residence and its garden.

  • 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art

    金沢21世紀美術館Kanazawa Nijūisseiki Bijutsukan

    Circular glass museum by SANAA, known for works such as Leandro Erlich's Swimming Pool.

  • Ōmichō Market

    近江町市場Ōmichō Ichiba

    The city's food market since the Edo period, with fish stalls and seafood-rice bowls.

  • Myōryū-ji

    妙立寺Myōryū-ji

    Temple in Teramachi known as Ninja-dera for its hidden stairways and trap doors.

  • D. T. Suzuki Museum

    鈴木大拙館Suzuki Daisetsu-kan

    Contemplative museum by Taniguchi Yoshio around a still water garden.

  • Oyama Shrine

    尾山神社Oyama Jinja

    Shrine to Maeda Toshiie, with a gate of 1875 topped by a stained-glass window.

Districts

  • Higashiyama

    東山Higashiyama

    The largest chaya district, across the Asano River, with gold-leaf shops and cafés.

  • Kazuemachi

    主計町Kazuemachi

    Small riverside tea-house quarter on the Asano.

  • Nishi Chaya

    にし茶屋街Nishi Chaya-gai

    Quieter geisha district across the Sai River, near Teramachi.

  • Teramachi

    寺町Teramachi

    District of dozens of temples laid out as a defensive line south of the Sai.

  • Kōrinbō and Katamachi

    香林坊Kōrinbō

    Downtown shopping and nightlife area between the castle and the Sai River.

History

In the sixteenth century Kanazawa was the site of Oyama Gobō, the fortified temple from which the Ikkō sect ruled Kaga. After its capture in 1580 the site became a castle, and Maeda Toshiie made it his seat in 1583. Under the Maeda the city grew to one of the largest in Japan, with a population comparable to that of the imperial capital Kyoto.

After the Meiji Restoration Kanazawa lost its role as a domain capital but became the prefectural seat, a garrison town and an educational centre, home of the Fourth Higher School. The castle grounds housed Kanazawa University from 1949 until 1995; they have since been restored as a park, with several buildings rebuilt using traditional techniques.

  1. 1546

    The Ikkō sect builds the fortified temple Oyama Gobō on the site of the future castle.

  2. 1580

    Oda forces take Oyama Gobō and a castle is built.

  3. 1583

    Maeda Toshiie enters Kanazawa.

  4. 1676

    The fifth lord, Maeda Tsunanori, lays out a garden that becomes the core of Kenroku-en.

  5. 1820

    The Higashi and Nishi chaya districts are officially established.

  6. 1889

    Kanazawa is incorporated as a city.

  7. 1949

    Kanazawa University opens on the castle grounds.

  8. 2004

    The 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art opens.

  9. 2009

    Kanazawa joins the UNESCO Creative Cities Network for crafts and folk art.

  10. 2015

    The Hokuriku Shinkansen reaches Kanazawa.

Culture

Kanazawa sees itself as a city of crafts, with gold leaf, Kaga yūzen, lacquer, Ōhi pottery and Kutani porcelain made and sold in the city. Tea culture is everyday rather than ceremonial, and the city's confectioners supply the sweets. Geisha perform in the Higashi, Nishi and Kazuemachi districts, and the Kaga Hōshō school keeps Noh alive at the prefectural Noh theatre. In winter, the rope supports called yukizuri, fixed to the pines of Kenroku-en from November, have become a seasonal emblem of the city.

Festivals

  • Hyakumangoku Festival

    金沢百万石まつりKanazawa Hyakumangoku Matsuri

    Early June festival with a costumed parade re-enacting Maeda Toshiie's entry and floating lanterns on the Asano River.

  • Yukizuri

    雪吊りyukizuri

    The installation of snow ropes on Kenroku-en's pines in November marks the start of winter.

  • Kenroku-en seasonal openings

    兼六園Kenroku-en

    The garden is illuminated in the cherry-blossom season and in winter.

Food

  • Jibuni

    治部煮jibuni

    Flour-coated duck simmered with wheat gluten and vegetables, the signature Kaga dish.

  • Kaisen-don

    海鮮丼kaisen-don

    Rice bowls topped with sweet shrimp, crab and fish, served around Ōmichō Market.

  • Kanazawa oden

    金沢おでんKanazawa oden

    Oden eaten all year, with local additions such as crab in its shell.

  • Kanazawa curry

    金沢カレーKanazawa karē

    Thick, dark curry on rice with a breaded cutlet and shredded cabbage, served on a steel plate.

  • Wagashi

    和菓子wagashi

    Tea sweets from long-established confectioners; Kanazawa is one of Japan's great sweets cities.

Getting around

  • Kanazawa Station is on the Hokuriku Shinkansen, about two and a half hours from Tokyo, and the IR Ishikawa Railway along the coast.
  • The city centre is served by frequent loop buses from the station; Kenroku-en, the castle and the 21st Century Museum lie within walking distance of each other, about 20 minutes' walk from the station.
  • Shared bicycles are widely available in the centre.
  • Komatsu Airport is about 40 minutes by limousine bus; the Hokutetsu Asanogawa Line runs from the station to the northern suburbs.

Day trips

  • Shirakawa-gō

    白川郷Shirakawa-gō

    Gasshō-zukuri village in Gifu, about 75 minutes by express bus.

  • Gokayama

    五箇山Gokayama

    The smaller, quieter thatched villages of the Shirakawa-gō and Gokayama World Heritage Site.

  • Kaga Onsen

    加賀温泉郷Kaga onsenkyō

    Yamanaka, Yamashiro and Katayamazu hot springs and Kutani kilns.

  • Takaoka

    高岡Takaoka

    Maeda-founded town of bronze casters with the Zen temple Zuiryū-ji.

  • Hakusan

    白山Hakusan

    Sacred mountain and national park in the south of the prefecture.

Other cities in the prefecture

CityKagaKaga-shiHot springs, porcelain and lacquer in southern KagaCityWajimaWajima-shiLacquer town on the northern shore of Noto

Frequently asked questions

How many days do I need in Kanazawa?

Two days cover Kenroku-en, the castle, the chaya and samurai districts, Ōmichō Market and the 21st Century Museum; a third allows a day trip to Shirakawa-gō or the Kaga hot springs.

Why is Kanazawa called 'Little Kyoto'?

Because, like Kyoto, it escaped wartime bombing and preserves tea-house districts, temples and traditional crafts; unlike Kyoto it was a samurai castle town rather than an imperial capital.

What is Kenroku-en?

The former outer garden of Kanazawa Castle, developed by the Maeda lords from the 1670s and named for six qualities of an ideal garden; it is one of Japan's three great gardens.

How do I get from Kanazawa to Shirakawa-gō?

Express buses run from Kanazawa Station to Shirakawa-gō in about 75 minutes, some continuing to Takayama; reservations are recommended in busy seasons.

Why is there gold leaf on food in Kanazawa?

Kanazawa produces almost all of Japan's gold leaf, and shops use edible leaf on soft-serve ice cream, sweets and drinks as a local speciality.

Related

Sources

  1. 1.令和2年国勢調査 (opens in a new tab) — Statistics Bureau of Japan
  2. 2.金沢市ホームページ (opens in a new tab) — 金沢市
  3. 3.石川県ホームページ (opens in a new tab) — 石川県
  4. 4.Japan National Tourism Organization (opens in a new tab) — Japan National Tourism Organization

Editorial team · Published: