Naoshima

直島町なおしまちょうNaoshima-chō

Contemporary art on an Inland Sea island

Naoshima is a small island town in the Seto Inland Sea, part of Kagawa Prefecture but closer to Okayama, that has become one of the world's best-known destinations for contemporary art. Its museums by Andō Tadao, including the Chichu Art Museum, and the Art House Project in an old fishing village form the core of Benesse Art Site Naoshima.

Overview

Naoshima lies about 13 kilometres north of Takamatsu and only a few kilometres south of the port of Uno in Okayama. The town comprises the main island, about 8 square kilometres of granite hills and coves, and two dozen smaller islets. For much of the twentieth century its economy depended on fishing and on a copper smelter founded in 1917 on the island's north side, which still operates.

From the late 1980s the Fukutake family, owners of the Benesse education company, began transforming the island's south coast with a camp, a hotel-museum and then a series of buildings by Andō Tadao. The Chichu Art Museum, set largely underground so as not to disturb the landscape, holds works by Claude Monet, Walter De Maria and James Turrell lit by daylight. In the old village of Honmura, abandoned houses, a shrine and a temple site were turned into permanent artworks in the Art House Project.

Today Naoshima is the hub of the art islands of the Inland Sea, together with Teshima, Inujima and others, and a main venue of the Setouchi Triennale. Yayoi Kusama's polka-dot pumpkins, one yellow on a pier by Benesse House and one red at Miyanoura port, have become symbols of the island.

Landmarks

Chichu Art Museum
地中美術館Chichū Bijutsukan
An underground museum by Andō Tadao with Monet's Water Lilies, a room by Walter De Maria and light works by James Turrell; entry is by timed ticket.
Benesse House Museum
ベネッセハウスミュージアムBenesse Hausu Myūjiamu
A museum and hotel on the south coast where guests sleep among works of contemporary art.
Art House Project
家プロジェクトIe Purojekuto
Old houses and sites in Honmura turned into artworks, including Minamidera by Andō and James Turrell and Go'o Shrine by Sugimoto Hiroshi.
Lee Ufan Museum
李禹煥美術館Ri Ufan Bijutsukan
A half-buried Andō building devoted to the Korean-born artist of the Mono-ha movement.
Yellow Pumpkin
南瓜Kabocha
Yayoi Kusama's polka-dot sculpture at the end of a pier on the south coast.
Red Pumpkin and Miyanoura port
赤かぼちゃAka kabocha
Kusama's walk-in red pumpkin beside the ferry terminal designed by SANAA.
Naoshima Bath I♥湯
直島銭湯「I♥湯」Naoshima sentō "Ai rabu yu"
A public bathhouse designed as an artwork by Ōtake Shinrō near Miyanoura port.
Ando Museum
ANDO MUSEUMAndō Myūjiamu
A concrete interior inserted into a century-old wooden house in Honmura, presenting Andō's work on the island.

Districts

Miyanoura
宮浦Miyanoura
The main ferry port on the west coast, with the Red Pumpkin, bathhouse and cafés.
Honmura
本村Honmura
The old castle-town village on the east coast, home of the Art House Project.
Benesse area
ベネッセエリアBenesse eria
The southern coast with the museums, the hotel and outdoor sculptures.
Tsumu-ura and the north
積浦Tsumu-ura
The industrial north with the refinery, largely outside the art area.

History

According to tradition, the exiled Emperor Sutoku stayed on Naoshima in 1156 before moving to the mainland. In the Edo period the island was shogunal territory and a base of seafarers. In 1917 Mitsubishi opened a copper refinery at the north end, bringing industry and population but also environmental damage to the island's vegetation.

In 1989 the Naoshima International Camp, supervised by Andō Tadao, opened on the south coast, followed by Benesse House in 1992. The Art House Project began in Honmura in 1998, and the Chichu Art Museum opened in 2004. Since 2010 Naoshima has been a principal venue of the Setouchi Triennale.

1156
Retired Emperor Sutoku is said to stay on Naoshima at the start of his exile.
1917
Mitsubishi opens a copper refinery on the north of the island.
1989
The Naoshima International Camp opens under the supervision of Andō Tadao.
1992
Benesse House, a museum and hotel by Andō, opens.
1994
Yayoi Kusama's Pumpkin is installed on the pier near Benesse House.
1998
The Art House Project begins with Kadoya in Honmura.
2004
The Chichu Art Museum opens.
2010
The Lee Ufan Museum opens, and the first Setouchi Triennale is held.
2025
The Naoshima New Museum of Art, by Andō, opens near Honmura.

Culture

Naoshima's culture blends everyday island life with international art. Residents' houses carry indigo noren curtains made for the town, and the art projects were developed in dialogue with the community, part of an effort to revive a depopulating island. During the Setouchi Triennale the number of visitors multiplies, and the island hosts temporary works alongside its permanent collection.

Festivals

Setouchi Triennale
瀬戸内国際芸術祭Setouchi Kokusai Geijutsusai
Held every three years since 2010 in spring, summer and autumn sessions across the Inland Sea islands.
Naoshima Onna Bunraku
直島女文楽Naoshima onna bunraku
A rare tradition of puppet theatre performed by women, preserved on the island and staged at local events.
Hachiman Shrine Autumn Festival
八幡神社秋季大祭Hachiman Jinja shūki taisai
The island's traditional autumn festival with portable shrines.

Food

Inland Sea fish
瀬戸内の魚Setouchi no sakana
Sea bream, octopus and small fish served in island restaurants and at the Benesse hotels.
Sanuki udon
讃岐うどんSanuki udon
Simple udon shops near Miyanoura serve islanders and visitors.
Island cafés
古民家カフェKominka kafe
Cafés in old houses in Honmura and Miyanoura, many run by residents.

Getting around

Ferries and high-speed boats run from Takamatsu Port to Miyanoura in about 50 and 30 minutes, and from Uno in Okayama in about 20 minutes; small boats also serve Honmura.
A town bus links Miyanoura, Honmura and the Benesse area, where a shuttle serves the museums.
Rental bicycles, including electric bicycles, are a popular way to get around the hilly island.
Several museums require advance timed tickets, and most facilities close on one weekday; check Benesse Art Site Naoshima's official site before visiting.

Day trips

Teshima
豊島Teshima
The Teshima Art Museum by Nishizawa Ryūe and Naitō Rei, a short ferry ride away.
Takamatsu
高松Takamatsu
Ritsurin Garden and the port city across the sea.
Okayama and Kurashiki
岡山・倉敷Okayama, Kurashiki
Reached via Uno port; the Ohara Museum of Art complements the island's collections.
Shōdoshima
小豆島Shōdoshima
Olive groves and Triennale works on the larger island to the east.
Inujima
犬島Inujima
A former copper-refinery island in Okayama transformed into an art museum.

Other cities in the prefecture

CapitalTakamatsuTakamatsu-shiGarden city and gateway to the art islands TownKotohiraKotohira-chōThe seafarers' shrine at the top of the steps CityMarugameMarugame-shiA keep on towering walls and the fan-makers' port

Frequently asked questions

How do you get to Naoshima?

By ferry from Takamatsu (about 50 minutes, or 30 by high-speed boat) or from Uno in Okayama (about 20 minutes). Uno is about an hour by train from Okayama Station.

Do you need to book the Chichu Art Museum?

Yes. Entry is by timed ticket booked online in advance, and popular slots sell out, especially during the Triennale.

Is one day enough for Naoshima?

A day covers the main museums if well planned, but an overnight stay allows a slower visit and combining Naoshima with Teshima or Inujima.

Is Naoshima in Kagawa or Okayama?

It belongs to Kagawa Prefecture, although it lies closer to the Okayama coast and is reached by the shortest ferry from Uno.

Sources

1.直島町ホームページ (opens in a new tab) — 直島町
2.令和2年国勢調査 (opens in a new tab) — Statistics Bureau of Japan
3.Benesse Art Site Naoshima (opens in a new tab) — Fukutake Foundation / Benesse Holdings
4.瀬戸内国際芸術祭 (opens in a new tab) — 瀬戸内国際芸術祭実行委員会
5.瀬戸内海国立公園 (opens in a new tab) — 環境省