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Kagawa · Capital · Core city

Takamatsu

高松市たかまつしTakamatsu-shi

Garden city and gateway to the art islands

Takamatsu is the capital of Kagawa Prefecture and the main port of northern Shikoku on the Seto Inland Sea. It is known for Ritsurin Garden, the sea-water moats of Takamatsu Castle, the mesa of Yashima and as the ferry gateway to Naoshima, Teshima and Shōdoshima.

Overview

Takamatsu faces the islands of the Seto Inland Sea from the centre of the Sanuki coast. For most of the twentieth century it was the gateway to Shikoku, the terminus of the ferries from Uno in Okayama; since the Great Seto Bridge opened, trains from Okayama arrive in under an hour, and the port has turned towards the islands, with frequent ferries to Naoshima, Teshima, Megijima and Shōdoshima.

The city grew around Takamatsu Castle, a sea castle whose moats are still filled with seawater. Under the Matsudaira lords it acquired Ritsurin Garden, one of Japan's finest stroll gardens, set against the pine-covered slope of Mount Shiun. East of the centre the flat-topped mesa of Yashima, site of a famous battle in 1185, rises above the bay, and the stone-carving district of Mure is home to the Isamu Noguchi Garden Museum.

Takamatsu has the long covered shopping arcades typical of Shikoku's cities, a modernist legacy that includes Tange Kenzō's prefectural office, and several henro temples on its outskirts. Above all, it is a city of udon, with shops serving Sanuki noodles on almost every street.

Landmarks

  • Ritsurin Garden

    栗林公園Ritsurin Kōen

    A stroll garden of six ponds and thirteen artificial hills against Mount Shiun, a Special Place of Scenic Beauty.

  • Takamatsu Castle (Tamamo Park)

    高松城跡（玉藻公園）Takamatsu-jō ato (Tamamo Kōen)

    One of Japan's great sea castles, with seawater moats in which sea bream swim and two original turrets.

  • Yashima

    屋島Yashima

    A lava mesa with views over the Inland Sea, the battle site of 1185 and Yashima-ji, Temple 84.

  • Shikoku Mura

    四国村Shikoku Mura

    An open-air museum of farmhouses, storehouses and a vine bridge relocated from across Shikoku, at the foot of Yashima.

  • Isamu Noguchi Garden Museum

    イサム・ノグチ庭園美術館Isamu Noguchi Teien Bijutsukan

    The sculptor's studio and stone works in Mure, visited by advance reservation.

  • Kagawa Prefectural Office East Building

    香川県庁舎東館Kagawa kenchōsha Higashi-kan

    Tange Kenzō's concrete government building of 1958, an Important Cultural Property.

  • Yakuri-ji

    八栗寺Yakuri-ji

    Henro Temple 85 on the mountain of Goken-zan, reached by cable car.

  • Megijima

    女木島Megijima

    An island twenty minutes by ferry, with a cave linked to the Momotarō ogre legend.

Districts

  • Sunport and station

    サンポートSanpōto

    The waterfront with the station, ferry terminals and the glass lighthouse at the harbour mouth.

  • Central arcades

    中央商店街Chūō shōtengai

    Linked covered arcades running south from the castle, among the longest in Japan.

  • Kitahama Alley

    北浜alleyKitahama arī

    Converted port warehouses with cafés and shops.

  • Yashima

    屋島Yashima

    The eastern district with the mesa, Shikoku Mura and the Kotoden Shido Line.

  • Mure and Aji

    牟礼・庵治Mure, Aji

    The granite-quarrying peninsula of stone carvers and fishing ports.

History

Ikoma Chikamasa, granted Sanuki by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, built Takamatsu Castle on the shore from 1588, naming the castle town after an older settlement. After the Ikoma were removed in 1640, Matsudaira Yorishige, a grandson of Tokugawa Ieyasu, received the domain in 1642; his successors completed Ritsurin Garden in 1745.

Takamatsu became a city in 1890. The Uno–Takamatsu ferry, opened in 1910, made it Shikoku's main gateway. An air raid on 4 July 1945 destroyed most of the centre. The Great Seto Bridge of 1988 ended the ferry era, and the city became a core city in 1999. Since 2010 the Setouchi Triennale has made its port the hub of the art islands.

  1. 1185

    The Minamoto defeat the Taira at the battle of Yashima.

  2. 1588

    Ikoma Chikamasa begins building Takamatsu Castle on the coast.

  3. 1642

    Matsudaira Yorishige becomes lord of Takamatsu.

  4. 1745

    Ritsurin Garden is completed after about a century of work.

  5. 1890

    Takamatsu is incorporated as a city.

  6. 1910

    The Uno–Takamatsu ferry opens, linking Shikoku with Honshu's railways.

  7. 1945

    An air raid on 4 July destroys most of the city.

  8. 1958

    Tange Kenzō's Kagawa Prefectural Government Office is completed.

  9. 1988

    The Great Seto Bridge replaces the rail ferry.

  10. 1999

    Takamatsu becomes a core city.

Culture

Takamatsu's culture mixes the refinement of the Matsudaira court, visible at Ritsurin and in lacquer and tea traditions, with a modern design heritage shaped by Tange Kenzō, Isamu Noguchi and the stone carvers of Aji and Mure. During the Setouchi Triennale, installations appear around the port, and the city serves as the base for island hopping. Many residents eat udon for breakfast or lunch several times a week.

Festivals

  • Sanuki Takamatsu Festival

    さぬき高松まつりSanuki Takamatsu Matsuri

    Mid-August festival with a dance parade and fireworks over the harbour.

  • Setouchi Triennale

    瀬戸内国際芸術祭Setouchi Kokusai Geijutsusai

    The international art festival held every three years, with Takamatsu Port as its hub.

  • Ritsurin seasonal openings

    栗林公園ライトアップRitsurin Kōen raito appu

    Evening illuminations of the garden for cherry blossoms and autumn leaves.

Food

  • Sanuki udon

    讃岐うどんSanuki udon

    Served at self-service shops from early morning, with tempura and toppings to choose.

  • Honetsuki-dori

    骨付鳥Honetsuki-dori

    Garlic-roasted chicken leg, served in izakaya with beer.

  • Shōyu-mame

    しょうゆ豆Shōyu-mame

    Roasted broad beans soaked in sweet soy sauce, a traditional side dish.

  • Inland Sea fish

    瀬戸内の魚Setouchi no sakana

    Sea bream, octopus and small fish from the islands, served as sashimi.

Getting around

  • JR Takamatsu Station is the terminus of the Marine Liner from Okayama and of limited expresses to Matsuyama, Kōchi and Tokushima.
  • The Kotoden (Takamatsu-Kotohira Electric Railway) runs three lines: to Kotohira, to Yashima and Shido, and to Nagao.
  • The ferry terminals at Sunport, next to the station, serve Naoshima, Teshima, Megijima, Ogijima, Shōdoshima and Kobe.
  • Takamatsu Airport is about 40 minutes by bus; the flat centre is easy to explore by rental bicycle.

Day trips

  • Naoshima

    直島Naoshima

    The art island, about 50 minutes by ferry.

  • Shōdoshima

    小豆島Shōdoshima

    Olive groves, soy-sauce breweries and Kankakei gorge, under an hour by high-speed boat.

  • Kotohira

    琴平Kotohira

    The mountain shrine of Kotohira-gū, about an hour by Kotoden.

  • Marugame

    丸亀Marugame

    An original castle keep on high stone walls, about 25 minutes by train.

  • Okayama and Kurashiki

    岡山・倉敷Okayama, Kurashiki

    Across the Great Seto Bridge, under an hour by train.

Other cities in the prefecture

TownKotohiraKotohira-chōThe seafarers' shrine at the top of the stepsCityMarugameMarugame-shiA keep on towering walls and the fan-makers' portTownNaoshimaNaoshima-chōContemporary art on an Inland Sea island

Frequently asked questions

How much time do you need for Ritsurin Garden?

About one and a half to two hours for a full walk; a boat trip on the southern pond and tea in the Kikugetsu-tei teahouse are also offered.

Is Takamatsu a good base for the art islands?

Yes. Ferries to Naoshima, Teshima, Megijima, Ogijima and Shōdoshima leave from the port next to the station.

How do you order at a self-service udon shop?

Choose the size and style of noodles at the counter, add tempura or toppings from the trays, pay at the end and help yourself to condiments and broth where offered.

How do you get from Takamatsu to Kotohira?

By the Kotoden Kotohira Line from Takamatsu-Chikkō or Kawaramachi, or by JR limited express, in about an hour.

Related

Sources

  1. 1.高松市ホームページ (opens in a new tab) — 高松市
  2. 2.令和2年国勢調査 (opens in a new tab) — Statistics Bureau of Japan
  3. 3.香川県ホームページ (opens in a new tab) — 香川県
  4. 4.四国八十八ヶ所霊場会 (opens in a new tab) — 四国八十八ヶ所霊場会

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