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Chūgoku · Prefecture · JP-32

Shimane

島根県しまねけんShimane-ken

The land of the gods on the Sea of Japan

Shimane is a long, thinly populated prefecture on the Sea of Japan coast of western Honshu, made up of the old provinces of Izumo, Iwami and Oki. It is the setting of many of Japan's founding myths and home to Izumo Taisha, Matsue Castle and the Iwami Ginzan World Heritage site.

Overview

Shimane extends for about 230 kilometres along the Sea of Japan, from the lagoons of Nakaumi and Lake Shinji in the east to the mountains behind Tsuwano in the west, and includes the Oki Islands some 50 kilometres offshore. It is one of the least populous prefectures, and one of the most rural, with a population concentrated in the Izumo plain.

The eastern province of Izumo holds an exceptional place in Japanese mythology. The Kojiki and the Izumo Fudoki set the stories of Susanoo and the eight-headed serpent Yamata no Orochi, and of Ōkuninushi, the god of the land, here; Izumo Taisha, dedicated to Ōkuninushi, is among the oldest and most important shrines in Japan. Matsue, the capital, keeps one of the twelve original castle keeps and the lakeside atmosphere described by Lafcadio Hearn.

The western province of Iwami was the site of the Iwami Ginzan silver mine, which supplied much of the silver that made Japan a major exporter in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Oki Islands, a UNESCO Global Geopark, preserve their own culture of exiled emperors, bull-sumo and grazing horses.

Name and origins

The prefecture is named after Shimane District (島根郡), the district of the Shimane peninsula in which Matsue lies; the name is recorded in the Izumo Fudoki of 733. Its meaning is uncertain, though it is usually read as "island roots", referring to the peninsula's island-like shape.

Shimane combines three provinces: Izumo, ruled in the Edo period by the Matsudaira of Matsue; Iwami, divided between the Hamada and Tsuwano domains and the shogunate's silver-mine territory; and the island province of Oki. After 1871 the prefectures of Shimane and Hamada were merged, Tottori was attached from 1876 to 1881, and the present borders date from 1881.

Cities

CapitalMatsueMatsue-shiThe water city of the Matsudaira between two lakesCityIzumoIzumo-shiWhere the gods of Japan gatherTownTsuwanoTsuwano-chōThe Little Kyoto of San'in in a mountain valley

Geography

The Chūgoku Mountains run along Shimane's southern border, and short rivers drop steeply to a coast of small plains, sandy beaches and rocky headlands. The largest lowland is the Izumo plain, built up by the Hii River, which flows into Lake Shinji; the lake drains through Matsue into the brackish Nakaumi and the sea.

The Gōnokawa, the longest river in the Chūgoku region, crosses the Iwami area to the sea at Gōtsu. Mount Sanbe, a dormant volcano, rises in central Shimane. Offshore, the Oki Islands consist of the large island of Dōgo and the three Dōzen islands around a collapsed caldera.

Climate

Shimane has a Sea of Japan climate with humid summers and cloudy winters. Snowfall is moderate on the coast, heavier inland and in the Okuizumo highlands. Iwami in the west is somewhat milder and drier than Izumo, and the Oki Islands are moderated by the Tsushima Current.

Landscape

  • Lake Shinji

    宍道湖Shinji-ko

    A brackish lake west of Matsue known for its sunsets and shijimi clams; a Ramsar site together with Nakaumi.

  • Nakaumi

    中海Nakaumi

    A large brackish lagoon shared with Tottori, linked to Lake Shinji by the Ōhashi River through Matsue.

  • Oki Islands

    隠岐諸島Oki-shotō

    Four inhabited islands and many islets, a UNESCO Global Geopark with sea cliffs such as Matengai on Nishinoshima; part of Daisen-Oki National Park.

  • Mount Sanbe

    三瓶山Sanbe-san

    A 1,126-metre volcano in central Shimane with grassy slopes and a ring of peaks; an ancient buried forest was found at its foot.

  • Hii River

    斐伊川Hii-kawa

    The river of the Izumo plain, associated with the myth of the serpent Yamata no Orochi.

  • Gōnokawa

    江の川Gō-no-kawa

    The longest river in the Chūgoku region, rising in Hiroshima and reaching the Sea of Japan at Gōtsu.

  • Shimane Peninsula

    島根半島Shimane-hantō

    A mountainous ridge of coast north of Matsue and Izumo, from Hinomisaki to Mihonoseki.

Nature in this prefecture

National ParksDaisen-Oki National ParkDaisen-Oki Kokuritsu KōenThe sacred mountain of Hōki and the islands of exile1729 mLakesLake ShinjiShinji-koA brackish lake of clams, waterfowl and sunsets

World Heritage in this prefecture

Inscribed 2007Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine and its Cultural LandscapeThe silver mine that drew Japan into global tradeCultural

History

Izumo was a powerful centre in the Yayoi and Kofun periods. The discovery in 1984 of 358 bronze swords at Kōjindani and in 1996 of 39 bronze bells at Kamo-Iwakura confirmed that the region was far more important than had been assumed. Its distinctive square burial mounds with projecting corners are found across the San'in coast.

In the medieval period the Oki Islands were a place of exile for the emperors Go-Toba and Go-Daigo. From the sixteenth century the Iwami Ginzan silver mine drew the attention of the Ōuchi, Amago and Mōri clans, and after 1600 it became direct territory of the Tokugawa shogunate. Matsue Castle was completed in 1611, and from 1638 the Matsudaira ruled Izumo, fostering tea culture and crafts. Hamada Castle fell to Chōshū forces in 1866. Iwami Ginzan was inscribed as a World Heritage site in 2007.

  1. 733

    The Izumo Fudoki is completed, the only provincial gazetteer of its period to survive almost intact.

  2. 1221

    Retired Emperor Go-Toba is exiled to the Oki Islands after the Jōkyū War; he dies there in 1239.

  3. 1332–1333

    Emperor Go-Daigo is exiled to Oki and escapes to launch the Kenmu Restoration.

  4. 1526

    The merchant Kamiya Jutei begins large-scale development of the Iwami Ginzan silver mine.

  5. 1611

    Horio Yoshiharu completes Matsue Castle and its castle town.

  6. 1638

    Matsudaira Naomasa becomes lord of Matsue; the Matsudaira rule Izumo until 1871.

  7. 1866

    In the Second Chōshū Expedition, Chōshū troops take Hamada Castle.

  8. 1881

    Shimane Prefecture takes its present form after Tottori is separated again.

  9. 1984

    358 Yayoi-period bronze swords are unearthed at Kōjindani near Izumo.

  10. 2007

    Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine and its Cultural Landscape is inscribed on the World Heritage List.

Culture

In Izumo the tenth lunar month is called Kamiarizuki, "the month when the gods are present", because the gods of Japan are said to gather at Izumo Taisha, while elsewhere it is Kannazuki, "the month without gods". Shrine ritual and kagura dance remain central to local life, from the ceremonies of Izumo Taisha and Miho Shrine to the vigorous Iwami Kagura of the west.

Matsue owes a refined tea and confectionery culture to its seventh Matsudaira lord, Harusato (Fumai), and is counted with Kyoto and Kanazawa among Japan's great wagashi towns. Crafts include Sekishū washi, recognised by UNESCO as part of Washi, Iwami-yaki stoneware and Izumo stone lanterns.

Festivals

  • Kamiari-sai at Izumo Taisha

    神在祭Kamiari-sai

    A series of rites in the tenth month of the lunar calendar (usually November) welcoming the gods of Japan to Izumo.

  • Hōran'enya

    ホーランエンヤHōran'enya

    One of Japan's great boat festivals, held in Matsue about once a decade, when decorated boats carry the deity of Jōzan Inari Shrine on the Ōhashi River and Lake Shinji.

  • Tsuwano Sagi-mai

    鷺舞Sagi-mai

    The heron dance of Yasaka Shrine in Tsuwano, performed on 20 and 27 July, a form that came from Kyoto's Gion festival.

  • Iwami Kagura

    石見神楽Iwami kagura

    Fast-paced shrine dance-drama with elaborate costumes and serpent costumes, performed at autumn festivals and on stages in Hamada and Masuda.

Traditional crafts

  • Sekishū washi

    石州和紙Sekishū washi

    Strong paper from Iwami; its Sekishū-banshi is part of Washi, craftsmanship of traditional Japanese hand-made paper, on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list.

  • Iwami-yaki

    石見焼Iwami-yaki

    Salt- and water-resistant stoneware, famous for large water jars; a designated traditional craft.

  • Izumo stone lanterns

    出雲石灯ろうIzumo ishidōrō

    Garden lanterns carved from the soft Kimachi sandstone; a designated traditional craft.

  • Unshū soroban

    雲州そろばんUnshū soroban

    Abacuses made in Okuizumo, a designated traditional craft.

  • Yakumo-nuri

    八雲塗Yakumo-nuri

    Matsue lacquerware with coloured designs that grow more vivid with use.

Traditions

  • Izumo myths

    出雲神話Izumo shinwa

    The cycle of myths about Susanoo, Yamata no Orochi and Ōkuninushi's ceding of the land, told in the Kojiki and localised across the prefecture.

  • Tatara iron-making

    たたら製鉄Tatara seitetsu

    Traditional smelting of iron sand in clay furnaces in Okuizumo, still practised to supply steel for Japanese swords.

  • Oki bull-sumo

    牛突きUshizuki

    Bullfights on Dōgo in which bulls push against each other, a custom said to date back to Go-Toba's exile.

  • Izumo dialect

    出雲弁Izumo-ben

    A dialect with vowel features that link it to the Tōhoku dialects, often cited as a puzzle of Japanese dialectology.

Cuisine

Shimane's table combines lake, sea and mountain: shijimi clams and seven delicacies of Lake Shinji, blackthroat seaperch and flying fish from the Iwami coast, and buckwheat from the Okuizumo highlands. Matsue's tea culture sustains a large number of confectioners.

  • Izumo soba

    出雲そばIzumo soba

    Dark, whole-grain buckwheat noodles served cold in stacked round lacquer dishes (warigo) or hot in their cooking water (kamaage).

  • Shijimi clams

    しじみShijimi

    Small brackish-water clams from Lake Shinji, eaten above all in miso soup.

  • Nodoguro

    のどぐろNodoguro

    Rich blackthroat seaperch landed at Hamada, grilled or served as sushi.

  • Ago-yaki

    あご野焼Ago noyaki

    A large grilled fish-paste roll made from flying fish, called ago in the San'in dialect.

  • Matsue wagashi

    松江の和菓子Matsue no wagashi

    Tea sweets such as wakakusa and yamakawa, recreated from the favourites of Matsudaira Fumai.

  • Oki sazae and iwagaki

    隠岐のさざえ・岩がきOki no sazae, iwagaki

    Turban shells and farmed rock oysters from the Oki Islands.

Hot springs

  • Tamatsukuri Onsen

    玉造温泉Tamatsukuri Onsen

    An ancient spa south of Lake Shinji, praised in the Izumo Fudoki and known for skin-softening water and its magatama-making tradition.

  • Matsue Shinjiko Onsen

    松江しんじ湖温泉Matsue Shinjiko Onsen

    Hotels on the lakeshore of Matsue, with a free foot bath by the water.

  • Yunotsu Onsen

    温泉津温泉Yunotsu Onsen

    A narrow spa-and-port town that shipped Iwami silver; part of the World Heritage property.

  • Arifuku Onsen

    有福温泉Arifuku Onsen

    A small hillside spa near Gōtsu with stone-stepped lanes and public bathhouses.

Economy

Shimane's economy is small and dominated by services and public employment. Manufacturing includes electronic components around Izumo, high-grade specialty steel in Yasugi descended from tatara iron-making, and food processing. Agriculture, forestry and fisheries remain significant, and tourism relies on Izumo Taisha, Matsue and the Adachi Museum of Art. The Shimane Nuclear Power Station lies within the city of Matsue.

Key industries

  • Electronic components
  • Specialty steel (Yasugi)
  • Fisheries (Hamada, Oki) and shijimi clams
  • Rice, grapes and livestock
  • Forestry and paper
  • Tourism and pilgrimage

Notable people

  • Izumo no Okuni (fl. c. 1600)

    出雲阿国

    Performer, said to have been a shrine maiden of Izumo Taisha, credited with originating kabuki in Kyoto.

  • Matsudaira Harusato (Fumai) (1751–1818)

    松平治郷（不昧）

    Seventh Matsudaira lord of Matsue, reformer of the domain's finances and one of the great tea masters of the Edo period.

  • Lafcadio Hearn (Koizumi Yakumo) (1850–1904)

    小泉八雲

    Writer who taught in Matsue in 1890–1891, married Koizumi Setsu and introduced Japanese folklore to the West.

  • Mori Ōgai (1862–1922)

    森鷗外

    Novelist, translator and army surgeon, born in Tsuwano.

  • Wakatsuki Reijirō (1866–1949)

    若槻禮次郎

    Prime Minister in 1926–1927 and 1931, born in Matsue.

  • Takeshita Noboru (1924–2000)

    竹下登

    Prime Minister in 1987–1989, from Kakeya in present-day Unnan.

Getting there

  • Izumo Enmusubi Airport, between Matsue and Izumo, has flights from Tokyo Haneda, Osaka and other cities; Hagi-Iwami Airport in Masuda serves the west, and Oki Airport the islands.
  • Limited express trains run from Okayama on the Hakubi Line to Matsue and Izumo in about two and a half to three hours, connecting with the San'yō Shinkansen.
  • The overnight sleeper Sunrise Izumo runs from Tokyo to Izumo-shi via Matsue.
  • Limited express trains on the Yamaguchi Line link Shin-Yamaguchi on the Shinkansen with Tsuwano and Masuda.
  • Ferries and high-speed boats cross to the Oki Islands from Shichirui on the Shimane peninsula and from Sakaiminato in Tottori.

Neighbouring prefectures

Former provinces

  • 出雲国Izumo no kuni
  • 石見国Iwami no kuni
  • 隠岐国Oki no kuni

Prefectural symbols

Flower
ボタンBotan
Tree
クロマツKuromatsu
Bird
ハクチョウHakuchō

Frequently asked questions

Why is Shimane called the land of the gods?

Many of Japan's founding myths are set in Izumo, and tradition holds that the gods of the whole country gather at Izumo Taisha every tenth lunar month, which in Izumo is therefore called Kamiarizuki, the month when the gods are present.

How do you get to Izumo Taisha?

From Izumo-shi Station, buses reach the shrine in about 25 minutes; the Ichibata Railway also runs from Matsue and Izumo to Izumo-Taisha-mae Station.

Can Iwami Ginzan be visited as a day trip?

Yes. Buses run from Ōda-shi Station to the Ōmori district, and the Ryūgenji mine gallery and the old town can be seen in a day; allow time, as the valley is walked on foot or by bicycle.

How do you reach the Oki Islands?

By ferry or high-speed boat from Shichirui or Sakaiminato, or by air from Izumo and Osaka to Oki Airport on Dōgo.

Is Matsue Castle original?

Yes. Its keep, completed in 1611, is one of the twelve surviving original castle keeps in Japan and was designated a National Treasure in 2015.

Related

Sources

  1. 1.島根県公式ホームページ (opens in a new tab) — 島根県
  2. 2.令和2年国勢調査 (opens in a new tab) — Statistics Bureau of Japan
  3. 3.全国都道府県市区町村別面積調 (opens in a new tab) — 国土地理院
  4. 4.Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine and its Cultural Landscape (opens in a new tab) — UNESCO World Heritage Centre
  5. 5.大山隠岐国立公園 (opens in a new tab) — 環境省
  6. 6.Shimane (opens in a new tab) — JNTO

Editorial team · Published: