Kansai · Prefecture · JP-30
Wakayama
和歌山県わかやまけんWakayama-kenSacred mountains and the warm Kii coast
Wakayama occupies the western and southern Kii Peninsula, a mountainous prefecture of sacred sites – Kōya-san and the three Kumano shrines linked by the Kumano Kodō – and of a warm Pacific coast known for hot springs, citrus and ume plums.
Overview
More than three-quarters of Wakayama is mountain forest. Its people live mainly along the Kino River valley in the north, where the capital lies at the river mouth, and in towns strung along the coast from Arida and Gobō to Tanabe, Shirahama, Kushimoto and Shingū. The old name Kii is often explained as "land of trees" (ki no kuni), and forestry and charcoal – notably the hard white binchōtan – remain part of its identity.
Wakayama is one of Japan's great religious landscapes. Kōya-san, the mountain monastery founded by Kūkai in 816, is the headquarters of Shingon Buddhism; the Kumano Sanzan – Hongū, Hayatama and Nachi Taisha – were the goal of pilgrimages by retired emperors and commoners alike along the Kumano Kodō. These sites, with Yoshino and Ōmine in Nara and the Iseji route in Mie, form the Kii Mountains World Heritage site; alongside the Way of St James, the Kumano Kodō is one of the few pilgrimage routes on the World Heritage List.
The coast is warm, with hot springs at Shirahama, Katsuura and Kawayu, and orchards of mandarins, ume plums, persimmons and peaches on the slopes. Wakayama is among Japan's leading producers of mandarins, ume and persimmons.
Name and origins
The prefecture is named after its capital, Wakayama, a name that came into use when Toyotomi Hideyoshi had a castle built on the hill of Torafusu-yama in 1585. It is often explained as combining the poetic bay of Waka-no-ura with yama (mountain), though its exact origin is uncertain. The Kishū domain, one of the three senior Tokugawa branch houses, ruled Kii province from here. Wakayama Prefecture was established in 1871; the eastern part of Kii province (Kitamuro and Minamimuro) went to Mie in 1876.
Cities
Geography
The Kino River flows westward across the north, separating the Izumi range on the Osaka border from the Kii Mountains. South of it the land rises into steep, forested ranges cut by rivers such as the Arida, Hidaka, Tonda, Hiki and Kumano, the latter forming part of the border with Mie. The long Kumano River system drains the Ōmine and Hatenashi ranges down to Shingū.
The coastline runs for more than 600 kilometres, from the bays of Kada and Waka-no-ura in the north to Cape Shionomisaki at Kushimoto, the southernmost point of Honshu, and on to the rias of Katsuura and Taiji. The warm Kuroshio current flows close to the southern coast, bringing coral communities to Kushimoto, which is a Ramsar-listed site.
Climate
Wakayama has a warm, humid Pacific climate. The north is relatively dry, while the south receives very heavy rainfall, especially in the mountains around Nachi and the Kumano River; typhoons frequently strike the peninsula in late summer. Winters on the southern coast are mild, while Kōya-san at about 800 metres is much colder and sees snow.
Landscape
- 紀伊山地Kii-sanchi
Steep, forested mountains holding the pilgrimage sites of Kōya-san and Kumano.
- 那智の滝Nachi no Taki
Japan's highest single-drop waterfall at 133 metres, worshipped as a deity at Nachi Taisha.
- 潮岬Shionomisaki
The southernmost point of Honshu, in Kushimoto, with a lighthouse and wide Pacific views.
- 瀞峡Doro-kyō
Gorge on the Kitayama River where Wakayama, Nara and Mie meet, toured by jet boat.
Kino River
紀の川Kino-kawaRiver of northern Wakayama (the Yoshino River upstream in Nara), lined with orchards.
Waka-no-ura
和歌の浦Waka-no-uraTidal bay south of Wakayama city celebrated in Man'yōshū poetry.
Nature in this prefecture
World Heritage in this prefecture
History
Kii was the land of the Kumano faith from ancient times, and from the late 11th to the 13th century retired emperors made dozens of pilgrimages to Kumano. Kūkai founded Kōya-san in 816, and it grew into a vast monastic city. The Negoro-ji and Saika warrior bands of northern Kii resisted Oda Nobunaga and were crushed by Toyotomi Hideyoshi in 1585, who then built Wakayama Castle. Under the Tokugawa, the Kishū domain produced two shoguns, including the reformer Tokugawa Yoshimune. In the modern era Wakayama became known for emigration – many fishermen left for Australia and North America – and for its citrus and fishing industries.
816
Kūkai receives imperial permission to found a monastery on Kōya-san.
1090
Retired Emperor Shirakawa makes his first pilgrimage to Kumano.
1585
Hideyoshi conquers Kii and begins Wakayama Castle.
1619
Tokugawa Yorinobu becomes the first lord of the Kishū Tokugawa house.
1716
Tokugawa Yoshimune of Kishū becomes the eighth shogun.
1871
Wakayama Prefecture is established.
1890
The Ottoman frigate Ertuğrul sinks off Kushimoto; local people rescue 69 survivors.
2004
The Kii Mountains pilgrimage sites are inscribed as a World Heritage site.
2011
Typhoon Talas causes severe flooding in the Kumano region.
Culture
Religious traditions shape Wakayama: temple lodgings at Kōya-san, the ascetic practices of the Kumano mountains, and fire festivals at Nachi and Shingū. The Kumano Kodō pilgrimage is walked by visitors from around the world. The prefecture's coast also preserves whaling traditions at Taiji, a subject of international controversy, and Kushimoto's links with Turkey through the Ertuğrul rescue.
Festivals
Nachi Fire Festival
那智の扇祭りNachi no Ōgi Matsuri14 July: twelve large torches purify the path for twelve portable shrines before Nachi Falls.
Oto Matsuri
御燈祭りOtō Matsuri6 February: some two thousand men in white run down the 538 stone steps of Kamikura Shrine in Shingū with burning torches.
Kishū Tōshōgū Waka Festival
和歌祭Waka MatsuriMay festival in Wakayama city with a costumed procession, established by the Kishū Tokugawa house.
Kōya-san Candle Festival
萬燈供養会(ろうそく祭り)Mantō Kuyō-e (Rōsoku Matsuri)13 August: tens of thousands of candles line the approach to Okunoin for Obon.
Traditional crafts
Kishū shikki
紀州漆器Kishū shikkiKuroe lacquerware from Kainan, one of Japan's major lacquer centres.
Kishū binchōtan
紀州備長炭Kishū binchōtanVery hard white charcoal made from ubamegashi oak, prized for grilling.
Kishū bamboo fishing rods
紀州へら竿Kishū herazaoHand-made bamboo rods from Hashimoto for carp fishing.
Kishū tansu
紀州箪笥Kishū tansuPaulownia-wood chests of drawers from Wakayama city.
Kōya paper
高野紙Kōya-gamiHandmade paper once used for Buddhist sutras on Kōya-san.
Traditions
Kumano pilgrimage
熊野詣Kumano-mōdeThe pilgrimage to the three Kumano shrines, so crowded in the Middle Ages that it was called the "ants' pilgrimage".
Shukubō
宿坊shukubōTemple lodgings on Kōya-san offering vegetarian meals and morning prayers.
Kishū dialect
紀州弁Kishū-benA Kansai dialect known for merging z and d sounds and lacking many honorific forms.
Cuisine
Wakayama's food combines mountain, orchard and sea. Umeboshi from Minabe and Tanabe, mandarins from Arida, persimmons from the Kino valley and Kishū soy sauce from Yuasa – birthplace of Japanese soy sauce – are staples. The coast adds tuna from Katsuura, one of Japan's largest landing ports for fresh tuna, and whale and bonito traditions.
Umeboshi
梅干しumeboshiSalt-pickled Nankō plums from Minabe and Tanabe, Japan's best-known ume.
Wakayama ramen
和歌山ラーメンWakayama rāmenPork-bone and soy broth ramen, often eaten with hayazushi pressed mackerel sushi on the side.
Mehari-zushi
めはり寿司mehari-zushiRice balls wrapped in pickled takana leaves, a lunch of Kumano's woodcutters.
Katsuura tuna
勝浦まぐろKatsuura maguroFresh, never-frozen tuna landed at Nachi-Katsuura.
Arida mandarins
有田みかんArida mikanMandarins from terraced orchards in the Arida valley.
Yuasa soy sauce
湯浅醤油Yuasa shōyuSoy sauce from Yuasa, where the condiment is said to have originated from Kinzanji miso.
Hot springs
- 白浜温泉Shirahama Onsen
One of Japan's three ancient hot springs, beside the white-sand Shirarahama beach.
Kawayu Onsen
川湯温泉Kawayu OnsenHot water rises through the riverbed; in winter a huge open-air bath (Sennin-buro) is dug in the river.
Yunomine Onsen
湯の峰温泉Yunomine OnsenAncient pilgrims' spa near Kumano Hongū, with Tsuboyu, the only World Heritage-listed public bath.
Nachi-Katsuura Onsen
南紀勝浦温泉Nanki-Katsuura OnsenHot springs around Katsuura Bay, including cave baths facing the sea.
Ryūjin Onsen
龍神温泉Ryūjin OnsenMountain spa on the Hidaka River, counted among Japan's "three beauty-skin baths".
Economy
Wakayama's economy rests on agriculture, fisheries and tourism, with heavy industry along the northern coast – steel at Wakayama city and petrochemicals at Arida and Kainan. It is among Japan's leading producers of mandarins, ume and persimmons, and a major producer of peaches and sanshō pepper. Tourism centres on Kōya-san, the Kumano Kodō, Shirahama and Nachi-Katsuura.
Key industries
- Fruit growing (mandarins, ume, persimmons, peaches)
- Steel and petrochemicals
- Fisheries (tuna, bonito)
- Forestry and binchōtan charcoal
- Pilgrimage and resort tourism
- Food processing (umeboshi, soy sauce)
Notable people
Kūkai (774–835)
空海Founder of Shingon Buddhism and of Kōya-san, where he is believed to remain in eternal meditation.
Tokugawa Yoshimune (1684–1751)
徳川吉宗Lord of Kishū who became the eighth shogun and led the Kyōhō reforms.
Minakata Kumagusu (1867–1941)
南方熊楠Naturalist and folklorist who studied slime moulds and campaigned against the destruction of shrine forests.
Matsushita Kōnosuke (1894–1989)
松下幸之助Founder of Panasonic, born in Wakayama.
Ariyoshi Sawako (1931–1984)
有吉佐和子Novelist born in Wakayama, author of "The River Ki" and "The Doctor's Wife".
Getting there
- Kansai International Airport lies just north of the prefectural border; Wakayama city is about 40 minutes away by train or bus.
- Nanki-Shirahama Airport has flights to Tokyo-Haneda.
- The JR Kisei Main Line (Kinokuni Line) runs from Osaka along the coast to Wakayama, Kii-Tanabe, Shirahama, Kushimoto and Shingū, served by the limited express Kuroshio.
- Nankai trains connect Namba with Wakayama city and, on the Kōya Line with a cable car, with Kōya-san.
- Expressways: the Hanwa Expressway and Kisei Expressway run from Osaka down the west coast.
Former provinces
- 紀伊国Kii no kuni
Prefectural symbols
- Flower
- 梅ume
- Tree
- 姥目樫ubamegashi
- Bird
- 目白mejiro
Frequently asked questions
How do I get to Kōya-san?
From Osaka-Namba take the Nankai Kōya Line to Gokurakubashi, then the cable car and a bus to the town – about two hours in total.
What is the Kumano Kodō?
A network of ancient pilgrimage routes to the three Grand Shrines of Kumano. The most popular section is the Nakahechi from Takijiri near Tanabe to Kumano Hongū Taisha, usually walked over two or three days.
Can I stay in a temple on Kōya-san?
Yes. Around fifty temples offer shukubō lodgings with shōjin-ryōri vegetarian meals and the chance to join morning services.
Why is Kushimoto connected to Turkey?
In 1890 the Ottoman frigate Ertuğrul sank off Kashinozaki; islanders of Ōshima rescued and cared for the survivors. The episode is commemorated by a memorial and museum and remains a symbol of Japanese–Turkish friendship.
Is Wakayama good for a beach holiday?
Yes. Shirahama's Shirarahama beach is one of the best known in western Japan, and the southern coast offers snorkelling and diving at Kushimoto's coral reefs.
Related
Sources
- 1.令和2年国勢調査 (opens in a new tab) — Statistics Bureau of Japan
- 2.全国都道府県市区町村別面積調 (opens in a new tab) — Geospatial Information Authority of Japan
- 3.和歌山県ホームページ (opens in a new tab) — 和歌山県
- 4.Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range (opens in a new tab) — UNESCO World Heritage Centre
- 5.高野山真言宗 総本山金剛峯寺 (opens in a new tab) — 金剛峯寺