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Kansai · Prefecture · JP-30

Wakayama

和歌山県わかやまけんWakayama-ken

Sacred mountains and the warm Kii coast

Wakayama occupies the western and southern Kii Peninsula, a mountainous prefecture of sacred sites – Kōya-san and the three Kumano shrines linked by the Kumano Kodō – and of a warm Pacific coast known for hot springs, citrus and ume plums.

Overview

More than three-quarters of Wakayama is mountain forest. Its people live mainly along the Kino River valley in the north, where the capital lies at the river mouth, and in towns strung along the coast from Arida and Gobō to Tanabe, Shirahama, Kushimoto and Shingū. The old name Kii is often explained as "land of trees" (ki no kuni), and forestry and charcoal – notably the hard white binchōtan – remain part of its identity.

Wakayama is one of Japan's great religious landscapes. Kōya-san, the mountain monastery founded by Kūkai in 816, is the headquarters of Shingon Buddhism; the Kumano Sanzan – Hongū, Hayatama and Nachi Taisha – were the goal of pilgrimages by retired emperors and commoners alike along the Kumano Kodō. These sites, with Yoshino and Ōmine in Nara and the Iseji route in Mie, form the Kii Mountains World Heritage site; alongside the Way of St James, the Kumano Kodō is one of the few pilgrimage routes on the World Heritage List.

The coast is warm, with hot springs at Shirahama, Katsuura and Kawayu, and orchards of mandarins, ume plums, persimmons and peaches on the slopes. Wakayama is among Japan's leading producers of mandarins, ume and persimmons.

Name and origins

The prefecture is named after its capital, Wakayama, a name that came into use when Toyotomi Hideyoshi had a castle built on the hill of Torafusu-yama in 1585. It is often explained as combining the poetic bay of Waka-no-ura with yama (mountain), though its exact origin is uncertain. The Kishū domain, one of the three senior Tokugawa branch houses, ruled Kii province from here. Wakayama Prefecture was established in 1871; the eastern part of Kii province (Kitamuro and Minamimuro) went to Mie in 1876.

Cities

Geography

The Kino River flows westward across the north, separating the Izumi range on the Osaka border from the Kii Mountains. South of it the land rises into steep, forested ranges cut by rivers such as the Arida, Hidaka, Tonda, Hiki and Kumano, the latter forming part of the border with Mie. The long Kumano River system drains the Ōmine and Hatenashi ranges down to Shingū.

The coastline runs for more than 600 kilometres, from the bays of Kada and Waka-no-ura in the north to Cape Shionomisaki at Kushimoto, the southernmost point of Honshu, and on to the rias of Katsuura and Taiji. The warm Kuroshio current flows close to the southern coast, bringing coral communities to Kushimoto, which is a Ramsar-listed site.

Climate

Wakayama has a warm, humid Pacific climate. The north is relatively dry, while the south receives very heavy rainfall, especially in the mountains around Nachi and the Kumano River; typhoons frequently strike the peninsula in late summer. Winters on the southern coast are mild, while Kōya-san at about 800 metres is much colder and sees snow.

Landscape

  • Kii Mountains

    紀伊山地Kii-sanchi

    Steep, forested mountains holding the pilgrimage sites of Kōya-san and Kumano.

  • Nachi Falls

    那智の滝Nachi no Taki

    Japan's highest single-drop waterfall at 133 metres, worshipped as a deity at Nachi Taisha.

  • Cape Shionomisaki

    潮岬Shionomisaki

    The southernmost point of Honshu, in Kushimoto, with a lighthouse and wide Pacific views.

  • Doro-kyō

    瀞峡Doro-kyō

    Gorge on the Kitayama River where Wakayama, Nara and Mie meet, toured by jet boat.

  • Kino River

    紀の川Kino-kawa

    River of northern Wakayama (the Yoshino River upstream in Nara), lined with orchards.

  • Waka-no-ura

    和歌の浦Waka-no-ura

    Tidal bay south of Wakayama city celebrated in Man'yōshū poetry.

Nature in this prefecture

World Heritage in this prefecture

History

Kii was the land of the Kumano faith from ancient times, and from the late 11th to the 13th century retired emperors made dozens of pilgrimages to Kumano. Kūkai founded Kōya-san in 816, and it grew into a vast monastic city. The Negoro-ji and Saika warrior bands of northern Kii resisted Oda Nobunaga and were crushed by Toyotomi Hideyoshi in 1585, who then built Wakayama Castle. Under the Tokugawa, the Kishū domain produced two shoguns, including the reformer Tokugawa Yoshimune. In the modern era Wakayama became known for emigration – many fishermen left for Australia and North America – and for its citrus and fishing industries.

  1. 816

    Kūkai receives imperial permission to found a monastery on Kōya-san.

  2. 1090

    Retired Emperor Shirakawa makes his first pilgrimage to Kumano.

  3. 1585

    Hideyoshi conquers Kii and begins Wakayama Castle.

  4. 1619

    Tokugawa Yorinobu becomes the first lord of the Kishū Tokugawa house.

  5. 1716

    Tokugawa Yoshimune of Kishū becomes the eighth shogun.

  6. 1871

    Wakayama Prefecture is established.

  7. 1890

    The Ottoman frigate Ertuğrul sinks off Kushimoto; local people rescue 69 survivors.

  8. 2004

    The Kii Mountains pilgrimage sites are inscribed as a World Heritage site.

  9. 2011

    Typhoon Talas causes severe flooding in the Kumano region.

Culture

Religious traditions shape Wakayama: temple lodgings at Kōya-san, the ascetic practices of the Kumano mountains, and fire festivals at Nachi and Shingū. The Kumano Kodō pilgrimage is walked by visitors from around the world. The prefecture's coast also preserves whaling traditions at Taiji, a subject of international controversy, and Kushimoto's links with Turkey through the Ertuğrul rescue.

Festivals

  • Nachi Fire Festival

    那智の扇祭りNachi no Ōgi Matsuri

    14 July: twelve large torches purify the path for twelve portable shrines before Nachi Falls.

  • Oto Matsuri

    御燈祭りOtō Matsuri

    6 February: some two thousand men in white run down the 538 stone steps of Kamikura Shrine in Shingū with burning torches.

  • Kishū Tōshōgū Waka Festival

    和歌祭Waka Matsuri

    May festival in Wakayama city with a costumed procession, established by the Kishū Tokugawa house.

  • Kōya-san Candle Festival

    萬燈供養会(ろうそく祭り)Mantō Kuyō-e (Rōsoku Matsuri)

    13 August: tens of thousands of candles line the approach to Okunoin for Obon.

Traditional crafts

  • Kishū shikki

    紀州漆器Kishū shikki

    Kuroe lacquerware from Kainan, one of Japan's major lacquer centres.

  • Kishū binchōtan

    紀州備長炭Kishū binchōtan

    Very hard white charcoal made from ubamegashi oak, prized for grilling.

  • Kishū bamboo fishing rods

    紀州へら竿Kishū herazao

    Hand-made bamboo rods from Hashimoto for carp fishing.

  • Kishū tansu

    紀州箪笥Kishū tansu

    Paulownia-wood chests of drawers from Wakayama city.

  • Kōya paper

    高野紙Kōya-gami

    Handmade paper once used for Buddhist sutras on Kōya-san.

Traditions

  • Kumano pilgrimage

    熊野詣Kumano-mōde

    The pilgrimage to the three Kumano shrines, so crowded in the Middle Ages that it was called the "ants' pilgrimage".

  • Shukubō

    宿坊shukubō

    Temple lodgings on Kōya-san offering vegetarian meals and morning prayers.

  • Kishū dialect

    紀州弁Kishū-ben

    A Kansai dialect known for merging z and d sounds and lacking many honorific forms.

Cuisine

Wakayama's food combines mountain, orchard and sea. Umeboshi from Minabe and Tanabe, mandarins from Arida, persimmons from the Kino valley and Kishū soy sauce from Yuasa – birthplace of Japanese soy sauce – are staples. The coast adds tuna from Katsuura, one of Japan's largest landing ports for fresh tuna, and whale and bonito traditions.

  • Umeboshi

    梅干しumeboshi

    Salt-pickled Nankō plums from Minabe and Tanabe, Japan's best-known ume.

  • Wakayama ramen

    和歌山ラーメンWakayama rāmen

    Pork-bone and soy broth ramen, often eaten with hayazushi pressed mackerel sushi on the side.

  • Mehari-zushi

    めはり寿司mehari-zushi

    Rice balls wrapped in pickled takana leaves, a lunch of Kumano's woodcutters.

  • Katsuura tuna

    勝浦まぐろKatsuura maguro

    Fresh, never-frozen tuna landed at Nachi-Katsuura.

  • Arida mandarins

    有田みかんArida mikan

    Mandarins from terraced orchards in the Arida valley.

  • Yuasa soy sauce

    湯浅醤油Yuasa shōyu

    Soy sauce from Yuasa, where the condiment is said to have originated from Kinzanji miso.

Hot springs

  • Shirahama Onsen

    白浜温泉Shirahama Onsen

    One of Japan's three ancient hot springs, beside the white-sand Shirarahama beach.

  • Kawayu Onsen

    川湯温泉Kawayu Onsen

    Hot water rises through the riverbed; in winter a huge open-air bath (Sennin-buro) is dug in the river.

  • Yunomine Onsen

    湯の峰温泉Yunomine Onsen

    Ancient pilgrims' spa near Kumano Hongū, with Tsuboyu, the only World Heritage-listed public bath.

  • Nachi-Katsuura Onsen

    南紀勝浦温泉Nanki-Katsuura Onsen

    Hot springs around Katsuura Bay, including cave baths facing the sea.

  • Ryūjin Onsen

    龍神温泉Ryūjin Onsen

    Mountain spa on the Hidaka River, counted among Japan's "three beauty-skin baths".

Economy

Wakayama's economy rests on agriculture, fisheries and tourism, with heavy industry along the northern coast – steel at Wakayama city and petrochemicals at Arida and Kainan. It is among Japan's leading producers of mandarins, ume and persimmons, and a major producer of peaches and sanshō pepper. Tourism centres on Kōya-san, the Kumano Kodō, Shirahama and Nachi-Katsuura.

Key industries

  • Fruit growing (mandarins, ume, persimmons, peaches)
  • Steel and petrochemicals
  • Fisheries (tuna, bonito)
  • Forestry and binchōtan charcoal
  • Pilgrimage and resort tourism
  • Food processing (umeboshi, soy sauce)

Notable people

  • Kūkai (774–835)

    空海

    Founder of Shingon Buddhism and of Kōya-san, where he is believed to remain in eternal meditation.

  • Tokugawa Yoshimune (1684–1751)

    徳川吉宗

    Lord of Kishū who became the eighth shogun and led the Kyōhō reforms.

  • Minakata Kumagusu (1867–1941)

    南方熊楠

    Naturalist and folklorist who studied slime moulds and campaigned against the destruction of shrine forests.

  • Matsushita Kōnosuke (1894–1989)

    松下幸之助

    Founder of Panasonic, born in Wakayama.

  • Ariyoshi Sawako (1931–1984)

    有吉佐和子

    Novelist born in Wakayama, author of "The River Ki" and "The Doctor's Wife".

Getting there

  • Kansai International Airport lies just north of the prefectural border; Wakayama city is about 40 minutes away by train or bus.
  • Nanki-Shirahama Airport has flights to Tokyo-Haneda.
  • The JR Kisei Main Line (Kinokuni Line) runs from Osaka along the coast to Wakayama, Kii-Tanabe, Shirahama, Kushimoto and Shingū, served by the limited express Kuroshio.
  • Nankai trains connect Namba with Wakayama city and, on the Kōya Line with a cable car, with Kōya-san.
  • Expressways: the Hanwa Expressway and Kisei Expressway run from Osaka down the west coast.

Neighbouring prefectures

Former provinces

  • 紀伊国Kii no kuni

Prefectural symbols

Flower
梅ume
Tree
姥目樫ubamegashi
Bird
目白mejiro

Frequently asked questions

How do I get to Kōya-san?

From Osaka-Namba take the Nankai Kōya Line to Gokurakubashi, then the cable car and a bus to the town – about two hours in total.

What is the Kumano Kodō?

A network of ancient pilgrimage routes to the three Grand Shrines of Kumano. The most popular section is the Nakahechi from Takijiri near Tanabe to Kumano Hongū Taisha, usually walked over two or three days.

Can I stay in a temple on Kōya-san?

Yes. Around fifty temples offer shukubō lodgings with shōjin-ryōri vegetarian meals and the chance to join morning services.

Why is Kushimoto connected to Turkey?

In 1890 the Ottoman frigate Ertuğrul sank off Kashinozaki; islanders of Ōshima rescued and cared for the survivors. The episode is commemorated by a memorial and museum and remains a symbol of Japanese–Turkish friendship.

Is Wakayama good for a beach holiday?

Yes. Shirahama's Shirarahama beach is one of the best known in western Japan, and the southern coast offers snorkelling and diving at Kushimoto's coral reefs.

Sources

  1. 1.令和2年国勢調査 (opens in a new tab) — Statistics Bureau of Japan
  2. 2.全国都道府県市区町村別面積調 (opens in a new tab) — Geospatial Information Authority of Japan
  3. 3.和歌山県ホームページ (opens in a new tab) — 和歌山県
  4. 4.Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range (opens in a new tab) — UNESCO World Heritage Centre
  5. 5.高野山真言宗 総本山金剛峯寺 (opens in a new tab) — 金剛峯寺

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