Hikone Castle
彦根城ひこねじょうHikone-jōThe Ii clan's castle keep above Lake Biwa
Hikone Castle, on a hill beside Lake Biwa in Shiga Prefecture, was built from 1603 by the Ii clan, the leading hereditary vassals of the Tokugawa. Its main keep, completed around 1606, is one of only twelve original castle keeps in Japan and one of five designated National Treasures.
Overview
Hikone Castle crowns Konkizan, a low hill on the eastern shore of Lake Biwa in the city of Hikone. It was the seat of the Ii family, who held the Hikone domain throughout the Edo period and supplied several of the shogunate's chief ministers (tairō). The castle guarded the routes between eastern Japan and Kyoto at a strategic narrowing of the Nakasendō corridor.
The three-storey main keep is small but richly articulated, with a varied composition of gables, curved karahafu and bell-shaped windows. It is one of twelve keeps that survive from the Edo period or earlier and is one of five castles whose keeps are National Treasures. Materials from older castles in the region were reused in its construction; the keep itself is traditionally said to derive from Ōtsu Castle.
Much of the castle's defensive layout survives: the dry moats and ridges that divide the hill, the Tenbin-yagura turret spanning a trench on a bridge, and the stone walls that climb the slopes. At the foot of the hill lie the reconstructed palace, now the Hikone Castle Museum, and the Genkyū-en garden of the Ii lords.
Highlights
Main keep
天守TenshuThree-storey original keep with a complex arrangement of gables and windows; a National Treasure.
Tenbin-yagura
天秤櫓Tenbin-yaguraBalance-shaped corridor turret spanning a moat on a bridge that could be destroyed in an attack; an Important Cultural Property.
Climbing stone walls
登り石垣Nobori-ishigakiStone walls running up the hillside to block movement along the slopes, a rare feature in Japanese castles.
Genkyū-en garden
玄宮園Genkyū-enPond-circuit garden of the Ii lords at the foot of the castle, with a classic view of the keep across the water.
Hikone Castle Museum
彦根城博物館Hikone-jō HakubutsukanReconstruction of the domain's administrative palace, displaying the armour, Noh costumes and tea utensils of the Ii family.
Stables
馬屋UmayaL-shaped castle stables, the only surviving example of their kind in Japan; an Important Cultural Property.
History
After the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600, Ii Naomasa, one of Tokugawa Ieyasu's foremost generals, was given the domain around the former Sawayama Castle of Ishida Mitsunari. His son Naokatsu began building a new castle at Hikone in 1603 with the support of the shogunate and neighbouring lords, and the complex was finished around 1622. The Ii remained here until the abolition of the domains; Ii Naosuke, lord of Hikone and chief minister, signed the treaties opening Japan in 1858 and was assassinated in 1860. The castle escaped demolition in the Meiji period.
1600
After Sekigahara, Ii Naomasa receives the domain around Sawayama.
1603
Construction of Hikone Castle begins under Ii Naokatsu.
c. 1606
The main keep is completed.
c. 1622
The castle complex and town are finished.
1858
Ii Naosuke, lord of Hikone, signs the Treaty of Amity and Commerce with the United States as chief minister.
1878
The castle is spared from demolition, traditionally attributed to intervention during an imperial tour.
1952
The main keep is designated a National Treasure.
1956
The castle is designated a Special Historic Site.
Culture
The red-lacquered armour of the Ii clan, the "red devils", is one of the best-known images of samurai warfare, and the Hikone Castle Museum holds a large collection of Ii heirlooms. Ii Naosuke, the most famous lord of Hikone, was also an accomplished tea master and writer on the tea ceremony.
Hikone Castle is on Japan's tentative list for World Heritage nomination. Its white cat mascot Hikonyan, wearing the Ii family's horned red helmet, has become one of the best-known local mascots in Japan.
Visiting
- The castle is about 15 minutes' walk from Hikone Station on the JR Biwako Line, around 50 minutes from Kyoto.
- The climb to the keep involves steep stone steps; inside, the stairs are ladder-like and shoes are removed.
- Cherry blossom in early April and autumn colours in the Genkyū-en garden are the most popular seasons.
- The Yume Kyōbashi Castle Road, a street of Edo-style shops, lies just south of the moat.
Nearby
Japan's largest lake, whose shore lies a short walk west of the castle.
Shiga's capital at the southern end of the lake, with Enryaku-ji and Mii-dera.
Nagahama
長浜NagahamaLakeside town to the north, once Hideyoshi's first castle town, with a historic merchant quarter.
Ryōtan-ji
龍潭寺Ryōtan-jiZen temple of the Ii family below Sawayama, known for its gardens.
Frequently asked questions
Is Hikone Castle original?
Yes. The main keep and many turrets, gates and walls date from the early 17th century. The keep is one of twelve original keeps in Japan and a National Treasure.
Which castles are National Treasures?
Five castle keeps are National Treasures: Himeji, Matsumoto, Inuyama, Hikone and Matsue.
Who lived in Hikone Castle?
The Ii family, hereditary vassals of the Tokugawa, ruled the Hikone domain from the castle throughout the Edo period.
How do you get to Hikone Castle from Kyoto?
By JR Biwako Line to Hikone Station in about 50 minutes, then a 15-minute walk. Some Shinkansen travellers change at Maibara, one stop away.
Related
Sources
- 1.国宝・彦根城 (opens in a new tab) — 彦根城運営管理センター
- 2.文化遺産オンライン (opens in a new tab) — 文化庁