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Food & Drink

Japanese Whisky

ジャパニーズウイスキーじゃぱにーずういすきーjapanīzu uisukī

A Scottish craft, rebuilt in Japanese valleys

Japanese whisky is whisky distilled in Japan on the Scottish model, first produced commercially at Yamazaki near Kyoto from the 1920s. Once made mainly for the home market, it has gained international recognition since the early 2000s.

Japanese whisky owes its beginning to two men. Taketsuru Masataka, from a sake-brewing family in Hiroshima, went to Scotland in 1918 to study chemistry in Glasgow and worked at Scottish distilleries before returning in 1920 with his Scottish wife, Rita. Torii Shinjirō, an Osaka wine merchant whose company later became Suntory, had resolved to make genuine whisky in Japan, and in 1923 he began building the Yamazaki distillery between Kyoto and Osaka, with Taketsuru as its manager. The first whisky from Yamazaki went on sale in 1929.

In 1934 Taketsuru left to found his own company, later Nikka, at Yoichi in Hokkaido, where he believed the cool, damp climate resembled Scotland's. These two companies dominated Japanese whisky for decades. After a long decline from the domestic peak of the early 1980s, international awards from 2001 onward and a revival of the highball at home in the late 2000s turned Japanese whisky into a sought-after category, and many new craft distilleries have opened since.

Style and production

Japanese whisky follows Scottish methods: malted barley fermented and double-distilled in copper pot stills for malt whisky, and grain whisky from column stills, aged in oak casks. Because the large producers historically did not trade whisky with one another, as Scottish companies do, each built distilleries with a range of still shapes, yeasts and cask types to produce many different malts in-house for blending.

Japanese oak, mizunara, is a distinctive cask wood. It is difficult to work and prone to leaking, but after long maturation it can give aromas described as sandalwood and incense. Climate also matters: the hot summers and cold winters of many sites speed up the interaction between spirit and wood.

  • Mizunara

    ミズナラmizunara

    Japanese oak (Quercus crispula), used for casks that give an oriental, incense-like character.

  • Blended whisky

    ブレンデッドウイスキーburendeddo uisukī

    Blend of malt and grain whiskies, historically the core of Japanese production.

  • Coffey still

    カフェ式連続式蒸溜機kafe-shiki renzoku-shiki jōryūki

    Traditional column still used for grain and even malt whisky at Miyagikyō.

Distilleries

Historic distilleries belong to the major drinks companies, and several are open to visitors with museums and tastings (often by reservation). Since the late 2000s, dozens of small distilleries have opened across the country, from Hokkaido to Kagoshima, some run by sake or shōchū makers.

  • Yamazaki

    山崎蒸溜所Yamazaki jōryūjo

    Japan's first malt whisky distillery, begun in 1923 in Shimamoto, Osaka Prefecture, where three rivers meet and mists are frequent.

  • Yoichi

    余市蒸溜所Yoichi jōryūjo

    Founded by Taketsuru in 1934 on the coast of Hokkaido; stills are still heated with coal fires.

  • Miyagikyo

    宮城峡蒸溜所Miyagikyō jōryūjo

    Nikka's second distillery, opened in 1969 in a valley on the western edge of Sendai.

  • Hakushu

    白州蒸溜所Hakushū jōryūjo

    Forest distillery opened in 1973 at the foot of the Southern Alps in Yamanashi.

  • Fuji Gotemba

    富士御殿場蒸溜所Fuji Gotenba jōryūjo

    Distillery at the foot of Mount Fuji, opened in 1973, known for grain whisky.

  • Chichibu

    秩父蒸溜所Chichibu jōryūjo

    Small independent distillery that began distilling in 2008 and helped inspire the craft whisky wave.

What counts as Japanese whisky

Japan's liquor tax law defines whisky broadly, and for a long time products blended from imported bulk whisky could be sold under Japanese-sounding names. In 2021 the Japan Spirits and Liqueurs Makers Association introduced a voluntary standard for its members, effective from April 2021 with a transition period to March 2024. To be labelled Japanese whisky, a product must meet several conditions.

  • Raw materials

    Malted grain must be used; other cereal grains may be added. Water must be sourced in Japan.

  • Production

    Saccharification, fermentation and distillation must take place at a distillery in Japan, with distillation to no more than 95 per cent alcohol.

  • Maturation

    At least three years in wooden casks of no more than 700 litres, in Japan.

  • Bottling

    In Japan, at no less than 40 per cent alcohol; plain caramel colouring is permitted.

How whisky is drunk

In Japan, whisky has long been drunk with food, diluted. Mizuwari, whisky with plenty of water and ice, suited Japanese dining; the highball, whisky with soda water in a tall glass with ice, became a staple of izakaya and is sold in cans. Bars take great care with ice, often cutting clear blocks by hand, and bartenders are known for precise stirring and serving.

Neat or on the rocks is usual for aged single malts. Whisky is also a popular gift, and limited releases from the major distilleries often sell out quickly.

  • Haiboru

    ハイボールhaibōru

    Highball: whisky and soda water with ice.

  • Mizuwari

    水割りmizuwari

    Whisky diluted with water and ice, the classic accompaniment to food.

  • Oyuwari

    お湯割りoyuwari

    Whisky with hot water, drunk in winter.

Timeline

  1. 1918–1920

    Taketsuru Masataka studies in Glasgow and works at Scottish distilleries.

  2. 1923

    Torii Shinjirō begins building the Yamazaki distillery, Japan's first malt whisky distillery.

  3. 1929

    The first whisky made at Yamazaki goes on sale.

  4. 1934

    Taketsuru founds his own company and the Yoichi distillery in Hokkaido.

  5. 1969–1973

    Miyagikyō, Hakushū and Fuji Gotemba distilleries open during the post-war boom.

  6. Early 1980s

    Domestic whisky consumption peaks, then declines for over two decades.

  7. 2001

    A Yoichi single cask whisky wins a top award in an international competition, drawing global attention.

  8. Late 2000s

    The highball revives domestic demand; new craft distilleries begin to open.

  9. 2021

    The Japan Spirits and Liqueurs Makers Association standard for labelling Japanese whisky takes effect.

Frequently asked questions

How is Japanese whisky different from Scotch?

Methods are largely the same. Japanese whisky is often described as especially balanced and delicate, shaped by blending many in-house malts, by climate and by casks such as Japanese mizunara oak.

Is all whisky sold as Japanese actually made in Japan?

Not always, historically. Since the 2021 industry standard, members of the Japan Spirits and Liqueurs Makers Association may only label whisky as Japanese if it is distilled, aged at least three years and bottled in Japan. Other products may still exist, so labels are worth checking.

Why is some Japanese whisky hard to find?

Aged whisky requires years of stock. Demand rose faster than distilleries had planned for, so some age-statement whiskies were suspended or are released in limited quantities.

Can you visit Japanese whisky distilleries?

Many distilleries offer tours, museums and tasting rooms, usually requiring advance booking. Details are published on each company's official site.

Related

Sources

  1. 1.Standards for Labeling “Japanese Whisky” (opens in a new tab) — Nikka Whisky (text of the Japan Spirits & Liqueurs Makers Association standard)
  2. 2.The House of Suntory welcomes the implementation of Japanese Whisky labelling standards (opens in a new tab) — Suntory Global Spirits
  3. 3.お酒に関する情報 (opens in a new tab) — 国税庁 (National Tax Agency)

Editorial team · Published: