Arashiyama
嵐山あらしやまArashiyamaRiver, bamboo and hermitages at the foot of Kyoto's western hills
Arashiyama is the scenic district on Kyoto's western edge where the Katsura River leaves the mountains under the Togetsukyō bridge; together with neighbouring Sagano it combines the World Heritage temple Tenryū-ji, the bamboo grove and a string of quiet hermitage temples that Heian nobles once chose for their villas.
Overview
Strictly, Arashiyama is the wooded hill on the south bank of the Katsura River, in Nishikyō Ward; in common use the name covers the whole area around the Togetsukyō bridge, including Saga and Sagano on the north bank in Ukyō Ward. At this point the river, called the Hozu upstream and the Ōi locally, emerges from its gorge onto the Kyoto basin, with Mount Arashiyama and Mount Ogura facing each other across the water.
The landscape has been celebrated since the Heian period, when emperors and aristocrats built villas here, held boating parties and wrote poems on its cherry blossoms and maples; Fujiwara no Teika is said to have compiled the Hyakunin Isshu anthology at his villa on Mount Ogura. Tenryū-ji, founded in 1339 on the site of an imperial villa, is one of the great Zen temples of Kyoto and part of the city's World Heritage property.
North of Tenryū-ji the path through the bamboo grove leads into Sagano, a quieter landscape of small temples – Jōjakkō-ji, Giō-ji, Adashino Nenbutsu-ji – and the preserved village street of Saga-Toriimoto. The area is one of Kyoto's busiest in cherry-blossom and autumn-leaf seasons; early mornings and the outer temples are calmer.
Landmarks
Togetsukyō Bridge
渡月橋TogetsukyōThe 'moon-crossing bridge' over the Katsura River, the symbol of Arashiyama, with the wooded hill behind it.
- 天龍寺Tenryū-ji
Head temple of a Rinzai Zen school, founded in 1339; Musō Soseki's pond garden borrows the view of the Arashiyama hills.
Bamboo grove
竹林の小径Chikurin no KomichiA path between tall stands of bamboo from Tenryū-ji's north gate towards Nonomiya Shrine and Ōkōchi Sansō.
Nonomiya Shrine
野宮神社Nonomiya JinjaSmall shrine with a torii of unbarked wood, where imperial princesses purified themselves before serving at Ise; it appears in the Tale of Genji.
Ōkōchi Sansō
大河内山荘Ōkōchi SansōHillside villa and garden of the film actor Ōkōchi Denjirō, with views over Kyoto.
Jōjakkō-ji
常寂光寺Jōjakkō-jiTemple on the slope of Mount Ogura, known for its maples and small pagoda.
Adashino Nenbutsu-ji
化野念仏寺Adashino Nenbutsu-jiTemple with some 8,000 stone Buddhas and memorial stones gathered from the old burial ground of Adashino.
Daikaku-ji
大覚寺Daikaku-jiFormer imperial villa of Emperor Saga with the Ōsawa Pond, one of Japan's oldest garden ponds and a place of moon-viewing in autumn.
Districts
Arashiyama (south bank)
嵐山ArashiyamaThe hill itself and the riverside in Nishikyō Ward, with Hankyū Arashiyama Station and the Iwatayama monkey park.
Saga
嵯峨SagaThe north bank around Tenryū-ji and the stations, with most shops and restaurants.
Sagano
嵯峨野SaganoThe plain and foothills beyond the bamboo grove, with hermitage temples and fields.
Saga-Toriimoto
嵯峨鳥居本Saga-ToriimotoProtected village street of thatched and tiled houses leading to the torii of Atago Shrine.
History
In the Heian period Saga and Arashiyama were a retreat for the court: Emperor Saga's detached palace became the temple Daikaku-ji in 876, and the Hata clan had earlier built weirs on the Katsura River that made the plain fertile. Adashino, at the far end of Sagano, was a place where the dead were left, commemorated today by thousands of stone Buddhas at Adashino Nenbutsu-ji.
In 1339 the shogun Ashikaga Takauji founded Tenryū-ji to appease the spirit of Emperor Go-Daigo, with the monk Musō Soseki as founding abbot and garden designer. In the early seventeenth century the merchant Suminokura Ryōi opened the Hozu River to boat traffic. Railways arrived in the Meiji era, and the present Togetsukyō bridge was built in 1934. The Saga-Toriimoto street was designated a Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings in 1979.
876
Emperor Saga's former palace is converted into the temple Daikaku-ji.
c. 1235
Fujiwara no Teika is said to compile the Hyakunin Isshu at his Ogura villa.
1339
Ashikaga Takauji founds Tenryū-ji with Musō Soseki as first abbot.
1606
Suminokura Ryōi begins opening the Hozu River to boat traffic.
1934
The present Togetsukyō bridge is completed.
1979
Saga-Toriimoto is designated a Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings.
1994
Tenryū-ji is inscribed on the World Heritage List with the Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto.
Culture
Arashiyama's culture is literary and seasonal: its cherry blossoms and maples have been subjects of waka poetry since the Heian period, and Sagano's temples are settings in the Tale of Genji and the Tale of the Heike. Pleasure boats on the river, cormorant fishing in summer and moon-viewing at Daikaku-ji continue court pastimes. The area draws very large crowds; the bamboo grove is best seen early in the morning.
Festivals
Ukai (cormorant fishing)
鵜飼ukaiOn summer evenings, fishermen with trained cormorants work the river by torchlight in front of the Togetsukyō bridge.
Mifune Matsuri
三船祭Mifune MatsuriOn the third Sunday of May, Kurumazaki Shrine recreates Heian court boating parties with decorated boats, music and poetry on the river.
Sentō Kuyō
千灯供養Sentō KuyōIn late August, candles are lit among the stone Buddhas of Adashino Nenbutsu-ji for the souls of the dead.
Kangetsu no Yūbe
観月の夕べKangetsu no YūbeMoon-viewing on dragon-headed boats on Daikaku-ji's Ōsawa Pond at the autumn full moon.
Food
- 湯豆腐yudōfu
Tofu simmered in kelp broth, served in temple restaurants around Tenryū-ji and Saga.
Shōjin ryōri
精進料理shōjin ryōriBuddhist vegetarian cuisine, served at Tenryū-ji's restaurant.
Ayu
鮎ayuSweetfish from the Katsura and Hozu rivers, grilled with salt in summer.
Warabi-mochi
わらび餅warabi-mochiSoft bracken-starch sweets dusted with roasted soy flour, sold along the main street.
Getting around
- JR Sagano Line (San'in Line) trains from Kyoto Station reach Saga-Arashiyama Station in about fifteen minutes.
- The Hankyū Arashiyama Line serves the south bank, and the Randen tram (Keifuku Arashiyama Line) runs from Shijō-Ōmiya to the heart of Saga.
- The district is walkable; bicycles and rickshaws are common for reaching the outer temples of Sagano.
- The Sagano Romantic Train and boats on the Hozu River link Arashiyama with Kameoka upstream.
Day trips
Boat trip down the gorge from Kameoka to Arashiyama.
The Golden Pavilion, reached by bus across northern Kyoto.
The dry rock garden, on the Randen tram route towards Kitano.
Kyoto's geiko district on the eastern side of the city.
Other cities in the prefecture
Frequently asked questions
Is Arashiyama part of Kyoto city?
Yes. It lies on the western edge of Kyoto city, split between Nishikyō Ward (south of the river) and Ukyō Ward (Saga and Sagano north of it).
When is the bamboo grove least crowded?
Shortly after sunrise; by mid-morning the path is usually busy, especially in spring and autumn.
What is the difference between Arashiyama and Sagano?
Arashiyama refers to the hill and riverside around the Togetsukyō bridge; Sagano is the area of fields and hermitage temples to the north, reached through the bamboo grove.
How long should a visit take?
Half a day covers Tenryū-ji, the bamboo grove and the riverside; a full day allows the Sagano temples, Daikaku-ji or a boat trip through the Hozu gorge.
Related
Sources
- 1.Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto (Kyoto, Uji and Otsu Cities) (opens in a new tab) — UNESCO World Heritage Centre
- 2.京都市情報館 (opens in a new tab) — 京都市
- 3.京都観光Navi (opens in a new tab) — 京都市観光協会
- 4.Japan National Tourism Organization (opens in a new tab) — JNTO