Higashiyama
東山ひがしやまHigashiyamaTemples, pagodas and old lanes along Kyoto's Eastern Mountains
Higashiyama is the historic temple district at the foot of Kyoto's Eastern Mountains, stretching from Kiyomizu-dera and Sanjūsangen-dō in the south through the stone-paved lanes of Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka to Nanzen-ji and, in its wider sense, Ginkaku-ji; it is the densest concentration of temples and old townscape in the city.
Overview
Higashiyama, the 'Eastern Mountains', is the chain of wooded hills that closes the Kyoto basin to the east, and by extension the district along their foot. The name is used in two ways: Higashiyama Ward is an administrative ward east of the Kamo River that includes Gion, Kiyomizu-dera and Sanjūsangen-dō; in the wider cultural sense Higashiyama continues north through Okazaki and Nanzen-ji to Ginkaku-ji, which lie in Sakyō Ward.
The classic walk begins at Kiyomizu-dera, whose wooden stage projects over the hillside, and descends through the stepped lanes of Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka – a protected townscape of wooden shops and teahouses – past the Yasaka Pagoda to Kōdai-ji, the temple founded by the widow of Toyotomi Hideyoshi. From there Nene-no-Michi and Maruyama Park lead to Yasaka Shrine and the enormous gate of Chion-in, head temple of Pure Land Buddhism.
Further north, Okazaki holds the Heian Shrine and Kyoto's museums, Nanzen-ji spreads under the hill with its brick aqueduct of the Lake Biwa Canal, and the Philosopher's Path follows a canal lined with cherry trees to Ginkaku-ji, the Silver Pavilion that gave its name to the Higashiyama culture of the fifteenth century. Kiyomizu-yaki pottery was made in the workshops of Gojōzaka and Chawanzaka below Kiyomizu-dera.
Sights
Landmarks
- 清水寺Kiyomizu-dera
Hillside temple with a wooden stage built without nails, overlooking the city; a National Treasure and World Heritage component.
- 三十三間堂Sanjūsangen-dō
A hall about 120 m long housing 1,001 standing statues of the thousand-armed Kannon.
Yasaka Pagoda (Hōkan-ji)
八坂の塔Yasaka no TōFive-storey pagoda of 1440 rising above the lanes, the emblem of the old townscape.
Kōdai-ji
高台寺Kōdai-jiZen temple of 1606 with Momoyama-period lacquer work, gardens and a bamboo grove.
Chion-in
知恩院Chion-inHead temple of the Jōdo school of Pure Land Buddhism; its Sanmon of 1621 is one of the largest wooden gates in Japan.
Nanzen-ji
南禅寺Nanzen-jiLeading Zen temple with a massive gate, a dry garden and the brick aqueduct of the Lake Biwa Canal.
- 銀閣寺Ginkaku-ji
The Silver Pavilion at the northern end of the Philosopher's Path, centre of the Higashiyama culture.
Heian Shrine
平安神宮Heian JingūShrine of 1895 reproducing part of the Heian palace, with a large vermilion torii and a stroll garden.
Districts
Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka
三年坂・二年坂Sannen-zaka, Ninen-zakaStepped lanes below Kiyomizu-dera with wooden shops, teahouses and pottery.
- 祇園Gion
The geiko district around Yasaka Shrine, within Higashiyama Ward.
Gojōzaka
五条坂Gojō-zakaThe slope to Kiyomizu-dera from the south, historic centre of Kiyomizu-yaki pottery.
Okazaki
岡崎OkazakiCultural quarter with the Heian Shrine, the National Museum of Modern Art and the Kyoto City Kyocera Museum of Art.
Philosopher's Path
哲学の道Tetsugaku no MichiCanal-side path from Nanzen-ji's neighbourhood to Ginkaku-ji, named after the philosopher Nishida Kitarō.
History
The Eastern Mountains were settled by temples from the city's earliest days: Kiyomizu-dera traces its founding to 778, before Kyoto became the capital, and Hōkan-ji's pagoda marks a temple said to date from the sixth century. The slopes were also a burial ground, Toribeno, and the area's temples cared for the dead of the capital.
In the late fifteenth century the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa built his retreat, later Ginkaku-ji, at the northern end; the art, tea and garden culture of his circle is called Higashiyama culture. Toyotomi Hideyoshi's era left Kōdai-ji and the Great Buddha of Hōkō-ji, and the Tokugawa expanded Chion-in. After 1890 the Lake Biwa Canal brought water and power to Okazaki, where the 1895 industrial exhibition and the Heian Shrine created a new cultural quarter.
778
Traditional founding of Kiyomizu-dera.
1164
Sanjūsangen-dō is built for the retired emperor Go-Shirakawa; the present hall dates from 1266.
1482
Ashikaga Yoshimasa begins his Higashiyama villa, later Ginkaku-ji.
1606
Kōdai-ji is founded by Nene, widow of Toyotomi Hideyoshi.
1633
Kiyomizu-dera's main hall and stage are rebuilt in their present form.
1890
The Lake Biwa Canal is completed, with the aqueduct at Nanzen-ji.
1895
Heian Shrine is built in Okazaki for the 1,100th anniversary of the capital.
1976
Sannenzaka is designated a Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings.
Culture
Higashiyama is where Kyoto's religious and artistic traditions are most visible: the Higashiyama culture of Ashikaga Yoshimasa shaped the tea ceremony, ikebana, ink painting and the aesthetic of wabi. Kiyomizu-yaki pottery has been made on the slopes since the Edo period and gives its name to an annual pottery fair. The lanes are among Kyoto's most crowded places; walking early in the morning and respecting temple etiquette make a visit easier for everyone.
Festivals
Gojōzaka Pottery Festival
京都五条坂陶器まつりGojō-zaka Tōki MatsuriStalls of potters and dealers line Gojō-zaka in early August, around the Obon season.
Jidai Matsuri
時代祭Jidai MatsuriOn 22 October, a procession in costumes of every era of Kyoto's history walks from the Imperial Palace to Heian Shrine.
- 節分祭Setsubun-sai
In early February, maiko perform dances and throw beans to drive out evil.
Chion-in New Year bell
除夜の鐘joya no kaneOn New Year's Eve, monks ring Chion-in's great bell, one of the largest in Japan, with a team pulling the beam.
Food
- 湯豆腐yudōfu
Simmered tofu, a speciality of the restaurants around Nanzen-ji.
- 八ッ橋yatsuhashi
Cinnamon-flavoured rice-flour sweets, baked or soft and folded around bean paste, sold along the Kiyomizu slopes.
Shichimi tōgarashi
七味唐辛子shichimi tōgarashiSeven-spice chilli blend, sold by old spice shops on the approach to Kiyomizu-dera.
- 和菓子wagashi
Seasonal sweets and whisked tea in the teahouses of Ninenzaka and Kōdai-ji.
Getting around
- City buses from Kyoto Station serve Gojōzaka and Kiyomizu-michi for Kiyomizu-dera, Higashiyama Yasui for Kōdai-ji, and Ginkakuji-michi for the northern end.
- Keihan Line stations Kiyomizu-Gojō and Gion-Shijō lie on the river; the Tōzai subway line serves Higashiyama and Keage near Nanzen-ji.
- The district is best walked: from Kiyomizu-dera to Gion takes about half an hour, and the Philosopher's Path about the same.
Day trips
Thousands of torii on the hill south of Higashiyama, a short train ride away.
The Tokugawa castle in central Kyoto.
The mountain of Enryaku-ji, reached by cable car from the north-east of the city.
Across the hills by the Keihan line, where the canal water comes from.
Other cities in the prefecture
Frequently asked questions
Is Higashiyama the same as Higashiyama Ward?
Not quite. Higashiyama Ward is an administrative ward including Gion and Kiyomizu-dera; as a sightseeing name, Higashiyama also covers the temples along the hills further north, up to Ginkaku-ji in Sakyō Ward.
What is the classic Higashiyama walk?
From Kiyomizu-dera down Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka, past the Yasaka Pagoda and Kōdai-ji to Maruyama Park and Yasaka Shrine; many continue north via Chion-in and Nanzen-ji to the Philosopher's Path and Ginkaku-ji.
Why is Sannenzaka said to be unlucky?
A popular saying holds that anyone who falls on the slope will die within three years; shops sell gourd charms as protection. The name is more likely linked to prayers for safe childbirth at a nearby temple.
When are the Higashiyama temples least crowded?
Early morning and on weekdays outside the cherry-blossom and autumn-leaf seasons; Kiyomizu-dera opens early, before the tour groups arrive.
Related
Sources
- 1.Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto (Kyoto, Uji and Otsu Cities) (opens in a new tab) — UNESCO World Heritage Centre
- 2.京都市情報館 (opens in a new tab) — 京都市
- 3.京都観光Navi (opens in a new tab) — 京都市観光協会
- 4.Japan National Tourism Organization (opens in a new tab) — JNTO