Food & Drink
Tsukemono
漬物つけものtsukemonoSalt, bran and time: the small dish beside every bowl of rice
Tsukemono are Japanese pickles: vegetables, and sometimes fruit or fish, preserved in salt, rice bran, vinegar, miso, soy sauce or sake lees. A small dish of them accompanies rice and miso soup at almost every traditional meal.
Before refrigeration, pickling was how Japanese households kept vegetables through winter, and it remains one of the pillars of home cooking. The basic meal pattern of rice, soup and side dishes has always included a small plate of pickles, called oshinko or kō no mono, which sharpens the appetite and refreshes the palate between mouthfuls of plain rice.
Japanese pickles range from lightly salted cucumbers ready in an hour to radishes and plums aged for months or years. Many are lactic-fermented, others simply cured in salt or a seasoned medium. Almost every region has its own specialities, often made from a local vegetable, and pickles are a staple souvenir.
Pickling methods
Japanese pickles are classified by the medium in which they are cured. The simplest is salt, which draws water from vegetables and lets lactic bacteria develop. Nukazuke uses a bed of fermented rice bran that is stirred by hand every day; a well-kept nukadoko can be handed down in a family for decades. Other media include miso, soy sauce, vinegar, kōji, and the lees left over from sake brewing.
Pickles also differ in time. Asazuke ('shallow pickles') are lightly cured for hours or a day and stay crisp and fresh. Long-cured pickles such as takuan or umeboshi can be kept for a year or more.
Shiozuke
塩漬けshiozukeSalt pickling, the oldest and most basic method.
Nukazuke
糠漬けnukazukeVegetables buried in fermented rice bran; typically cucumber, aubergine, carrot and daikon.
- 味噌漬けmisozuke
Vegetables, fish or meat cured in miso, giving a savoury, salty depth.
- 粕漬けkasuzuke
Pickled in sake lees; Nara pickles (narazuke) of white melon are the best-known example.
Suzuke
酢漬けsuzukeVinegar pickles, including sweet-sour pickled ginger and rakkyō shallots.
Asazuke
浅漬けasazukeQuick, lightly salted pickles, eaten within a day or two.
Well-known pickles
A few pickles are found all over Japan and appear on everyday tables, in bento boxes and alongside specific dishes: pickled ginger with sushi, red ginger with yakisoba and gyūdon, and the sweet, brown fukujinzuke with curry rice.
- 梅干しumeboshi
Salted and sun-dried ume (Japanese apricot), very sour; often coloured red with shiso leaves. Wakayama Prefecture is the leading producer.
Takuan
沢庵takuanDaikon radish, dried and then pickled in rice bran and salt, bright yellow and crunchy.
- がりgari
Thinly sliced ginger in sweet vinegar, eaten between pieces of sushi.
Beni shoga
紅生姜beni shōgaRed pickled ginger in strips, served with yakisoba, takoyaki and beef bowls.
- 福神漬fukujinzuke
A sweet soy-pickled mix of seven vegetables, the classic partner of curry rice.
- らっきょうrakkyō
Small shallot-like bulbs in sweet vinegar; Tottori's sand dunes are a noted growing area.
Regional pickles
Kyoto is famous for pickles made from its heirloom vegetables (Kyō yasai), and three are often called the city's great pickles: shibazuke, senmaizuke and sugukizuke. Snowy regions of northern and central Japan developed pickles to see them through winter, and many towns sell their local kinds as a regional speciality.
- しば漬けshibazuke
Aubergine and cucumber lactic-fermented with red shiso; associated with Ōhara, north of Kyoto.
- 千枚漬けsenmaizuke
Paper-thin slices of large Shōgoin turnip with kombu and vinegar, a Kyoto winter pickle.
- すぐき漬けsugukizuke
A sour, lactic-fermented turnip from the Kamigamo area of Kyoto.
- 野沢菜漬けnozawanazuke
Pickled leaf stems of nozawana, a turnip green from Nagano Prefecture.
- いぶりがっこiburigakko
Smoked daikon pickled in rice bran, a speciality of Akita Prefecture.
- 奈良漬narazuke
White melon or other vegetables cured for a long time in sake lees; dark brown and slightly alcoholic.
Pickles at the table
Pickles are eaten with rice rather than on their own, and a few slices come with most set meals (teishoku). In kaiseki, the closing course of rice, miso soup and pickles is a fixed part of the sequence. At home, a small bowl of rice finished with pickles and green tea poured over it (ochazuke) is a classic simple meal.
Because many pickles are high in salt, portions are small. Some lactic-fermented pickles have attracted interest as probiotic foods, while salt-reduced versions have become common in shops.
Frequently asked questions
What are Japanese pickles called?
The general term is tsukemono. At the table they are often called oshinko or, more formally, kō no mono.
Why is takuan yellow?
Traditional takuan takes a yellowish colour from drying and long curing in rice bran; many commercial versions are also coloured with gardenia or turmeric.
Are Japanese pickles fermented?
Some are. Nukazuke, sugukizuke, shibazuke and long-cured salt pickles are lactic-fermented, while vinegar pickles and quick asazuke are not fermented in the same way.
How are umeboshi eaten?
Usually one at a time with plain rice, as a filling in onigiri or in a bento. They are very sour and salty, so a small piece goes a long way.
Related
Sources
- 1.うちの郷土料理 (opens in a new tab) — 農林水産省 (Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries)
- 2.Japan National Tourism Organization – Official travel guide (opens in a new tab) — JNTO