Shopping and souvenirs in Japan

Each district has its own character. Ginza is the classic address for department stores, flagship stores of Japanese and international brands, and stationery and craft specialists. Shinjuku and Shibuya combine department stores, fashion buildings and huge electronics stores around their stations; Harajuku's Takeshita-dori caters to youth fashion, while Omotesando is lined with designer architecture.

Akihabara is the centre for electronics, anime, manga and games; Nakano Broadway is a haven for collectors. In the old east of the city, Asakusa's Nakamise-dori sells traditional snacks and souvenirs on the approach to Senso-ji, Ameyoko market in Ueno is loud and cheap, and Kappabashi is the street of kitchenware, knives and the plastic food models seen in restaurant windows.

Osaka's shopping is concentrated in two areas. Umeda in the north has department stores and underground malls linked to the stations; in the south, the covered Shinsaibashi-suji arcade runs towards Namba and Dotonbori, with Den Den Town in Nipponbashi for electronics and anime and Kuromon market for food.

Kyoto is the place for traditional goods: tea and tea utensils, incense, fans, textiles, ceramics and knives, many from shops run by the same family for generations. The Shijo-Kawaramachi area has department stores and covered arcades, and Nishiki Market, the 'kitchen of Kyoto', sells pickles, tofu products, sweets and cooking tools.

Japanese department stores (depāto) grew out of Edo-period kimono merchants and railway companies. Their basement food floors, depachika, are an attraction in themselves, with counters for Japanese sweets, bento, pickles, tea and immaculately wrapped gift boxes; the top floors often hold restaurants. Staff bow as the doors open in the morning, and gift wrapping is taken seriously.

For everyday purchases, convenience stores (konbini) are everywhere, fixed-price 'hyaku-en' shops such as Daiso sell household goods and small gifts, discount chains such as Don Quijote stay open late with everything from cosmetics to snacks, and drugstores are popular for Japanese cosmetics and skincare.

Short-term visitors can buy goods free of Japan's consumption tax at registered stores, which display a 'Japan Tax-free Shop' sign, provided they meet the conditions set by the National Tax Agency and take the goods out of Japan. The passport is needed at the time of purchase. The procedure, minimum purchase amounts and whether the tax is deducted at the till or refunded later are set by law and can change, so the current rules should be checked before shopping.

After a trip, Japanese travellers bring back omiyage for family, friends and colleagues: usually individually wrapped sweets or snacks associated with the place visited, bought in stations, airports and service areas. Many regions are known for a particular speciality, and some are sold only locally, which is part of their appeal.

For visitors, omiyage make good gifts for Japanese hosts and friends at home. Fresh foods such as meat and some fruit may be restricted by import rules in the traveller's home country.

Japan's regions produce a remarkable range of crafts, and the government designates traditional craft products that meet standards of history, materials and handwork. They make lasting souvenirs: a cast-iron kettle, a lacquer bowl, a hand-forged kitchen knife, a piece of porcelain or a length of indigo-dyed cloth. Specialist shops, department-store craft floors and the workshops themselves are the best places to buy, often with the maker's name attached.

Card and mobile payments are accepted in most shops, though small traditional shops and markets may still prefer cash. Purchases are often wrapped with care, and staff may ask whether an item is a gift. Bulky or numerous purchases can be sent to the hotel or the airport by luggage delivery services, and large items such as ceramics can be shipped abroad by many shops.

Before buying knives, food or plants, check the import and carry-on rules: kitchen knives must go in checked baggage, and fresh foods may be restricted on arrival at home.